Unique Ways to Use Metal Tubs as Outdoor Planters

Saving Money on Yard and Garden Displays with Unique Design Ideas

Some of the very best outdoor planters are not made of stone, concrete, terracotta or cast resin. They are made of inexpensive metal, and they are an affordable alternative to flowerpots that can look just as good. With enamel paint and creative methods of arrangement, galvanized containers can look phenomenal. Consider these unique ways to use metal tubs and planters, and create an impressive display of flowers, foliage and more. The contents of the containers will steal the show in your yard or garden.

Begin By Spray Painting the Tubs

It is amazing how color can completely change something plain. Before using metal tubs as outdoor planters, coat them with metal primer and paint for outdoor use. These day you can find spray paint in every color of the rainbow, and some include texture and other unique effects. If desired, you can make cheap galvanized metal look just like stone.

Make a Gorgeous and Impressive Three-Tiered Display

When looking for unique ways to use metal tubs for planting, consider setting up a three-tiered arrangement. Buy containers in graduating sizes, and fill them with rich organic soil. Stack the planters with the largest one on the bottom and the smallest one on top. Plant vinca vines around the edges of the bottom tub and low-growing flowers on the inside. Opt for another low-growing variety for the middle container, and consider a spike for the top.

Thread Metal Buckets onto a Planter Pole

You can create an amazing display with a single metal tub and three metal buckets. Fill a large galvanized container with soil, and drill a hole in the center of the bottom of the first bucket. The hole should be just a little more than one inch in diameter.

Next, push a one-inch diameter metal rod into the center of the soil filled container, and pack the dirt around it. Attach a hose clamp to the metal rod approximately six inches from the top of the soil. The purpose of the hose clamp is to support the bucket. Thread the first bucket onto the rod, and fill it with soil.

Drill a two-inch hole in the center of the second and third bucket. Thread the second one onto the metal rod, and tip it either left or right. Fill it with soil. The first bucket will support it. 

Thread the last bucket onto the rod, and tilt it in the opposite direction. Fill it with soil, and plant petunias in a color of your choice in the buckets and the metal tub. It will look as if waves of flowers are pouring from the buckets and into the container below.

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5 Containers to Use Instead of Flower Pots for Your Veggies

Thrifty Containers for Growing Vegetables

Even though I have a fairly large yard, I do a bit of container gardening as well. Container gardening lets me grow flowers and vegetables in areas of the yard where normally I can't grow anything such as the steps or on the sidewalk. Containers also let me elevate vegetables that our family eats raw (such as salad greens and basil) which keeps them out of reach from our family pets who aren't terribly discerning where they do their business.

While oversized flower pots are the most common type of container for planting your vegetables, there other options too. Here are 5 containers that I use for planting container vegetables.

Old galvanized wash basins

If you have Grandma's leaky old wash basin still kicking around the house, these 10 gallon basins are ideal for growing vegetables such as carrots, radishes, and salad greens. The ones I use have cracks in the bottom which allow for drainage; basins that still hold water should have a dozen or so holes pierced into the base using a five penny nail and a hammer.

Old canning kettles

While Grandma's old copper canning kettle holds firewood in my living room, her old canning kettles made of galvanized steel or speckled enamel have also found new life in my garden for flowers and lettuce. Because some of these do have antique value if in excellent condition, I only use the kettles that no longer hold water for growing vegetables.

Watering cans

Cans that have rusted, lost their spout, or their handles are usually tossed in the trash. I reclaim these fun containers for growing herbs. Old watering cans look cute when arranged on tree stumps, staggered along the steps leading up to the front door, or nailed to the top of fence posts.

Kiddie swimming pool

Years ago when I lived in a mobile home park, the soil that surrounded our home looked too iffy for growing food crops. What I did instead was to buy a couple of $5 kiddie pools to use for growing garden veggies. Kiddie pools are great for square foot gardening plus can be elevated on saw horses to keep out the cats. Like the wash basins, these pools will also need holes punched in the base to avoid water log.

Old wire bike baskets

The increase in popularity of coconut basket liners opens up all kinds of possibilities for turning wire baskets, wire crates and other wire containers into attractive containers for gardening. I use coconut liners to turn Mom's old bike racks into herb baskets that can be hung from the side of my garden shed. 

