Gardening the Back to Eden Film Method Saves Time and Money

Hey Gardeners, if you've already heard about the Back to Eden gardening film than you're a step ahead of the game. I fell upon this film while sifting through YouTube videos on gardening. You can watch the Back to Eden Film online for free. It's a documentary about how you can layer any yard, anywhere in the world without tilling the soil, using wood chips, and have the benefits of using less water.

Some people don't want to do the research or don't pay attention to detail which have created critics of the method. This is not just throwing down wood chips and you're done, however it is simple. If you look at the section on How to Grow Your Own Organic Garden and throughout the movie it tells you that your first layer is newspaper (reduce weeds), compost (the free compost from our Orange Country landfill is great stuff), wood chips of various sizes and topped with chicken manure (or in my case we have a rabbit) - makes for a great garden and keeps the moisture in the ground longer, while also reducing the amount of weeds. However, make sure you plant your seeds or transplants in the soil/compost section, not in the wood chips as the roots won't have a solid enough foundation.

I realized I was sort of doing this method by accident. Since I don't have the 'back' to use a rototiller on my community garden plots I have been layering by default. One of the great things about being in a garden community (online or in person) I learned about free compost from our local landfill which has saved me a ton of money from buying soil in bags. In addition, I've been layering with the free hay bales that we get from our annual Fall Festival. The hay breaks down over time and I use them to surround the plots to reduce weeds. In addition, I was using vegetable scraps and rabbit manure for composting but now I give the vegetable scraps to the worms. I have a worm composting bin which makes a great circle-of-life where what I grow in the garden is what we eat, as well as the bunny eats and his 'stuff' goes back to the garden as compost as well as the scraps are fed to the worms and their 'stuff' goes back as worm casting compost. It turns out I've been doing this layering method for years without knowing that there was a movement called the Back to Eden Film method.

After watching this documentary on the Back to Eden gardening I finally realized why my garden did so well even though I was physically unable to manage my plots for nearly three months. I thought I was surely going to return to a lot of back breaking, ground digging work but to my surprise my garden had very little weeds. In addition, I could only depend on the rain that we had for water, which has been very low in our area for several years, yet my vegetables grew very well. I had covered the compost with hay, except where the plants were growing and the weeds were nearly extinct except for some of the areas that were not covered. However, even those parts which had compost that looks like dirt, as the wood chips are well decomposed at the landfill, only had a few weeds. You can follow this link to Back to eden film main site

I'm going to continue the Back to Garden Film method of gardening in my home containers on my patio and have already created some self-watering containers from buckets I got at the Dollar Tree store since they don't get rained on. I hope you'll try this method out and reduce your use of water and maintenance on your home garden. Let me know what you think or if you've used this method in the comments below.

Monica Lehua is a native of Hawaii and now resides in Orlando, Fla. She's taken some of the methods of gardening that she's learned from her family of agriculturalists: farmers and simple home gardeners and tweaked it to fit the central Florida climate. Need more information about muclhing? there are other articles about mulching your garden!

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Starting Your First Organic Vegetable Garden

If spring 2014 marks your first effort at organic vegetable gardening, a little preparation can mean the difference between bounty and wasteland. Many definitions of organic gardening focus on what the organic gardener doesn't do: use synthetic fertilizers. That definition is a little too simplistic, according to Organic Gardening, which says it's equally important to "work in harmony with natural systems and to minimize and continually replenish any resources the garden consumes."

Plant Native
What does that mean, exactly? When planning the garden, take into account the climate and growing conditions. Choose plants that will thrive in the conditions of your garden. This will mean a higher probability of success and less intervention by you.

Mulch and Fertilize
The North Carolina Cooperative Extension notes the importance of continuously improving garden soil by adding compost. This increases the soil's ability to support beneficial microbes and to retain water.

Never confuse composting and fertilizing. Adding organic fertilizer is essential for plant nutrition. Organic gardeners can make their own organic fertilizers using this formula provided by Mother Earth News: combine seed meal, agricultural lime, gypsum, dolomitic lime (or dolomite), kelp meal and bone meal, rock phosphate or high-phosphate guano. If not inclined to make your own, you can buy pre-packaged organic fertilizer.

Avoid GMO Seed
Take care in choosing seed to avoid introducing genetically-modified varieties into your garden. This is particularly important with respect to plants like corn. By 2012, 88 percent of corn grown in the United States was genetically modified, according to PhysOrg. The Non-GMO Sourcebook is a helpful guide to finding non-GMO seed.

Keep Pests at Bay
Perhaps the trickiest aspect of organic gardening is maintaining a chemical-pesticide-free garden. If your garden plot has had pesticides applied even in the distant past, the residues may find their way into your produce, the National Pesticide Information Center warns. The residues may include non-garden applications such as termite control. If you are using composted manure, make sure the manure hails from pesticide-free farms or you may be unknowingly importing pesticides.

Laboratory testing can be expensive, NPIC says, and it suggests doing homework to identify potential past applications of pesticide and being as specific as possible in searching out results.

Should you use organic pesticides in your organic garden? Lou Homs, a graduate student from the University of California at Berkeley, provides a helpful explanation of the benefits and pitfalls of organic pesticides. These pesticides are made from natural sources and not synthetically manufactured. That does not necessarily make them safe, Homs notes. Recent studies show about half of the natural chemicals used in organic pesticides are carcinogenic, the same fault found with nonorganic pesticides.

Gardening without chemical pesticides is possible, according to Harlequin's Gardens. Success in pesticide-free gardening requires a knowledgeable gardener. After choosing the right crops for the conditions and upon nurturing the soil appropriately, the likelihood of pests appearing declines. When bugs do appear, take care to distinguish the harmless from the harmful. Nontoxic horticultural oil can be applied directly to harmful bugs.

Other natural pest control techniques include floating row covers (polyester fabric on frames designed to keep insects off plants), pheromone traps, sticky traps, insecticidal soap, sprays containing the bacterium Bacillus Thuringiensis, or parasitic nematodes.

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5 Clever Eco-Friendly Garden Solutions

Looking for cheap, eco-friendly solutions for common gardening issues? How do you protect plants from unexpected spring storms? Is there a way to plant veggies earlier without a large expensive greenhouse? Wouldn't you love a place to wash your veggies outdoors? Does rainwater diversion have to be so expensive? Is there an easy way to shade vegetables without building a complicated permanent structure? How can you save yourself work when raking and saving leaves for compost? These simple, yet clever, eco-friendly solutions can help.

Instant recycled greenhouses

Are you one of those people who saves empty glass jars? You hate to throw them away. You feel they could be re-used for something, but you're not sure what. How about using glass jars as tiny greenhouses for your early spring plantings? Simply plant your seed, water, then place the inverted jar over the planting. Push the jar neck slightly into the ground for stability. Not only does this protect the seedling, it keeps it conducts heat and conserves water. Evaporating water will collect and fall back onto the plant, much like it does in a terrarium.

Re-purposed washing station

When we moved into our home, the owners had left behind a laundry sink. It wasn't hooked up. We had no use for it indoors. Being the green goddess that I am, I quickly came up with a fantastic idea. We already had a multi-hose connecter on our backyard spigot. By taking a short piece of hose and running it to the old laundry sink, I made an outdoor sink for washing veggies, hands or whatever other nasty dirt I didn't want to bring in the house.

