Showing posts with label Other Vegetables. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Other Vegetables. Show all posts

Growing Onions Successfully From Seed

Growing Onions Successfully From Seed
Fall is coming soon. Your onions still don't look like onions. It's almost harvest time for everything in the garden. Those onions you planted from seed are just little wisps blowing in the wind. You followed the seed packet directions to the letter. What happened? Why is growing onions from seed so hard? What could you be doing wrong?

Planting onion seed in the garden rarely works.

I'm not sure why those people who package the seeds tell you to do it. You see, planting onion seeds in the garden doesn't give them time to grow. You'll have much more success when planting bulbs. Since they have a head start on growth, they'll be ready to harvest on time. Yes, it's that simple. But what if you want to start your own seeds, rather than buying bulbs someone else nurtured?

Indoor onion seed starting.

If you want to start your onions from seed, you have to start early.

This is the main reason starting onion seeds in the garden doesn't work out. It takes several months of growth to get onion bulbs. It takes the rest of the growing season to get full grown onions. You have to start your onion seeds indoors in January or February in order to plant the resultant onion bulbs (sets) in the spring.

It takes patience to start onions from seed.

It takes a lot of time and patience to grown onion bulbs from seed. Onion sprouts are extremely delicate. You really have to baby them and watch them closely. They can't have too much sun or too little. Over-watering is also a concern.

You will need a lot of seeds at first.

If you like both small green onions and large full grown onions, you'll need to sprout a large number of seeds. I've grown 160 bulbs before and not had enough onions to last through fall and winter. It may sound like a lot. Remember, the green onions you harvest for summer salads are quite small. The good news is that after several seasons, you will have onions popping up naturally in your garden. The longer you grow onions, the less seeds or bulbs you will have to buy.

Use loose potting soil.

You'll need to pull your bulbs cleanly from the soil for outdoor planting. Therefore, your soil should be looser than normal. One trick I use is adding cornmeal to the potting soil. Make sure to use GMO free cornmeal to avoid organic seeds being contaminated. Sand can be used as well.

Let your onions go slightly dry between watering.

Wet soil causes fungus growth. It also tends to hold seeds too tightly. The soil you start your onions seeds in will need to be damp for initial sprouting. After that, allow your soil to mostly dry before watering. This forces deeper root growth and healthier onions.

Sometimes nothing works.

Starting onions from seed is a fussy process. Not everyone is up to the task. I spent a lot of years planting ready grown bulbs, while learning to propagate my own onion seeds. There will be years when your seeds simply aren't successful. Don't despair. There's always next year. If this happens to you, just "suck it up". Go buy some organic GMO free seedlings. Most good greenhouses carry them. One failure doesn't make you a terrible gardener. In fact, the learning experience can make you a better one.

Growing Corn in the Home Garden

Growing corn in the home garden isn't difficult, but it does require ample space. Not only does corn need room between rows for easy cultivation, it must be planted in multiple rows for adequate pollination. Typically, two to four ten foot rows in recommended.

Light: Corn prefers a sunny location with all day sun if possible, but can be planted in any area that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. Keep in mind that corn grown in restricted sunlight may produce smaller and fewer ears than corn grown in full day sun.

Soil: Corn prefers loose fertile soil. Amend the soil with a two to four inch layer of organic matter - such as compost or well-rotted manure before planting. Work the organic matter into the top six inches of the soil with a garden tiller. Apply 5-10-10 fertilizer according to the application rate on the container and work it into the soil well to avoid injury to seeds or young plants.

Preparation: Soak corn seeds in lukewarm water overnight to speed the germination process. Allow room in the container for the seeds to double in size as they absorb moisture from the water.

Planting: Plant corn seeds when all danger of frost has passed in your area and the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees F. Corn planted in soil with a temperature between 50 and 55 degrees may take three weeks to germinate, whereas corn germinates in 70 degree soil in approximately a week to 10 days. For this reason, waiting an extra week or two for the soil to warm is generally advised.

Fertilizer: Side dress corn with 5-10-10 fertilizer when it is for to six inches tall. Sprinkle a light band of fertilizer down both sides of the row - spaced 4 inches from the base of the corn. Work it into the soil with a garden hoe, using care not to disturb the roots of your corn.

Watering: Water corn deeply once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry one inch below the surface.

Harvesting: Harvest corn when the ears are plump and firm. Typically, dark and shriveled "silk" indicates that the ear is ripe for picking. Use corn immediately after picking to retain the best flavor, as the sugar content decreases rapidly in corn once it is harvested.

Preserving: Blanch whole ears of corn in boiling water for two minutes and then plunge into ice water to cool thoroughly. Place in freezer bags and seal tightly. To use frozen corn, boil in water until the kernels are crisp tender.

Garden Advice for the New Gardener

As a child, each spring I helped plant seed in the family garden. Each summer, I spent hours weeding and watering plants. Back in those days, we used a bucket and ladle, not a garden hose. Through the growing season, I harvested vegetables and helped with canning them. All these things, I learned from my mother. What I did not know as a child was that the location of the garden in the landscape is critical. Were it not for my father's intervention, my first garden in my mid-20s would not have been successful. My chosen garden location, he pointed out, was an area prone to late afternoon shade, which has the potential of stunting the growth of garden plants. Most any new gardener can grow a vegetable garden when equipped with advice passed down through the ages like the advice I received from my parents.