For families watching costs, containers for container gardening doesn't have to cost a lot of money. As long as the container is deep enough, has drainage holes, and isn't made of harmful substances that can leach into the soil, you can pretty much turn just about anything into a container for vegetable gardening. Looking for more information about container  gardening <--- click here

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Easy Ways to Conserve Soil in a Large Planter

Fillers Save Money While Making Pots Lighter

Big glazed terracotta pots look fantastic, but it takes a lot of soil to fill them. Depending on the types of plants that are added, a deep flowerpot is not always necessary. Some varieties are shallow rooted and do not require significant depth. A great portion of the space is essentially wasted. Why waste costly organic mixtures? You can avoid the added expense by using one of these easy ways to conserve soil. They are lightweight fillers and practical options. Best of all, a large planter that would be too heavy to move will be much easier to relocate. You can easily fill in a third or more of the space with a soil alternative while providing plenty of drainage for all types of plants.

Fill the Bottom with Foam Peanuts

Foam peanuts are good for more than just packing fragile items. They make fantastic fillers for big pots, and they work exceptionally well to conserve valuable soil. Place packing peanuts in the bottom of the pot, and top it with a rich organic mixture. Some of the soil will inevitably end up in the bottom, but the foam pieces will take up a lot of room. The foam will also allow excess water to drain away from roots. On the downside, the peanuts will break down within a few years and will eventually require replacement.

Place an Overturned Plastic Pot in the Planter

If you do not have packing peanuts, consider placing an overturned plastic pot in the bottom of the planter. Top it with soil, and add plants of your choice. The pot will create an empty space in an area that would go unused anyway. Moisture will drain down the sides of the overturned planter, and with proper care, the plants will grow and thrive. However, after two or three years under damp heavy soil, the small flowerpot will also break down and need to be replaced.

Partially Fill the Container with Lava Rock

Lava rock is lightweight compared to other stones. It is typically used for landscaping purposes, and it is also used in some types of gas grills to aide in heat disbursement and retention. It also works exceptionally well to conserve soil in a large planter. Fill one third of the pot with lava rocks before adding the dirt and plants. Excess water will easily drain into the area beneath the rocks. Best of all, the lava rock will not break down. It will continue to save space and provide drainage for years to come. More about container gardening.

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How to Refinish Wooden Plant Boxes and Holders

How to Sand Stain and Poly Wood Planters

Wooden plant boxes and holders should have some sort of finish applied to them to protect the wood. Each time you water your plants you are adding more moisture. The moisture absorbs into unfinished wood and will eventually mold and rot it. Soil holds moisture so really the wood never has a chance to be dry. Refinishing your wooden plant boxes and holders will make the wood water resistant. It will also give them a decorative look.

To begin empty remove all soil from each plant box or holder you will be refinishing. Use a shop vac to suck off any remaining soil that sticks to the wood. Do not wash the dirt off with a wet cloth. You don't need them perfectly clean because they're going to be sanded. You also need to have the boxes as dry as possible and you don't want to add any extra moisture. Once the planters are free of soil it's actually a good idea to let them set in a warm dry area over night. This gives the wood a little time to dry. This is important because you don't want there to be moisture trapped in the wood sealed in by your new finish.

Once the wooden plant holders and boxes are all dry it's time to begin refinishing them. Get an electric handheld sander ready with rough grit sand paper. Go over the entire planter or box thoroughly. Do the inside and bottom of the box or planter too. Once you have finishing sanding them with the rough grit switch to fine grit and go over them again.

Use the shop vac again to remove all of the dust created from sanding. It will also come in handy to clean up the mess made from sanding. Use a soft cloth and wipe each box or planter down. This removes any missed dust which could flaw your new finish.

To give the planters beauty and color apply stain. Stain comes in various shades and colors. Choose to do your planters all the same or vary the colors doing some oak, some walnut, and some cherry. Use a clean dry cloth to apply the stain. Rub it on in a circular motion then quickly wipe it back off to avoid dark spots.

Once you have finished staining you can immediately go on to the next step which is to apply polyurethane. The poly will protect the wood and make it water resistant. The wood itself will not be able to absorb moisture because the poly seals and coats it. Polyurethane also gives the wood a gorgeous shine. Your planters and boxes will be not only protected but also beautiful.

Use a large foam paint brush to apply the poly. Give each box or planter four or five coats for maximum protection. Wait at least 20 minutes between coats so that each has time enough to dry before the next is applied.