Bonus tip: I keep a re-purposed mesh veggie bag (filled with soap slivers and knotted) at the sink. The bag makes for efficient scrubbing power. Since we use eco-friendly homemade soap, water from washing can drain right back into the garden, via another hose attached to the drain.

Simple rain water diversion

No rain barrels allowed in your city? No problem. Using rainwater in the garden doesn't have to be complicated. We've found that old ridged plastic sewer pipe fits wonderfully over gutter spouts. By simply running the pipe to the garden, we're able to give it a good dousing every time it rains. When the garden has had enough, we direct the flow into an old kiddie pool for storage.

Portable shade

You may not be able to afford a pop up shade or complicated shade cloth construction for your shade loving plants. No worries. Simply use four stakes and an old sheet. Staple the sheet to the stakes at the corners. When your plants need shade, plunge the stakes into the ground around them. When the sun goes down, just fold the sheet up with the stakes inside for easy storage.

Easy leaf collection

Don't you hate trying to stuff leaves into bags for later use? If you have a compost pile, why are you bagging the leaves up? Doesn't it seem silly to bag them, just to toss them in the pile? Of course it is. Here's a better idea. Lay your portable shade cloth flat on the ground. Use it to collect raked leaves. Pick it up by the corner stakes. Carry the whole thing to the compost pile. Dump it into the pile. It's much easier than stuffing those bags. Plus, you'll cut down on plastic use.

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Preparing for Your First Organic Garden: Soil Considerations

So you've decided to try your hand at organic gardening. While it will be hard work and time consuming, the rewards far exceed the cost. It pays however to enter into the art and practice of organic gardening with an open and informed mind.

One of the first things to consider when starting your organic garden is the characteristics of your soil. This will help determine which plants will thrive in your garden, how you need to care for them, and what you need to do to alter the environment to create the best garden you can. Thankfully, most everything you need to know can be described in four characteristics: drainage, existing vegetation, color and texture. This article will give you an introduction to these characteristics, and what they can mean for you and your garden.

Drainage

A soil's drainage is it's ability to move water through the soil, and away from the plants in question. Most plants require a well drained soil. While there are some exceptions, most plants do not do well in a situation where their roots are constantly inundated or flooded with water. Therefore it's important to determine the drainage rate of the soil in your proposed garden. The most effective way to do this requires a shovel, a watch, and three buckets of water. Start by digging a hole in your garden, approximately 1 foot deep. Take the first bucket of water and fill the whole, and record how long it takes for the water to completely drain from the hole. Wait five minutes and fill the pit again with the second and third buckets, recording the time it takes for complete drainage in both the second and third case. Then average the results.

The faster the drainage rate, the more well drained your soil is. If the rate is between 0 and 4 minutes, the soil is considered to be excessively well drained and plants may require more frequent watering. If it takes between 5 and 15 minutes to drain, it's still considered to be well drained, and most plants will thrive in this environment. Soils that take between 16 and 30 minutes to drain are considered moderately well drained, and still may be considered good choice for a number of different vegetation. If the soil takes longer than 30 minutes to drain it is most likely bordering on a poorly drained soil, and some alterations may be needed to encourage proper drainage.

Existing Vegetation

It is important to remember that your garden is a complex system of interactions between the plants, animals, soil, water and air. Look at the area that you want to use for your garden now. What is thriving there? Is it primarily grass? Or does it have a robust selection of weeds? Also, you'll need to dig down and look at the first six inches of soil. What kinds of bugs and worms do you find there? Are the roots strong and pliable? These are both signs of a healthy and vibrant soil.

Soil Color

Another great indicator of the quality of your soil is its color. In fact, the color can indicate how well its drained, its organic content, and even it's overall chemistry. If your soil is black, dark brown or a dark red, that indicates that the soil is well drained and has a relatively high organic content. If the soil is blue green or gray that is usually a sign that the soil is poorly drained and may have an anaerobic chemistry. Finally if the soil color is primarily yellow, the soil is probably very poorly drained. Also be a look out for mottling and streaking in the soil-- that may be an indication of seasonal drainage problems.

Soil Texture

Finally take a look at the texture of the soil. The texture of the soil can give you an indication of the soil type, it's overall drainage. For the most part, soil texture can be defined by three different extremes - sandy silty and clayey. What's more, the soil texture can be easily determined simply by picking up a handful of soil.

Start by running your soil between your fingers. Does it feel gritty to the touch? Then it's primary composition will be sand. A smooth feeling is indicative of silt, and clay has a slightly sticky texture. Next is the ball squeeze test. Take a small amount of soil, moisten it, and roll it into a small ball. Apply some pressure. If it breaks apart with a slight pressure it has a loamy or sandy texture. If it stays together but changes its shape easily than it has more silt than anything else. Finally if the soil holds it's shape with even moderate pressure it probably has more clay in it than anything else.

While it's not the only thing to consider when putting together your organic garden, understanding the characteristics of your soil is probably the first step in bringing out the best in your new organic garden.

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Planning and Preparing Your Organic Garden

Organic Gardening for Beginners

Tools That You Will Need:

There are a few basic tools that everyone needs to have in order to keep a healthy garden. These include a pointed shovel, fork, garden rake, cultivator, garden hoe, trowel, and a pair of shears or garden snips. (The fork is not absolutely necessary and can be replaced with the shovel or the rake in most cases.) Good tools can be purchased at a local hardware store for around five to ten dollars apiece. Expect to spend anywhere from twenty five to thirty dollars for a complete set of necessary tools. Some optional tools include a wheelbarrow, push mower, flathead shovel or spade, flower pots, and a compost tumbler. For organic gardening, you will need a compost pile or composter. 

Caring for Your Garden Tools:

Unless they are cared for properly, tools will not last through even one season. Tool care is simple and easy to follow. First, and most importantly, NEVER leave tools outside after using them. Sun and moisture will cause the wood to warp, crack, and loosen. When the wood dries out too much and becomes loose, the head of the tool will not stay on and the tool becomes useless and will have to be thrown away. Keep all tools inside a shed or garage to protect them from the elements. Secondly, keep your tools clean and dry when you are not using them. Dirt and water will cause them to rust. If you have tools that require sharpening, buy a sharpener and keep it in storage where you keep your tools.

When to Begin:

Gardens are usually begun in spring, but some gardens can be begun in the fall. Begin planning your garden during the winter. Seeds should be started indoors around six weeks before the last spring frost. Find a warm place to start your seeds where they can get plenty of sunlight after germination. In our home, we have a small atrium attached to the house. A garden shed with windows that is protected from freezing will also work. If you do not have an area that is warm with plenty of light, you can grow them in a garage with a grow light which can be purchased at a local hardware store. Seed packets should state when you need to begin your seeds and how you should go about doing so.

Will You Need a Greenhouse?

Greenhouses are useful, but not necessary. Also called hothouses, these structures help keep plants warm out-of-doors before the planting season begins. Sunlight comes into the greenhouse through the walls and ceiling and remains inside the greenhouse as heat. You can build your own greenhouse with a few simple tools and supplies. Instructions for building a large passive greenhouse can be built here. For a simpler greenhouse, purchase some heavy chicken wire and plastic sheeting. Bend the wire over your plants in a a half-circle over your plants so that it creates a dome. You can then lay the plastic sheeting over your wire for protection. tie the plastic to the wire with string and bring it around and down to close off the ends. Secure the greenhouse to the ground with stakes. You can pull the stakes up and lift the cover for watering, or you can run a soaker hose through the covered garden and turn it off and on when watering is needed.