Time commitment
Gardening is a time-consuming process requiring, at times, daily maintenance including weeding, watering and harvesting vegetables. Plan to dedicate at least 10 minutes on average each day in the garden to pull weeds, water plants or admire the bounty of your efforts. Consider starting a journal of your garden activities. For the new gardener, recording the outcome of the current vegetable garden can help to create continued success or avoid failures in future years.

Garden size and location
To control expenses and maintenance time, start with a small garden about 10 feet square or smaller. Choose an area away from buildings, shrubs or trees that could cast shadows. Proper drainage is needed, so ensure the selected garden area is level to, or higher than, the surrounding area to ensure the vegetable plants are not standing in water following a rain storm. One last tip about the location of the garden--it should be near a faucet to connect a garden hose.

Row direction
My father taught me to plant vegetables in parallel rows that run north to south. Planting in north/south rows allows optimal sunlight to hit both sides of the plant as confirmed by the Delaware Cooperative Extension article, Consider a Vegetable Garden This Year. If your garden is on a hillside, plant rows east to west with the tallest plants on the north end. Tall plants include corn or pole beans.

Tools
It may sound like a negative concept for someone jumping into gardening for the first time, but if you purchase the bare minimum tools, you may feel less guilt or financial loss should you decide gardening is not for you. I started my first garden with a garden hose, rake, hoe and shovel, but I could have gotten by with just the shovel and hose.

Plants or seeds
Back on my parents' farm, everything was grown from seed. Now, however, I like planting some vegetables from seed and some from starter plants purchased at the local garden center. It's a matter of personal preference. Easy vegetables to grow include seed-planted lettuce, carrots or radishes, and tomatoes planted from seed or starter plant. Yes, you can grow a salad! I also grew green beans, sweet corn and peas in my first garden.

Care
Keep in mind that vining vegetable plants, like pole beans, will need a trellis to climb. To avoid that added expense, look for bush beans, which do not require a trellis for support. A mechanism is needed to support tomatoes. I used inexpensive wooden stakes and twine to create crib-like support around the two tomato plants in my first garden. Watering may be the most challenging part of gardening. Too little water or too much water (including excessive rainfall) and the plants suffer. As pointed out in the University of Kentucky's article, "How Much Water Do Summer Veggies Need?," vegetables need 1 to 2 inches of water each week. When in doubt, use my father's rule of thumb: thoroughly saturate the soil around the plants seven days from the last rainfall. Increase the water frequency in very hot, dry weather.

Motivation
What a new gardener needs more than anything is motivation. I haven't always been motivated to garden. When living at home, tending the family garden was a chore that I had to do. I hated getting dirt under my fingernails, missed spending times with friends, and did not appreciate my parents' goal of harvesting a sufficient amount of vegetables to carry us through winter without having to buy vegetables at the grocery. I had no motivation to garden. Now, as an adult, those three things are what make me want to garden. They are my motivation. There's something about getting my hands dirty; it makes me feel a kinship with the soil. Sharing produce from the garden with friends is quite fulfilling. Most satisfying of all is placing a meal on the table that includes food you grew.

How to Grow Container Onions From Seeds

Growing onions in containers is a perfect method of ensuring year-round access to fresh produce. Planting onions calls for soil pH considerations and light availability. Planting in containers also comes with the added call for wise variety choices. For example, bulb-forming onions have different habitat needs than green onions. Get your container garden off to a good start today.

Select appropriate Varieties
Growing onions in containers begins by choosing the varieties that are most likely to thrive in this environment. Texas A&M suggests planting three to five green onion plants in a one-gallon container. Appropriate varieties include Crysal Wax and Evergreen Bunching.

When growing onions from seed, they will germinate in about six to eight days, do well in partial shade and can be harvested within 80 to 100 days of seeding. In contrast, the Egyptian walking onion can be grown indoors but does not produce the famous top-sets until the second year. Not surprisingly, they are not good container onions to consider - if same-year harvesting is desired.

How to grow Onions the right Way
Green onions require approximately six to seven hours of sunlight to thrive. Shady conditions may lead to slow growing specimens, although partial shade may be tolerated. In a pinch, supplement natural light with artificial lighting from fluorescent bulbs. The Gardening Patch suggests that you start with a nutrient-rich soil that features a pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.5.

Stagger your planting schedule for year-round access to onions ready for harvest. If you instead choose to plant all the seeds at the same time, you must have appropriate room to dry and store the plants after harvesting. Although usually edible no matter how far along in the growth season, it is high time to harvest the onions when the tops yellow and go limp.

What about larger Onions?
Can you plant larger onions in a container garden? Yes! However, spatial considerations are one of the downfalls when it comes to onion container gardening. While green onions are good options, those that form large bulbs - most commonly the yellow Granex or red Grano - present a very real challenge. For example, it is possible to grow about three large-bulb onions in a five gallon container, but only if each bulb is surrounded by approximately three inches of unencumbered soil.

Remember to also explore drainage options, such as trays, since onions need frequent and deep watering. At the same time, they abhor getting "wet feet," which leads to quick root rot. As a general rule of thumb, if the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, it is time to water. Soils that went too long in between waterings have a difficult time holding on to the water. Rehydrate the soil by placing the container into a water bath and allowing the liquid to saturate the dirt.