Let the final coat of poly dry twentfour hours before placing any soil in the wooden plant boxes and holders. Once that twentfour hours has passed fill them up and add your seeds or plants. They will last for years to come and will add a little decorative touch to your garden area or home.

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Raised Bed Preparation Tips for Optimum Success

Are you thinking of implementing raised beds in your garden? We have, for several years. I'm somewhat physically limited. Those raised beds make it possible for me to enjoy my favorite pastime without injury. Along the way, I've learned a few things about raised bed gardening that have made the process more productive and more enjoyable.

Location is vital

Planning a raised bed garden is no different than planning a conventional one in some respects. One big difference is that it's a lot harder to move a raised bed garden. You have to remove all the dirt, move the bed and prepare the ground underneath it every time. Therefore, placement is important.

If you're planting vegetables, your beds should receive at least 6 hours of sun per day. You'll also want your beds placed on high ground, for proper drainage. Knowing what you're planting helps too. Some vegetables require more shade than others. So, consider all factors before placing your beds. You don't want to move them.

Bed building

There are several ways to build garden beds. I've actually written a guide with some pictures to demonstrate the easiest method. As for the size, you'll want to be sure you can reach your plants while gardening. I've found the ideal width to be 4 feet. The length, is not as important. However, I do suggest you use a length that comes ready cut to save time, lumber and labor. You can usually find 12 inch wide boards in 8, 10 and 12 foot lengths. The 12 inch height is perfect for raised beds. If you'd like them taller, simply make them two boards high.

Preparing the ground

The first time we used raised beds, we made the mistake of putting plastic under them, to block weeds. We had a yard full of them. The beds did OK, but not spectacularly. Then, at the end of the season, all the tomatoes came down with a fungus. Plastic does not allow water to drain. So, what is the best method?

The best thing to do, when placing raised beds, is to remove a layer of sod where the bed will be placed. Then, dig and loosen the soil to a depth of about a foot. This allows for drainage. It also allows deep rooted plants to spread their roots naturally.

Enhancing raised beds

Once your raised beds are in place, you may want to enhance them. For instance, if you plan to plant lettuce, there will be times when you'll need a shade cover. You might want to add posts to the corners of the bed to secure a cover to. If your raised beds will contain vining plants, you could add some permanent trellis.

Soil tips

We've found that the best fertilizer by far is our own compost. However, when filling garden beds, we use a planter's mix from our local garden supply/greenhouse. A perfect raised bed planter's mix contains half soil, half compost. The soil quality will vary, depending on the greenhouse. When shopping for garden bed soil, look for loose, dark dirt that balls slightly, then crumbles. If it holds a ball permanently, it likely contains too much clay. If it doesn't ball at all, it doesn't have enough.

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Repotting Plants Ensure Their Long-term Health

Potted plants give a gardener the versatility to grow plants indoors and add color to patios and balconies. While potted plants are easy to move into an area that provides the best temperature and light conditions, they require proper care, just like plants growing in the ground, and grow best when repotted as necessary.

Why Plants Require Repottin
Plants need repotting when they have outgrown their pot or when the soil needs refreshed. Because the size of the pot limits the root growth for potted plants, it affects the plant's health if the plant becomes root-bound. While some plants like to be somewhat root-bound, others lose vigor and do not bloom when roots are crowded and unable to grow. This is true of many types of container plants, including perennials, bulbs, trees, shrubs and water plants.

When to Repot Plants
Plants that have tangled, cramped roots exhibit certain symptoms, such as stunted growth or an increased need for water, that alert the gardener to the need for a bigger pot. An older plant growing in a large pot needs repotting when it shows signs of growing poorly. If the size of the pot is not the problem, the plant may just need the roots trimmed or the soil refreshed. The time to repot plants is when doing do will not cause a minimal amount of stress. This is either prior to new growth in spring, after the flower has entered a dormant period, or once the plant has is not actively growing and is done blooming.

• Repot deciduous plants after the leaves have dropped.
  
• Repot evergreen plants in late fall to early spring
  
• Repot flowering plants a season or two before flowering, or after blooms fade.
  

How to Repot Plants
There are a few steps required to safely repot plants:

• Tilt the container to remove the plant carefully. If the plant and soil does not slide out easily, slide a knife along the inside to loosen the roots.
  
• Tight roots need to be eased apart gently, removing soil as they are separated. Remove about one-third of any fibrous roots.
  