Choosing Your Crops:

The most important thing about choosing which crops you will grow is location. Obviously, if you live in Alaska, you won't be able to have a full harvest of watermelons. First, decide all of the plants you would like to grow and make a list. When choosing your seeds, make a note of the weather conditions each plant prefers. If it does not coincide with your region, you will have to cross it off of your list. Some plants have different varieties that grow in different types of weather, so check out each type before you choose. Some plants need lots of water and should not be grown in dry areas. Other plants require cool weather and should not be grown where the summers are too hot for them to grow. As you look up the climatic conditions for each variety, make a note to the side of each strain you can grow in your garden.

If this is your first garden, you should be careful not to grow any plants which require too much care and are not good for beginners. Asparagus is one such plant. Asparagus takes three years to mature and become established. This is an example of a plant that is best left to the experienced gardener. Some good plants for the first-time gardener include pumpkins, watermelon, carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cucumber, potatoes, okra, beans, peas, corn, leeks, broccoli, cauliflower, celery, squash, turnips, beets, and radishes. There are also a variety of other plants that are suitable for a first-time garden. Herbs are almost always easy to grow and are very good for first-time gardeners.

Where to Plant?

Location is one of the most important factors in having a successful garden. You must choose a place that gets full sun at least 2/3 of the day and has good drainage. For anyone not familiar with gardening, good drainage means that it is on a hill or on flat level ground. Don't plant in a ditch or at the bottom of a hill or anywhere water drains or will collect. Too much water can drown a plant. If you are planting next to a house, you will need to plant away from the edge of the roof or install a rain gutter over the area where the roof slants down over the garden. Rainwater pouring off of a roof will damage plants and cause excessive runoff which will wash away your topsoil, exposing roots and killing your garden plants (and I can say this from personal experience).

Try to grow your garden as far from any trees as possible. Trees will compete with garden plants for water and can sometimes create too much shade, not to mention covering the garden in leaves in autumn. Plant the garden near the house so that it will be accessible to water and easy to take care of. Gardening should not mean taking a trip out across the pasture. Think about crucial elements when planting. Is it too near the composter? Insects that feed on compost would also love to feed on your garden plants. Is it near the garage? That might make it easier when toting tools and supplies back and forth.

Planning the Garden:

The beginning gardener should know how much room a garden takes up. While planning the size of the garden, you will need to assume that you can plant about 1 1/2 plants per square foot. Carrots and smaller root crops can be planted three per square foot. Spreading plants such as squash, watermelon, pumpkin, and cucumber need an extra square foot or two for growth. If you plan on growing climbing plants such as beans or peas, you will need a wall to grow them against. A trellis can be built if there is no wall. An eight by eight foot garden can grow anywhere from sixty to seventy plants which is quite a lot. While planting, be careful not to plant plants too far apart or too close together. Taller plants should be planted in the back where they will not block sunlight from the rest of the garden. Medium plants go in the middle and short plants in the front, etc.

Heirloom Seeds:

It is important to purchase heirloom quality seeds when buying seeds for your garden. Heirloom quality means that the seeds are not hybrids, have not been chemically treated, and have not been genetically engineered in any way. Heirloom seeds are seeds from plants that have been grown for hundreds of years and are chosen because they are healthy, grow best, and taste the best. Unlike manufactured seeds, heirloom seeds are not produced to make more fruits than the plant can sustain without chemical fertilizers, and have not been irradiated to make them sterile so you can't grow the seeds that will be produced by the plants you will be growing. Heirloom seeds produce healthy plants that provide lots of vitamins and minerals and are the best tasting. Always opt for heirloom quality seeds when purchasing or you may have to buy new seeds every season.

Info on Companion Planting:

Companion planting means planting different varieties of plants together in order to protect them from pests. There are different ways you can use companion planting. First, it is important to mix the crops together in the garden. Try not to plant more than four or five of one type together. Plants that are grown all together spread disease and pests easily. Many inflictions tend to favor a particular plant and will have a hard time spreading to the other plants if there are other types of vegetation between them. In nature, plants are mixed together, making it more difficult for insects to find the plants they prefer. Another type of companion planting uses plants to deter insects. Marigolds, garlic, and mints are perfect for keeping plants out of the garden. Plant these plants around the perimeter and throughout the garden. I plant lots of them around plants that are particularly prone to insects. Marigolds are the best and are very easy to grow. Wormwood keeps away pests well, but is very poisonous and should not be grown around children or household pets.

A third type of companion planting is done by planting together plants which complement each other. Complementing plants deter insects from each other and also add nutrients to the soil that the other needs. 

Below is a list of companion plants:

Cabbage - Plant mint and nastrium to keep away cabbage moth and improve soil.

Corn - Lamb's Quarters.

Fruit Trees - Plant Nastrium to keep away pests.

Radish - Plant Nastrium.

Raspberries - Plant Garlic to keep it in good health and keep away pests.

Roses - Plant Garlic to keep it in good health and keep away pests.

Tomato - Plant Basil, Mint, and Dill to keep away various pests.

The fourth type of companion planting is using plants as a trap. The bait plant is planted near other plants to lure insects. These plants can be pulled up and the insects destroyed. Lamb's Quarters and Nastrium are good plants to use as lure plants as they attracts aphids.

Digging Up Your Garden:

By now you should already have chosen where you want to plant your garden. To get the soil started, you will need a shovel. Mark off the boundaries of the garden with a garden hose or with stakes with string tied between them. Using the shovel, dig down as deep as it will go and then pull the shovel handle back to pull the soil up. Move the shovel over and dig another spot. Keep doing this until all of the soil in the garden has been dug up. It should be a bit clumpy. Don't worry about removing any grass.

Next, you will need the rake or the cultivator. I rake up the soil the best I can so that it is broken up into smaller pieces. If you have a tiller, this will work even better. I prefer to do all of the work by hand. Remove any rocks you find. Rocks will ruin the growth of your root crops such as carrots, onions, potatoes, leeks, and radishes. If you have lots of very large rocks, they can be used to line the edges of the garden. If you are having trouble tilling because the soil is too hard, use a shovel to break up the large pieces at first. Areas with clay soil, like where we live, tend to be harder to till. You may want to try digging two to three days after it rains as the soil will be softer. Do not dig up muddy soil. This prevents the soil from aerating and is bad for both plants and earthworms.

Preparing the Soil:

Garden soil must be rich in nutrients. You will need compost and manure when treating your garden. I buy about 4 bags of compost and two bags of cow manure for every 64 square feet (8x8 feet) of garden. Bags of compost and manure cost between one and two dollars each at the garden store. If you make your own compost, you will not need to buy compost. If you keep animals, chicken, goat, and horse manure can be used instead of cow manure. Chicken manure can burn plants, so only use about four cups of chicken manure for each 64 square feet. Do not use manure from meat-eating animals such as cats, dogs, and humans. If you have very sandy soil, you may need an extra bag or two of compost. Spread these out evenly over the soil and rake them in with your garden rake and your hoe. A tiller can also be used. Do not water the garden until you have planted your seedlings.

The garden will need some kind of edging to keep the outside plants from creeping over the borders. Edging will save you a lot of time in the long run, so it is best to get it put in early. You can make a fancy border out of logs, bricks or stone. If you need a cheap alternative, however, garden stores and hardware stores sell metal edging for about a dollar per twenty feet.

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What Is Sustainable Gardening?