• Choose a larger container to repot the plant, about two to three times wider than the current pot for immature plants. For mature plants, the same size pot, but add fresh soil.
  
• If using clay pots, soak the pots overnight to avoid plant stress.
  
• Add sterile soil mix to the new pot and position the plant in the pot before filling the pot will soil. Water well after repotting.
  

Alternative to Repotting
Instead of completely removing mature plants to refresh the soil, gardeners can remove the top 2 to 4 inches of the soil in the pot each year and replace it with fresh soil mix. When doing so, avoid damaging the plants tender root system and any feeder roots that grow near the top of the soil. While this works for mature plants, immature plants often need a larger pot, so this method is not meant for younger potted plants.

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Choosing Plants for Winter Container Gardening

Enhance Curb Appeal with Front Door Container Plants

Let the beauty of outdoor container gardening continue through winter by choosing landscaping plants suitable for cold climates. Choose weather-sturdy plant containers like those made of plastic, polymers or stone. Catch the eye of visitors by using bright colored containers for your landscape design projects. Fill the containers with evergreen shrubs, ground cover or flowers. Surround the plants in the container with 1 to 2 inches of mulch, such as pine chips or leaf mold, to help retain moisture and smother weed growth from seeds that may float in the air and find their way into the pot. Choose a single plant for each container or choose a combination of plants like a shrub surrounded by ground cover.

Evergreen shrubs

Landscaping evergreen shrubs in containers require little care. Choose dwarf or slow growing evergreen varieties, which may need little to no pruning to retain a suitable height. Shrubs need a large, heavy planter to accommodate root growth and to resist tipping in heavy winds. Shrub options may include leaf or needle evergreen that grow in full sun to part shade. Dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica') grows 5 to 8 feet tall and is cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7. Dwarf Burford holly (Ilex cornuta rotunda burfordii) grows up to 3 feet tall in USDA zones 7 to 9. Japanese boxwood (Buxus japonica) grows to about 5 feet tall and is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 10.

Ground cover

Adding ground cover around the base of plants in a container garden replaces the need for mulch. Green to green-yellow, creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) offers year-round appeal. Grow in USDA plantings zones 4 through 8. Equally bright is goldmoss sedum (Sedum acre) that grows 2 to 4 inches tall in USDA planting zones 5 to 10, and creeping thyme (Thymus praecox) that grows 1 to 4 inches tall in USDA zones 4 to 9. Plant these ground covers in containers located in full sun to partial shade

Flowers

Many landscaping flowers thrive in containers. For a touch of color, pick winter pansy (viola), literally! Snip blooms from pansy to create a tiny floral arrangement for each table setting. Choose from violet, yellow or white blooms that reach less than 12 inches tall. Winter pansy is cold hardy in USDA planting zones 6 to 9 and prefers full sun to part shade. Looking for a winter blooming flower with some more height? Try hellebore (Helleborus x hybridus), which grows to about 18 inches in partial shade. Hellebore is a perennial that is cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9 and produces blooms in shades of cream, purple or rose.

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Grow an Herb Garden in Ordinary Household Sponges

If you love fresh herbs but simply can't handle the mess of potting soil on your counters - or even worse, under your fingernails - you'll love this project. Growing herbs in ordinary household sponges - clean ones, of course - eliminates the need to for soil and provides you with fresh herbs all winter.

If you are struggling with the concept, don't feel bad. I'm an avid gardener and I didn't believe it either - until I saw the pictures of lush green herbs springing from an ordinary sponge. The trick of course it to keep the sponge wet, but you've probably figured that out on your own.

Sponges Some sources recommend that you use recycled sponges, but somehow this just doesn't set right to me. New sponges are inexpensive and you can be reasonably sure they are free of bacteria or contaminants that recycled sponges can hold. I personally prefer sea sponges, mainly because I like the natural look. You could, of course, choose brightly-colored kitchen sponges to brighten the décor. If that's your style - go ahead - I promise, I won't tell a soul.

Containers

Select a container for your herb garden. Plant pots, window trays or shallow serving dishes make good choices, but here again; it's totally up to you. If you want to grow herbs in grandma's old teapot - go ahead. As long as the container is waterproof and holds the sponge, there are no rules.

Preparations

Rinse the sponge thoroughly for several minutes to remove any residue in may contain. If you are using recycled sponges, soak them in boiling water for 15 minutes to kill any bacteria.