The meaning of sustainable gardening often confuses people, who do not have a garden. They think that when a person has a sustainable garden it means that they grow enough food to sustain them and their family throughout the year, without relying on grocery store items. I can somewhat understand their confusion because according to Webster.com the word sustain means to supply with substance or nourish. This same meaning can apply to sustainable gardens. Certain factors and elements supply substance and nourishment to a garden in order for it to survive, with little effort provided from a gardener.

Sustainable gardens rely on things such as soil, fertilizer, water, and pesticides to produce and maintain healthy plants and vegetables. When a gardener has a perfect balance of these factors, very little work is needed to maintain the garden.

Soil

Poor producing vegetable and other garden plants can be attributed to poor soil. An unbalanced pH level, too many weeds, poor drainage, and nutrient deficient soil not only leads to plant problems but also will cause the gardener a lot of work just trying to keep the plants healthy. A gardener should have their garden soil tested each year and add soil amendments as needed to rectify the pH balance in the soil and nutrient content. Adding organic rich compost will also help to enrich the soil.

Weeds

No one likes to pull weeds, so keep them at a minimum by using weed barriers such as mulch or plastic. Consider planting in raised beds with graveled walkways. Mulch will help prevent water runoff and acts as a barrier to water evaporation. It also helps to keep the soil temperature from fluctuating, reducing the chances of rot damage. Over time, mulch will break down and added valuable nutrients to the soil. Fewer weeds will help eliminate pests, reducing the need for the use of pesticides. Plants will not have to compete with weeds for water if there are fewer weeds.

Water

Although having an adequate supply of water is an important requirement for a sustainable garden, water drainage must also be considered. Water saturation is an easy and quick way to kill healthy, producing plants.

Pesticides

Healthy soil and weed elimination are great ways to keep pests at bay. Another easy fix for unwanted bugs is companion planting. Many bugs are naturally repelled by specific plants. Doing a little research to find out which plants repel which bugs and then planting those plants can save a gardener time and money, as well as having chemical free produce.

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Organic Gardening 101

A Guide to Someone Interested in Organic Gardening

Spring is around the corner, and now is the time to start planning your garden. Planting a garden can be a very rewarding activity. Not only do you get off your butt and out of the house, you get some exercise and you get to appreciate the natural beauty of growing your own food. You get to witness the various stages of plant growth. At the end, you have the reward of wonderful tasting food, which is not only better quality than you can get at the supermarket, but even perhaps better for you. You know what has gone into your food and you won't have to worry about toxic chemicals being absorbed into your body.

I am not a typical green, organic, Prius driving, mantra chanting, granola eater. I drive an SUV, own guns and use Roundup on pesky weeds in the front yard. I do, however, advocate organic methods when it comes to growing your own food.

Benefits can be gained through organic food gardening. Your food will taste better. You aren't using super high concentrations of nitrogen to accelerate plant growth beyond natural ability. Your garden will thrive on an organic diet, as the beneficial bacteria and insects that complete the ecosystem that nature built, will not be killed off.

Organic gardens cost much less: when you have your natural ecosystem in place it requires less maintenance. You're not always out there putting out chemicals trying to keep things in balance. You're using compost rather than expensive fertilizers. These fertilizers are needed more and more as your growing seasons of non organic gardening depletes natural nutrients, and thus are not sustainable.

The best part about Organic Gardening is that is it healthier. You do not risk putting pesticides or synthetic fertilizers into your body.

If I have convinced you that organic gardening is the way to go, I encourage you to do more research on this, and find the best methods that suite your particular area. The following is a description of what I do to raise a wonderful, high yield, organic garden.

I have a 25 by 25 foot garden space. Every year, production increases as the soil gets better and better.

I start off this time of year by combing through seed catalogs to see if there is anything I am interesting in growing that wouldn't be available at a local nursery. There are thousands of esoteric items not available as seedlings. I recommend Territorial Seed Company out of Oregon.

There are many who proclaim a no-till garden is the only way to go. They argue that not tilling the garden allows your underground eco-system to fully develop. If you are interested, I suggest you research. I am too lazy myself to go through this process. Every winter, in mid February, I use a propane torch to burn the weeds and remaining plant life away. I also believe this can kill harmful plant pests, such as insect eggs and various plant diseases.

Once my garden is charred, I throw on my compost and an organic mixture of fertilizers (mentioned at end of article) and till them in with my roto-tiller.

For the seeds I am interested in, I try to get them by February and sprout them six to eight weeks before planting. Here in Portland, Oregon, I plant mid May, so March 1^st is the time for me to plant the seeds. I use grow lights and seed trays with warmers. A greenhouse may be used.

In early May, I select my plants from the nursery. I choose these instead of seeds because they have such a high success rate. If you pay good money for large, healthy stock from a reputable nursery, you will have the best results.

Before planting, I am sure to lay out my rows of soaker hose. A soaker hose not only uses much less water (up to 70%), it delivers water much deeper into the roots where it is needed. You will actually find higher production using soaker hoses rather than broadcast watering, and much lower water bills. Soaker hoses look like black garden hoses with pores, where the water sweats through.

Be sure to water your garden well, but over watering can cause tomatoes to crack. During the peak of summer I usually turn the soaker hoses on every other day for a half hour. If you see your leaves wilt, you will need to water more.

Corn is a great garden vegetable to grow. It does take more resources, however. You will need to heavily water corn nearly every day, and you will need to heavily fertilize. In addition to your organic mixture in your soil, for corn you will need to apply fish emulsion, or fish fertilizer weekly for best results.

Home grown corn is very different from supermarket purchased corn. The sugars in corn start to break down into starch the second it is harvested. If you grow your own corn, it is best to get your water boiling for cooking the corn, and once it has reached the boil, pick your corn. The less the time the corn spends off the stalk before cooking, the better. You will be amazed at the quality of your homegrown corn; you'll never want to buy corn again.

Corn can be hard for the home gardener, often because home gardeners fail to fertilize or water sufficiently as mentioned previously. Also, the seed packages will tell you to not soak the corn kernels before planting. This is because if you were to put a soaked kernel into a dry ground, it will fail. If you soak the kernels in water, however, and then plant them after 24 hours of soaking into a moist soil, you will have a good jump start on the growing. I soak my kernels, and usually get 12 foot stalks (depending on variety.).

Roma tomatoes are great to grow, as they are easily canned and can be used year around and made into sauce. There are also many more tomatoes to experiment with. There are literally hundreds of varieties. Some great for sandwiches, some great for salsas, and some not only taste wonderful, but are very unique and beautiful looking. I would encourage one to try several varieties of heirloom tomatoes, and some hybrids. Did you know that you can grow black or white tomatoes?

Once you plant tomatoes put your tomato cages up around the plant if they are vine type tomatoes. Some tomatoes grow along the ground and a cage will not make any difference.

Other crops I have huge success with are beans. I plant bush beans and poll beans along my garden fencing. Beans are another wonderful addition to your dinner table. A great characteristic of beans is that they don't take too long to mature and they produce over a period of several weeks. That means that while you are waiting all summer for potatoes, at least you'll have am ample supply of beans. Beans, however, do not like excess fertilizer. While you would fertilize all your other vegetables with an application of fish emulsion every two to three weeks, you won't want to apply supplemental fertilizer to your bean crop at all. Your initial soil amendments will be enough. If you supply your beans with too much nitrogen, they will grow really thin and too fast. Beans are nitrogen fixing, meaning that the roots actually supply nitrogen into the soil.

Carrots are also a great crop to plant. You must be sure that your soil is very lose with plenty of sand so your carrots can grow.

Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage are known as cold weather crops. They are best planted later in the summer and harvested in the cool fall weather. Shade is also a good idea for these crops. Follow all planting instructions that come with your seeds or plants.

If you are like me and love garlic, you are already too late. I am sorry to inform you. Garlic can be started with the same soil preparations as your vegetable garden, but must be started in the fall, usually around Halloween and no later than Thanks Giving. Bulb need a cold shock. Once planted in the fall, garlic bulbs can be harvested in early to mid summer.

Weeding is a challenge with organic gardening. Since you will not be using herbicides, you will need to manually pull rogue weeds. This is necessary, as weeds can choke out your plants, and starve them of water and nutrients. Weeding can be minimized with the use of the before mentioned soaker hoses, as water will be very localized. Mulch can also be used between rows to smother weeds. Otherwise weeds can be easily contained by constant upkeep. Eliminating small weeds before they have a chance to grow large roots is much easier.

Organic Fertilizer Mix:

I learned about this mix from an article in Mother Earth News. This article was titled: "A Better Way to Fertilize Your Garden" by Steve Solomon. This is the recipe:

4 parts cotton seed meal

¼ part agriculture lime, finely ground

¼ part gypsum

½ part dolomitic lime

1 part bone meal

½ part kelp meal

Mix these thoroughly. You can obtain these at your local farm or feed store. In Portland, I can get all these items at Portland Concentrates. Use 4 quarts mixture per 100 square feet.

Good luck with your organic garden. It can be hard work, but trust me, it is very rewarding. Once you try gardening, you will probably look forward to every summer, filled with garden delight.

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Natural Organic Garden Pest Control

It is spring once again and it is time to prepare your lovely garden. Spring is also the time when pests are lurking about. Chemical based pesticides and other harmful agents can definitely get rid of the pests, however, they will also kill off your plants. Organic pest control is the best way to go in order to ensure a healthy safe garden. This article will introduce you to some of nature's most helpful pest controls.

Biological Insect Control: There are many beneficial parasites and predators that are available to help you get rid of the unwanted pests that may be lurking around your garden. Naturals controls may already be in your garden, however, their numbers may be too small to concur all of the pests in your garden. You can commercially buy some of these natural controls or if you are fortunate, you may have just enough that naturally occur.

Flowers are important to have in your garden because many of the natural predators require nectar, water, and pollen. Flowers provide your predators with the attractions they will need. You should have a varied source of flowers that will bloom throughout the year. If mosquitoes are a problem in your garden, you can simply place a small briquette of Bti or Bti spray in a flowerpot next to the garden in order to help to control your mosquito problem.

Toads or frogs also are great predators when it comes to bugs. You can place them in an inverted clay flowerpot with a large hole in the rim. You can place the flowerpot in the shade near a water hole. The frog will enjoy all of the delicious bugs it gets to eat and you will love the pest control.

Braconids work as a natural predator wonderfully. These small wasps sting large pest caterpillars like tomato hornworms. They sting the caterpillar at the same time they are laying their eggs into the pest. When the eggs hatch and braconid larvae develop inside of the living caterpillar, the larvae will begin to eat through the caterpillar's skin. They immediately begin to spin cocoons that resemble small rice grains. The caterpillar is still alive at this point, however, it will eventually die. The adult wasps will soon hatch and attack other caterpillars.

Commercially Available Organisms: These types of organisms are kinds that can be bought in order to control garden pests organically.

Trichogramma are extremely small insects that sting pests eggs and then lays their own eggs inside of them. You can buy them on cards of about 400 parasititized eggs. When the trichogramma adults emerge from the eggs they will be ready to start their life cycle. You can make a trichogramma release stand for your garden out of a one-foot state driven a few inches into the ground. Halfway up the stake, apply a two inch band of petroleum jelly all around to keep ants away from the eggs. You can then staple the card with trichogramma to the side of the stake near the top. In order to protect the card from rain, staple a three-inch cardboard roof at the top of the stake. Many of the parasites will fly away within three days, however, there are late starters. You should lightly water the garden for about two weeks after the release to ensure survival. You can loose many of the trichogramma in hot or dry weather because they are best suited for humid and rainy weather. You should release the parasites every spring because their population decreases during the winter season.

Lacewings are net-winged, pale green insects that fly like butterflies. These natural controllers and their larvae are perfect predators to pests.

Ladybugs and their larvae are excellent predators of aphids and other pests and their eggs. You should provide the ladybugs with food called "wheast" in order to get them to remain in your garden. Wheast is usually available when you buy ladybugs, however, you can easily obtain the recipe for the concoction.

I hope that God willing this article will help you have a safe and beautiful gardening experience.

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Natural Techniques to Keep Pests Out of Your Garden

Keeping pests- insects, pets, wild animals- out of your garden can be hard work, especially if you don't want to use harsh, expensive insecticides. There are plenty of no-fuss solutions that can often be found in your cupboards. When facing an invasion, try some of these low-key natural gardening tips before reaching for an abrasive chemical.

Cats:

Cats often like to use gardens as their own personal playgrounds and/or litter boxes. For a non-chemical approach, try planting some catnip in special area just for them. Or plant a Ruta graveolens, commonly known as "rue" or "herb-of-grace". Dried rue is a great pest repellent, so this is an excellent plant to have on hand. This pretty plant has a unique odor that is a universal deterrent to cats. Black or cayenne pepper, mothball flakes, and borax soap can also be sprinkled around the garden to help keep cats out.

If you want to keep cats from using your garden as a litter box, try using chicken fertilizer or orange peels and coffee grounds worked into the top layer of soil. For an inexpensive, chemical approach mix ¼ cup shampoo, ¼ cup of disinfectant (such as Lysol© ) with two gallons warm water and spray over the area.

Another good idea is to cover newly planted beds with chicken wire so the kitties cannot dig them up. Use this method with one or more of the others and your cat problem should be solved!

Dogs:

Man's best friend can often be quite a nuisance in the garden! There are several commercial repellents available on the market, and the majority of them use the chemical components of moth balls or a citric base- ingredients you probably have at home. To make your own chemical dog repellent, mix moth crystals OR dried/crushed lemon or grapefruit rind mixed equally with rue (see cat section) and chili powder.

For something a little stronger, try this cayenne pepper spray: 2 tbs. hot sauce, 2 teaspoon. Cayenne pepper, 1 onion (chopped), 1 whole garlic (crushed), 1 quart of boiling water. Allow to steep 3-5 hours, and then use in problem areas.

Ants:

Make your own ant bait with 1 tbsp of yeast, 2 tbsp of sugar and 1 pint of water. Spread onto cardboard and place in hot spots around your yard. You can also place piles of grits or corn meal in and around the ant hills. Once eaten, the food expands inside the ant- not very nice, but it's quick and effecitive. Mint is also a good natural deterrent, making it a great addition to any garden.

Snails/Slugs:

If you're being invaded by slugs, it is probably because you water in the evening- slugs are most active at night and the love water. Just avoid watering in the evening, and it will cut the slug assault in half.