Place the sponge in your container. A snug fit works best and prevents accidental spilling. If necessary, cut your sponge to the shape of the container to get a good fit.

Water to saturate the sponge. A little water on the bottom of the container is fine, but more that one half inch of water should be poured off before planting your herb seeds.

Planting

Sprinkle your favorite herb seeds over the top of the sponge and press them into the sponge with your fingers. Most herbs have tiny seeds and easily penetrate the surface of the sponge. For larger seeds - like chives - push the seeds into the holes of the sponge until they are secure.

Cover the top of the container with plastic food wrap. Punch several holes in the plastic with the tip of a pencil to allow air to circulate and prevent excessive moisture buildup. Place the herb garden in a warm location until the seeds germinate.

Growing

Remove the cover once seedlings have emerged and place the herb garden in a sunny window. If light is limited, place them under a plant light or a fluorescent light. Herbs prefer bright light and suffer in shaded areas.

Keep the sponge moist at all times to prevent injury to your herb plants.

Harvesting

Begin harvesting fresh herbs when the plants are three to four inches tall. Harvesting leaves from the growing tip forces new foliage to form along the stem and creates a bushy plant.

So, go ahead. Enjoy the flavor of fresh herbs all winter without the mess and fuss of potting soil by growing your favorite herbs in sponges.

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How to Grow Container Onions From Seeds

Growing onions in containers is a perfect method of ensuring year-round access to fresh produce. Planting onions calls for soil pH considerations and light availability. Planting in containers also comes with the added call for wise variety choices. For example, bulb-forming onions have different habitat needs than green onions. Get your container garden off to a good start today.

Select appropriate Varieties

Growing onions in containers begins by choosing the varieties that are most likely to thrive in this environment. Texas A&M suggests planting three to five green onion plants in a one-gallon container. Appropriate varieties include Crysal Wax and Evergreen Bunching.

When growing onions from seed, they will germinate in about six to eight days, do well in partial shade and can be harvested within 80 to 100 days of seeding. In contrast, the Egyptian walking onion can be grown indoors but does not produce the famous top-sets until the second year. Not surprisingly, they are not good container onions to consider - if same-year harvesting is desired.

How to grow Onions the right Way

Green onions require approximately six to seven hours of sunlight to thrive. Shady conditions may lead to slow growing specimens, although partial shade may be tolerated. In a pinch, supplement natural light with artificial lighting from fluorescent bulbs. The Gardening Patch suggests that you start with a nutrient-rich soil that features a pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.5.

Stagger your planting schedule for year-round access to onions ready for harvest. If you instead choose to plant all the seeds at the same time, you must have appropriate room to dry and store the plants after harvesting. Although usually edible no matter how far along in the growth season, it is high time to harvest the onions when the tops yellow and go limp.

What about larger Onions?

Can you plant larger onions in a container garden? Yes! However, spatial considerations are one of the downfalls when it comes to onion container gardening. While green onions are good options, those that form large bulbs - most commonly the yellow Granex or red Grano - present a very real challenge. For example, it is possible to grow about three large-bulb onions in a five gallon container, but only if each bulb is surrounded by approximately three inches of unencumbered soil.

Remember to also explore drainage options, such as trays, since onions need frequent and deep watering. At the same time, they abhor getting "wet feet," which leads to quick root rot. As a general rule of thumb, if the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, it is time to water. Soils that went too long in between waterings have a difficult time holding on to the water. Rehydrate the soil by placing the container into a water bath and allowing the liquid to saturate the dirt.

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Hassle Free Container Gardening

Enjoy the Pleasures of Gardening in Small Spaces

Many people who live in apartments or condos forego the pleasures of gardening because they think they don't have the room. Container gardening is an easy and efficient way to enjoy many of the same benefits as traditional gardening and anyone can do it regardless of where you live. Fill a pot, basket - even an old tire with colorful flowers for a foolproof, hassle free garden. All you need is a little TLC and a bit of guidance and you'll have a container garden that all of your friends and family will envy.