The quickest method of dealing with slugs is to sprinkle them with salt- a bit cruel, but it works. Beer traps also work well: bury a shallow, wide-mouthed jar up to it's neck near the garden. The slugs will crawl in and drown. There are also things you can use right in the garden to deter slugs, such as seaweed, lava rock, and coffee grounds. Seaweed is great for the soil and is a natural slug repellent- pile 3-5 inches around plants or perimeter of garden. It is very salty, so make sure the seaweed is not in direct contact with plant stems.

Rabbits and Mice:

Rabbits can quickly destroy a gardener's hard work, and mice can be quite a problem in vegetable gardens. Try mixing 5 tbs. of cayenne pepper (or use a bottle of hot pepper sauce) with a gallon of water and 1 tsp. of dishwashing detergent. Spray plants thoroughly. Mothballs also work great- place in an old butter tub, poke holes in lid, and place under plants around garden. You could even bury the tubs and cover lightly with dirt to keep kids and pets out.

Deer:

Deer will eat just about anything- plants, veggies, they like it all. While there are a few plants deer won't ear, it often varies from area to area. The best bet is deter the animals from the garden in the first place. The most obvious choice is a fence- make sure it extends partly underground and doesn't have gaps larger than six inches. Believe it or not, some deer can climb fences- so a tall, all-around fence is the best solution.

There are several natural deer deterrents, with the effectiveness varying on how quickly the deer in your area adjust to them. Try one or two techniques at a time and be prepared to get creative! Some frequent items used: mothballs, hair (human), dead fish heads, garlic, blood meal, soap, and fabric softener. Hang in bags of cheesecloth (or old pantyhose) around the garden. Lights, sprinklers, noisemakers, and flags can also be used. If all else fails, try planting some deer-favorites (azalea, daylily, tulip, beans, lettuce, etc.) in another, smaller area just for the deer.

As you can see, there are plenty of save, effective pest-control methods that can be made with little money or skill. While your garden will never be completely pest-proof, using these old-fashioned, no-tech approaches can make your garden a little less inviting to predators!

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Selecting Garden Mulch

Is Organic Mulch Right for Your Garden?

Most gardeners know that applying mulch around the landscape can provide numerous benefits to your garden plants. Not only can this be an attractive addition to the garden, but adding mulch can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend on routine maintenance. By blocking out light, mulch suffocates weeds; thus, knocking out your weeding chores. Mulch retains moisture as well, limiting the need for constant watering. During periods of heavy rain, mulch can help prevent soil erosion by keeping the soil firmly in place rather than allowing it to wash away. In this same respect, mulch aids in the prevention of soil splashing onto plants. Mulch helps to keep your plants cool during those hot spells and insulates plants in the cold months of winter. Best of all, organic mulches, such as bark or pine needles, can also improve the soil. As these types of mulches begin to break down, nutrients are slowly added to the soil, encouraging healthier plant growth and even beneficial insects, like earthworms.

There are, however, downsides to mulches. Fortunately, the good far outweighs the bad. Unwanted garden pests, such as slugs or snails, can sometime hide beneath mulch. Eventually, these creatures will make their way to your plants, where they may cause considerable damage. Moisture-loving diseases can also be spawned by some types of organic mulch, especially when it's placed too close to the plants. Therefore, it is always better to keep all types of mulch at least 6 inches from the plant itself. Another downside to mulch is color. Light-colored mulches are not as effective in warming the soil; however, dark-colored mulching, such as black plastic, has a tendency to get too hot, resulting in possible burning of the plants' roots.

When you are choosing mulch for your garden, it is generally dependent on the type of garden you have as well as its surroundings. Your mulch should not only complement the garden design but also the surrounding landscape and hardscape (home exterior, walkways, patios, etc.). You should also consider how your mulch will be used in the garden. For instance, if you have a sloped area in your gardening area, you might want to consider using some shredded bark here. Not only will it look attractive but will also help in preventing soil from washing out. If you're looking for something strictly for visual impact, consider attractive mulch such as bark chips, cocoa hulls, or pebbles. In areas that will not be easily viewed by others, choose mulching types like newspaper, grass clippings, or plastic.

Determine the size of the area you want to cover well before you obtain your mulch. Different areas might consist of different types of mulching material so the amount you need will vary. You should also note the availability of particular mulches within your area. For instance, some types of mulch, such as oyster shells, may be limited to only certain places. Therefore, you may incur additional costs for these types of mulches if you want to have them shipped to your area.

Generally, organic mulches are preferred. These types of mulches break down over a period of time, adding nutrients to the soil. The only downside to organic mulches is the fact that they must be replenished each year, usually in the spring. They can also retain too much moisture in climates more prone to rain. Excessive moisture can cause plants to rot and encourage insects such as slugs, neither of which anyone wants. Therefore, if you live in an area with excessive moisture, choose mulch better suited for your climate, such as gravel. Organic mulches include a variety of options, with the most common being bark or wood chips. Other forms of organic mulch include shredded leaves, grass clippings, hay or straw, pine needles, rotted manure or compost, sawdust, newspaper, and cocoa hulls. Most organic mulches should be applied after plants are well established (4-6 inches tall).

Shredded leaves are by far the easiest and most recommended form of mulch. A layer of around 2-3 inches is sufficient for weed control. Apply to trees, shrubs, flowers or vegetables. Leaves decompose quickly, improving the soil, and are easy to obtain relatively cheap, even free for those with abundance. They are also attractive and well suited for naturalized or wooded areas. Grass clippings are another great source of organic matter. Place a 2-inch layer around your vegetables, fruits, flowers and herbs for adequate weed control. However, be aware of its downsides; too thick of a layer can result in mold as well as too much heat, which can damage your plants. You can also use grass clipping in the compost pile. Hay and straw are other alternatives. Approximately 6 inches of hay or straw can provide good weed control; however, these materials decompose quickly and must be replenished continually to keep down weeds. Try to avoid any hay that contains weed seed. Alfalfa hay is best, supplying nitrogen to the soil as it breaks down. Hay is readily available in rural areas, but city dwellers may not be able to obtain it easily. However, straw can be purchased at most garden centers, unfortunately, it can get quite costly. Both types of mulches work well for vegetable and fruit plantings.

Rotted manure and compost is sometimes used as mulch as well. About 2-3 inches of either one should work for weed control. However, these could actually encourage some weed seed growth; therefore, it may be best to use as fertilizer mixed into the soil as they are great sources of organic matter. Pine needles look right at home in natural settings around trees, shrubs, and flowers. They are readily available in garden centers and not too expensive. The only downsides to using pine needles are its potential to become a fire hazard in severe drought as well as its acidic qualities. Bark makes extremely attractive mulch, especially around trees and shrubs. It also looks nice on paths or walkways. Apply at least 2-3 inches for weed control. Shredded bark breaks down faster than bark chips and works well on problem areas such as slopes. Bark can normally be found at garden centers and other landscaping retailers. Wood chips can be used as well, though this may not be as attractive. Wood chips can be obtained for free or low cost from tree-pruning professionals. Sawdust is another option but is usually best left for pathways. Often this type of mulch is more expensive but readily available from sawmills. All forms of bark and wood deplete nitrogen from the soil as they are loaded with carbon. They should also be renewed each year.

Newspaper might seem an unusual form of mulch, but it works anywhere in the garden and is great for controlling weeds. However, don't use the glossy sections as these may contain harmful agents. Newspaper may not look attractive on its own so use another form of mulch on top, such as straw in non-visible areas or cocoa hulls for visual appeal. Laying mulch on top will also prevent the paper from blowing away. Cocoa hull are very attractive. They can retain up to 2 ½ times their weight in water, making them ideal for use as mulch. However, these, too, have downsides. Cocoa hulls may be prone to mold and can attract rodents. You should also check beforehand to make sure that the hulls have not been treated with any type of pesticide. When dry, cocoa hulls are lightweight and susceptible to blowing away, may require thick layer to prevent this. Another disadvantage may be the limited availability in your particular area.

Inorganic mulches are long lasting but will not add any nutrients to your soil. You can, however, use organic mulch, such as newspaper, and apply non-organic mulch, such as gravel, over top. Organic mulches include stone, gravel, pebbles, plastic sheeting, landscape fabric or felt paper, oyster shells, and even aluminum foil. Some types of inorganic mulches are quite attractive; however, many are not. They can also get expensive.

Stones, gravels, and pebbles are great for use in dry gardens. They are quite attractive, coming in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and forms. Generally, these are best applied over plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric to prevent weeds from popping through. The downside is cost. Many of these can get quite expensive. Plastic sheeting is an effective weed barrier but should be covered with more attractive-looking mulch, such as crushed gravel. Place around flowering plants, trees, and shrubs. You may want to add slits throughout the sheeting, however, to allow water to pass through. The downside to using plastic sheeting, especially black plastic, is the fact that it raises soil temperature; therefore, in areas prone to hot weather, such as in the South, you should cover it with lighter-colored mulch. Landscape fabric is great just about anywhere. You can leave it as is or apply attractive mulch on top. Landscape fabric is effective for controlling weeds; yet, allows for both air and water to pass through easily. Its only downside includes deterioration from prolonged sun exposure, if left uncovered. Occasionally, aggressive weeds have been known to pop through as well. Felt paper is much the same as landscape fabric with one exception; it does not allow air or water to pass through. Consider poking holes throughout if this is your mulching choice. Also apply light-colored mulch on top as this can get extremely hot.

Oyster shells are another possibility for use as mulch. Oyster shells and even seashells can be quite attractive as mulch. Both are lightweight and when obtained in bulk, can cover a wide area. However, these are usually limited to coastal areas and may be expensive to obtain in other sites. Gardeners, on occasion, have been known to use household items for mulch, as with newspaper. But were you aware that aluminum foil is one such item? This can be used for several years and then recycled. It is good for controlling weeds and reflecting light; however, it does not allow air or water passage.

There are so many benefits to using mulch in the garden, and there are just as many types to choose from. With careful research and planning, however, you can easily find the type of mulch that will suit all of your gardening needs.

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Why Not Try Organic Gardening This Year?

Some Basic Ideas About What Organic Gardening Means

Organic gardening has become mainstream. It is not the norm or the universal way of gardening, but it has become mainstream and 'interesting' rather than 'weird'. Having said that, the tight definition of organic gardening that it developed in the comparative private time of it's early days is being challenged by anyone who wants to tweak it for an advertisement or sales pitch. So what is organic gardening and why would you want to try it this year?

A Basic Definition of Organic Gardening

According to the Agricultural Extension Service of the University of Tennessee, organic gardening is "a system of gardening that attempts to use only sustainable, ecologically sound, gardening procedures". It differs from regular non-organic gardening in that it rejects the use of man-made chemicals and fertilizers in producing food or other garden plants.

This includes manufactured pesticides for killing insects on the plants and under the ground, as well as chemical fertilizers like you would buy in a bag at a garden store. There are those who would extend this definition from the materials applied to the plants and soils, to the seeds you use, the materials in the tools you use, and even to the materials used in the storage and preparation of vegetables produced. The basic definition is more widely accepted and makes it easier for you to evaluate if you are indeed practicing organic gardening or buying food from someone who does.

Reasons to Try Organic Gardening This Year

The original reason for organic gardening was to limit the damage done to the environment by pesticides, most of which as a result of public outcry, are now banned from use.

DDT, the most famous, was used with great effect during World War II to control mosquitoes and other insects that spread malaria and typhus, saving thousands of lives. However, when it was released for general use in 1945, the side effects soon became alarming and it was banned for all but one use in 1973 in the United States.

Today, the first reason for organic gardening is the quality of the organically grown produce, especially in relation to taste and nutritional quality. This is a somewhat subjective reason, but those who prefer organic produce to regular produce often site these reasons. Because much of organic food is produced locally, that may have some bearing on this as well. In fact, some would argue that if you don't buy locally from someone you know, or raise it yourself, you have no guarantee that what you are paying for is indeed organic.

The lack of pesticide residue in the food is another reason to practice organic gardening. Although the allowed levels are jut 1/100 of what are considered dangerous, the enforcement of those levels is at best spotty, and done by a non-Government out-sourced network of agents. People who are violently allergic to the pesticide residues even in small amounts need to be aware of that. Also, there is some evidence that even these allowed levels are underlying some of the auto-immune diseases so much more common today. Any doubt regarding the state of your organic food is removed when you practice organic gardening at home and grow your own, not just buy from someone else who says they do.

The Ultimate Reason

There is one more reason for following organic gardening methods. Although it might not appeal to some, the major benefit of organic gardening is what it does for the soil the food is grown in. The increase in organic matter, the increase in the 'life of the soil' as seen in the huge increase in beneficial bacteria, worms, nematodes, fungi, and other soil-benefitting insects and micro-plants goes far beyond producing tasty veggies. The long-term good done to the soil using organic gardening methods is, in fact, hard to measure in dollars and sense, even if you include the positives of reduced healthcare and food costs.

The fact is, organic gardening is just plain good for the planet.

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Organic Lawn Care - Reasons to Go Green

Switching to organic lawn care and gardening products and practices begins with an understanding of the dangers of chemical fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides to the environment, wildlife, and human health.

There is no safe chemical fertilizer, weed killer, or pesticide. Chemical fertilizers poison the environment with their salt base that causes imbalance in the pH of the soil. They cause a toxic buildup of nitrates, contaminating drinking water, rivers, streams, and lakes. They also destroy the good microorganisms in the soil. Synthetic pesticides also poison the environment, some more than others. Some release compounds that become increasingly toxic as they break down in the environment. Some have an accumulative effect and are harmful far beyond the area they were originally applied. Some are longer lasting than others, and some don't break down for a long time, remaining in the soil or water indefinitely.

Of the millions of insect species in the world, less than 5 percent are harmful. When chemical pesticides are used, they do more collateral harm than the pests they kill. Getting rid of aphids and tent caterpillars is desirable, but the use of chemicals will also kill the beneficial ground beetles, ladybugs, fireflies, green lacewings, praying mantis, spiders, bees, and wasps that are useful in pollination and in keeping harmful insects at bay.

When chemicals are applied, there is no way to prevent migration from the application site, whether that be down stream, down wind, or leeching into ground water. The harmful impact to birds, wildlife, and aquatic life is becoming more apparent each year with each new study that's published.

Several studies have also been done that show an increased risk of non-Hodgkinson's Lymphoma in professional lawn care workers and those who work in pesticide manufacturing plants. In addition, inhaling airborne particles and drinking contaminated water can have nothing but harmful affects on homeowners, as well as their neighbors, who use chemical pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers.

Farmers are becoming increasingly aware of the negative affects of chemical use, and agricultural leaders are actively pursuing alternative methods and products. Yet, according to the US Fish and Wildlife Service, "Homeowners use up to 10 times more chemical pesticides per acre on their lawns than farmers use on their crops."