First of all, become familier with the different types of containers so that you choose one to best fit your needs. Containers can be anything - traditional ones such as clay pots or wooden window boxes to the not-so-traditional, like old tires, baskets and wheelbarrows. I once planted flowers in one of my nephews old tennis shoes! The main thing to remember is that all containers must have good drainage. Regardless of the type, they must have at least one drainage hole. Then it is best to put some kind of "feet" under the container (bricks or a terra cotta saucer.) This is so the water can drain easily out of the bottom. It also helps to cover the hole inside the pot with a bit of broken pottery to facilitate steady drainage. Clay pots are classic, but they're very pourous, so water evaporates quickly in the heat. Plastic containers are lightweight and easy to move around. Wood and ceramic are also good choices. Let your pots make a statement, much as you would a new piece of furniture for your home. Remember - a cast iron urn says "formal" while a wooden barrel says "rustic."

You should fill your container with three key ingredients - a good quality potting soil or soilless potting mix, water-retaining crystals and a slow-release granular fertilizer (try to choose one specificially for containers.) You shouldn't use soil from your garden because generally plants in your garden are different from container plants. Leave one or two inches between the soil and the top of the pot so there's room to water without soil spilling out of the container. When placing plants in the container, a good rule of thumb is to think in terms of three rings: a center plant (usually the tallest plant,) then a ring of plants that cluster around the center plant and finally, an outer ring of plants to drape over the edge of the container.

Some good choices for the centerpiece plant are pennisetums, large cannas, banana plants, elephant's ears, guzmania and colocasias. For the second "layer" of mounding plants, try hens and chicks, sage, ageratum, coral bells, black mondo grass, geraniums, verbena or dahlias (the shorter varieties.) Finally, for the outer ring, some good choices are sweet potato vine, draping verbena, coleus, petunias, nasturtiums, creeping sedum, thyme and sprawling geraniums. Of course, these are just some suggestions - anything goes in container gardening. One of my favorites is to just fill a big pot with lavender and a few thyme plants to spill over the side. I enjoy geraniums in my window boxes because they come in a variety of vibrant colors and last way into the fall. Enjoy the process and over time you'll learn which combinations you like and what works best for you.

One final note is to remember pots tend to dry out very quickly, so water, water, water! Early morning and evening are the best times to water. Experiment and have fun - you can't go wrong with container gardening. Like painting - you're the artist and if you don't like the way something looks, just pull out the plants and start all over! Soon you will be on your way to a hassle free container garden you can be proud of and enjoy all summer long!

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Container Gardening Brings the Garden Indoors

Gardening doesn't have to be limited to the outside of your home. You can bring the beauty of nature indoors for enjoyment year round. Container gardening offers you the chance to transform an outdoor garden into a miniature one that can be treasured throughout the seasons, even during winter. Creating this type of garden is not only easy but fun as well. Containers allow you to use your imagination. Container gardens provide flexible options such as with size and location. A container garden can be situated to fit an area's existing space and tailored to suit current light and temperature needs. Typically, just about any type of container allowing adequate drainage is acceptable; you're limited only by your imagination. Some of the many possibilities include windowsill gardens, strawberry jar gardens, and hanging gardens.

Windowsill gardens make wonderful, attractive additions to your home's décor. They are easy to create as well as affordable. By planting a windowsill garden, you can bring your favorite herbs and flowers indoors and enjoy them all year long. Nearly any type of container can be fitted to a window as long as it provides good drainage. If the container you have chosen does not provide any outlets for drainage, you can easily drill a few holes within the bottom or lower sides. After selecting plants for your windowsill garden, place them in the container using a soil-less potting mix. This type of medium contains natural materials and drains more efficiently.

Hanging baskets can offer a variety of design ideas for the indoor garden. Nearly anything with the ability to hold soil and water can be used for baskets. Those lined with sphagnum moss are ideal since hanging baskets are prone to drying out easily and sphagnum moss retains moisture as will a larger container. A variety of plants are suitable for placement in a hanging basket. Sweet potato vines, ferns, morning glories, ajuga, creeping Jenny, moneywort, wandering Jew or ivy cultivars look quite beautiful in a hanging basket and when mixed with various flowers, these plants can bring a basket to life. Vegetables and herbs can be used as well. Another option for the hanging garden includes cuttings from your favorite plants. Place them in various bottles of water and situate them in a wire basket lined with moss. Hang in your desired location.

Strawberry jars can easily be transformed into striking herb, succulent, or flower gardens. Strawberry jars are found in most garden centers and are available in various sizes and with varying planting pockets. Choose plants that are suited to growing in containers and tuck them neatly into the pockets. Add potting soil as you go and water thoroughly. As plants grow, be sure to deadhead any spent flowers or unkempt leaves and water on a regular basis as well. Strawberry jars can also be used to create lovely fountains by placing a small submersible pump inside the jar and filling with water. Place the jar in a large bowl that is similar in style; this will catch water. Stones or pebbles can be added along with moisture-loving plants.