According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), it's estimated that American homeowners buy 102 million pounds of lawn and garden chemical pesticide products annually, at a cost of more than $2 billion. Additionally, $5 billion is spent each year on fossil-fuel-derived fertilizers. All told, Americans spend over $40 billion on poisonous lawn care products each year.

The National Wildlife Federation and the National Audubon Society are the current leaders in the campaign to educate American farmers, homeowners, and gardeners about the dangers of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and the long-term benefits of organic methods. Even Scotts, a well-known manufacturer of chemical lawn care products, is developing a line of organic products to meet the increasing demand.

Organic lawn and garden care is safe, effective, and a responsible alternative to the use of chemical pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, all of which are poisonous and threatening to the health and well-being of everything they contaminate. With a little research and investment of time, all homeowners and gardeners can take steps and make changes to improve their lawn care and gardening practices, to the benefit of everyone.

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Organic Gardening: Natural Lawn Care

Grow a Beautiful Lawn Without Using Toxic Herbicides

You can have a lush green lawn without toxic herbicides that endanger the environment, your family and pets. Chemicals on the lawn are picked up by feet and brought into the house. Children and pets playing on the lawn can absorb the chemicals through their skin or get in on their hands and paws which often go into their mouths. Organic lawn care methods can produce a safe, attractive, dense turf naturally.

The most important element in a healthy lawn is building a topsoil full of nutrients and organic matter that will support the growth of lawn turf. Dead plants, in various stages of decomposition, will help sandy soil hold onto water and nutrients and keep soil that is heavy with clay from compacting. Compacted soil keeps water from draining into it and oxygen won't be able to reach grass roots. Organic matter adds vital nutrients to the soil and feeds the earthworms and other beneficial microorganisms that help keep soil rich, uncompacted, pest-free and disease-resistant.

Mow grass high leaving it three to four inches tall. Tall grass has more surface area to expose to the sunlight which will maximize photosynthesis for greater root growth. Good root mass crowds out weeds and allows the grass to recover more quickly from a dormant state. Tall blades also shade the soil, conserve water, and keep sunlight from reaching low-growing weeds. Cutting grass high leaves smaller clippings which will decompose rapidly. Mow over leaves that fall in your lawn instead of raking them. Chopping the leaves into small pieces will add nutrients and they will decompose and disappear quickly into the lawn.

Contrary to common belief leaving grass clippings on the lawn does not produce thatch. Thatch is a mat of stems, roots, rhizomes, and other plant parts in various stages of decay between the green vegetation and the surface of the soil. Common causes of thatch are overfertilization with chemicals that encourage rapid root growth, or watering too shallow and often which causes turf root rhizomes to mat on the surface of the soil. Compost will add bacteria and mold to the soil which breaks down thatch. Clumping grass is only a concern when you don't mow often enough or when you mow too short.

Keep your mower blades sharpened. Dull blades will tear the grass blades instead of cutting them and leave jagged edges that are more susceptible to insects and disease.

Water your lawn deeply and infrequently. Frequent watering encourages the turf roots to remain near the surface where they are more quickly affected by dry conditions. Deep watering encourages grass roots to grow more deeply into the soil and your lawn will survive with less water. Wait until your lawn begins to show signs of drought stress (blades will start to curl before they turn brown) and then give it at least 1" of water. Put a cup on the lawn where you water so you can measure the amount.

Lower your standards a bit and allow some dandelions and white or pink clover to grow in your yard. Dandelions have deep roots which bring nutrients up to the surface. They attract birds which are natural grub control. Keeping your grass tall will discourage the dandelions from taking over. White or pink clover adds nitrogen to the soil and doesn't compete too strongly with healthy turf grass.

Organic lawn care is much safer and less expensive than resorting to chemical fertilizers. Grass is going to be mowed and leaves are going to fall anyway, so why not use Mother Nature's fertilizers to have the most beautiful lawn on the block!

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Organic Vegetable Gardening the Lazy Way: My Lazy, Cheapskate Gardening is Environmentally Friendly

When some gardeners start talking about organic vegetable gardening, it sounds like a cult, and an expensive, time-consuming one at that. It doesn't have to be hard to be organic. My vegetable gardening methods are "organic", not because I have any deep convictions about using organic versus synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, but because I'm a lazy cheapskate. If I can prevent weeds without buying and applying herbicides, grow vegetables without buying and spreading fertilizer, and keep the bugs and other pests under control by letting them kill each other, I'm happy. My budget is happy too.

The vegetables grow in raised beds made from the sides of discarded water beds held in place by 4x4 posts: it's cheap and sturdy. The picture shows the bed, a hopeful quail looking for vegetables to eat, and the soaker hose that minimizes water use. That's an eggplant in the foreground, in late March. By July it was 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide.

Organic Weed Control: My vegetable garden's organic weed control consists of a 4 to 6-inch deep layer of mulch, made by running the prunings from my trees and bushes through my chipper-shredder. Only a few weed seeds will come through the mulch, and they are easy to pull. The mulch also reduces the amount of watering I have to do by preventing evaporation.

The drawback to the mulch is that it attracts birds. The quail love to dig holes in it to make shady resting spots under the vegetables. The curve-billed thrashers and the towhees dig through it hunting for bugs. They are excellent bug controllers, but they throw mulch out of the beds and leave huge holes in the dirt. I have to throw the mulch back into the beds a couple of times a week.

Organic Fertilizer: Tree shreddings composted with the high-nitrogen beans that fall from mesquite trees and the grass clippings from the lawn, make good fertile soil for the raised vegetable beds. I mixed compost 50/50 with the alkaline native dirt the first year and just keep digging more compost into the beds every spring.

Where I deviate from the "organic" party line is with soil amendments. The local desert dirt (it doesn't deserve to be called soil) is alkaline, low in available iron, and high in clay and even the water is mineral-laden and alkaline. Vegetables don't grow well in it, even with lots of compost. I'm not going to waste time making compost tea, and I'm not going to waste money on various organic supposed remedies like bacterial infusions, Mycorrhyza inoculants, volcanic sands, and such. The dirt needs a higher pH and the most economical way to get it is to mix liberal quantities of soil sulfur into it. I also add a small amount of ammonium sulfate to the beds about mid-summer to give them a nitrogen boost.

What Grows Well: With this low-effort approach to organic vegetable gardening, I grow herbs and vegetables that are hard to find locally, or too expensive in supermarkets. The hot Arizona summers limit my choices because the usual garden vegetables can't survive the heat.

Tomatillos thrive and produce gallons of fruit.

Until the squash borers struck, the squash were thriving and producing a dozen or more edible squash a week per plant. With some screen to keep the adult borers from laying eggs on the stems, they should do better this year.

Artichokes grew and thrived, but they took up too much space to be practical. I gave the plants to a gardener with more room.

There was way too much okra! Okra is an African plant that apparently loves 110-degree days, and alkaline soil. A short row of 4 plants produced more than I could stand, and even the co-workers were losing enthusiasm for it.

Eggplant, like okra, grows almost too well. I harvested 15 to 20 softball and larger eggplants a week starting in mid-June. Much of it ended up going to friends at the office.

What Did Not Grow Well:

Tomatoes were not a success, probably because they were in full Arizona sun and heat stressed. Except for basil, the herbs either died or grew so slowly they took weeks to recover from harvest. I'm building a new bed in a spot that gets afternoon shade and will try again.

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