To create a useful kitchen garden, incorporate herbs such as basil, marjoram, oregano, parsley, chive, sage, lemon balm, mint, and thyme. Place your herbs in a sunny location. There are many succulents and flowers that can be successfully grown in containers. Some of these include hens and chicks, cactus, sedum, petunias, impatiens, geraniums, begonias, and lobelia. To enjoy the blissful aromas of outdoors, add some fragrant flowers. Heliotrope, sweet alyssum, lemon verbena, creeping thyme, and miniature carnations or roses are popular choices. In order to intensify its fragrance, place your container garden in a sunny area. Foliage plants such as ivy and ferns can be added as well to create a more natural appearance. Choose from numerous varieties to add texture and contrast to the garden.

Whether you opt for a windowsill garden, strawberry jar, hanging basket, or one of your own creative indoor garden designs, containers are a sure-fire way to enjoy the beauty of outdoors all year long.

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Patio Gardening in Containers

Tips on Growing a Garden in a Small Space

More and more of us are moving into homes without a lot of sprawling real estate. The reasons may include: 1)lower monthly mortgage payment, 2) property less costly to maintain, or 3) it requires less upkeep. Many families live happily in urban condos, lofts or apartments. Even single family homes today have smaller yards and in some instances only a patio.

But having a small space does not mean a garden is out of the question. A little creative thinking can turn a boring patio into an inviting "mini farmers market", alive with color and energy! There is no need to squelch that inner gardener in you!

The Advantages of Gardening in Containers on a Patio

Gardening in a container has many advantages.

    Containers can be moved to the appropriate place on a patio. As the angle of the sun changes during the year, so can the container. If you find the plant is getting too much sun or not enough, you can find a better spot for it.

    Color and fragrance can be scattered around the space, filling it with energy and ambiance.

    When a change of residence is made, container gardens can move with you and bring certain memories with them. My hanging pothos once dripped water on my ex-mother-in-law's head. It traveled with me to my new home, where it filled an urn proudly, as if celebrating with me my new single status!

    Container plants can be moved to showcase the most glorious in the garden. Those that are in season, with either blooms or fruit, can be moved toward the front. It is hard for most gardeners to give up on a plant, even if it has only one tiny little green shoot and I am no exception. My sickly plants take back seat to the beautiful ones, out of sight, where they will either recover or die a private death.

Gardening in Containers,(Ortho Books,1984) has been my long-time reference partner for container gardening. (If only I could have found a man so timeless!) In the "Climate and Container-grown Fruit Trees" section, it states: "planting in containers allows even tender plants far from their natural climate zone to grow well; you can move them to shelter when cold weather comes, and wheel them to a shady spot when it gets too hot."

Consider the Patio's Space When Picking Plants

Obviously, a 10 x 10 patio can only hold so much. When planning a garden for your space, it is important to keep in mind the growth potential of each plant. Also, make sure it blends in with your patio in a way that adds beauty and calm. You and your guests might avoid your patio entirely, if it has an overgrown tangle of branches poking your head and vines growing unfettered over everyone's toes.

For patios you should only choose the dwarf variety of fruit trees, which offers many choices such as orange, lemon, apple, apricot, nectarine, and even pomegranate! My grandkids love to check my dwarf nectarine tree when they visit, hoping there is a ripe one.

Almost any type of vegetable can be grown in a container on a patio, thrive and produce a good crop. You can choose from beets, eggplant, cucumbers, parsley, peppers, Swiss chard and of course, tomatoes. There are many "bush" varieties of plants now that grow less leggy and more dense for a concentrated crop.

An herb garden is a wonderful addition to your patio. Herbs are like mini vegetable plants that can be grown in individual pots or in a planter box and set on a shelf. Wherever a little space is available, your herbs can grow. They add wonderful fragrance that wifts through the air when a breeze is blowing! Additionally, if your patio has some ground soil you can plant mint or lemon thyme between stepping stones or along the patio edge where they will release fragrance when they are stepped on or brushed against. If you don't have ground soil, they can be planted in hanging baskets.

A small 10x10 space can easily hold a dwarf citrus tree, one bush tomato and one pepper plant, a cucumber vine tied strongly to a trellis in the corner, and a row of individually potted herbs such as parsley, chives, basil and thyme. Just keep an eye on growth and prune when necessary to keep everything under control.

Picking Containers for Vegetable Gardens and Fruit Orchards

Anything can be a container for your patio plants (pot, box, basket, can, bowl), but the size of the container and how well it provides drainage is important. Instructions are outlined in Garden Shed's "Clever Container Gardening Ideas" on Better Homes and Gardens website: "When choosing containers, remember that they need proper drainage to prosper. Drill drainage holes in the bottom of your planter. Then layer pebbles or shards from broken terra-cotta pots on the bottom to prevent the plant's roots from clogging the holes".

According to my trusty, dog-eared Gardening in Containers, "Choosing Containers" section, dwarf citrus trees should be planted in containers about the same size as its root ball. However, If the soil is well drained, it can be larger by 3 to 4 inches. They suggest bare root trees should be planted in containers the size of a 5-gallon can.

Since the container may be a long-term home for the tree, it is wise to sit the container on a platform with wheels or casters for easy movement as the tree gets larger.

From my own experience, vegetables grow well in containers with room to grow; however, it would look silly to plant a slow growing vegetable plant in a huge pot. Research the growth expectations for the plants, i.e., the height they are expected to reach and the estimated sprawl and chose the container accordingly.

Maintenance Tips for Your Container Garden

If you want to have a fruitful crop in your mini farmers market, you must be aware of the soil, fertilizing, pruning and watering requirements that are best for the types of plants you have chosen. Information is readily available in print form and online. One such site is Scotts Miracle-Gro's website.

You can make your own organic soil or buy a commercial brand, which might be composed of sand and an organic mixture containing all or some of the following: peat moss, shavings, sawdust or bark. Some gardeners add rich loam to the mixture to hold the water better, or some of their own compost. Once the plant is in the soil and container, it can be topped with bark chips or peat moss to further improve the moisture retention.

All plants require regular watering, with care given not to overwater but also to never let the root ball dry out completely. If the plant is wilting at all, water immediately, as all plants can dry out quickly in containers. Learning how to properly prune a tree is essential also, as is the seasonal timing of when it is done. According to the Fruit Tree Nursery Website, "If we don't prune them correctly, then we will have an odd shaped tree and unhealthy fruit".

Some fruit trees require fertilizer and others are self-fertile, so do your research. A weak solution of fertilizer and water can usually be applied to vegetable plants every other watering. The best advice I ever got was to just look at the plant. If it is growing and bursting with new little green shoots and buds, you are probably doing things right. If it looks sickly, you might need to step up your game and expend a little TLC.

You Are the Gardner!

There are many plants perfect for your container garden, but making a success of it depends on you. Good plant choices that are thoroughly researched, along with consistent, loving care will provide delicacies you'll have on the family dinner table in no time....and YOU can take all the credit!

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Simple Tips: Caring for Your Plants

How to Care for Your Potted Plants

Whether you purchase your plants from your local flower shop or you raise them from seedlings, here are a few tips to help you along the way. Most people are concerned with sunlight exposure and watering schedules. And they should be! These two factors are the most important care you can give. These two factors will cause your plant to either thrive or die.

Potted plants' watering schedules will vary depending on the type of plant and the conditions around the plant. First, follow the directions given on the package of seeds or on the plastic stick. Then, to determine the watering schedule follow these simple rules: If the air around the plant is moist and humid the plant will need less watering. If the environment is dry the plant may need more watering. To check the soil push your finger into the soil approximately one inch deep. If the soil feels moist the plant does not need watering. Check your plant again in a day or so. If the soil feels dry, water accordingly.

It is very important not to over-water your plants. If you notice the leaves or stem beginning to yellow, that means the plant is getting too much water. If you notice the plant beginning to wither, that means the plant needs more water. It is better to keep the soil well-drained and a little on the dry side than to over-water. Using quality soil works wonders. Use soil rich in minerals.

For most potted plants plenty of sunlight exposture is ideal. Plants should be exposed to as much natural sunlight as possible. They should be placed so that they can have sunlight throughout the day.

It is ideal to have your plant in the ground so that "Mother Nature" can take care of the sunlight exposure and watering schedules. Having your plants outside is best but if you decide to raise them inside for a while follow these simple tips. Good luck!

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