Keep Bad Bugs Away from the Garden

Getting the spring garden started properly can be a challenge. One thing you'll likely encounter during the growing season is insect pests in the garden. When you're planning the garden layout and content, add a few plants help deal with this issue and keep the bad bugs away.
You can also include plants that attract good bugs, those that do away with the crop munching bad bugs often found in the garden. Plant for the battle of the bugs, you'll find the good ones generally win.
This organic form of pest control is simple. With the right timing, you can have several plants growing that either repel the bad bugs, attract the good bugs or both.
Garlic
Plant garlic in autumn or late in winter, depending upon your USDA Hardiness zone. The smell of this easy to grow plant drives away many flying and crawling pests such as aphids, which love to pierce and suck on new, tender plant growth.
If, for some reason, you don't want to grow garlic in the garden, you can still use it as a pest deterrent. Crush a few cloves, mix with oil and apply it by spraying on or around growing vegetables to repel bad bugs.
Plant garlic sparingly and only plant near plants that normally experience insect damage, such as those of the cruciferous clan. Too much garlic can keep away the good bugs you wish to attract to the garden.

Painted Daisy
Painted daisy perennial flowers, botanically called Tanacetum coccineumor Pyrethrum roseum, repel many bad bugs in the garden. These pretty flowers also repel browsing animals that may damage crops by munching on them. The repellant properties of this flower are so beneficial that petals of the white variety of the painted daisy are dried for use in the organic insecticide, Pyrethrum.
Growing painted daisies keeps pests away from nearby plants. Tender plants of this variety may occasionally be bothered by aphids or leaf miners. Treat with a garlic or soapy spray if you see these insects damaging the young painted daisy.

Nasturtium and Marigold
French marigold flowers are useful insect deterrents for both the ornamental and vegetable gardens. Marigolds also repel mosquitoes and kill bad nematodes in the soil.

The perky, spring blooming nasturtium flower is a powerhouse for repelling bad bugs in the garden. Wooly aphids, cucumber beetles and white flies avoid areas where nasturtiums bloom. The yellow flowering variety is particularly useful for trapping aphids. Sunflowers can also draw aphids from more valuable plants.

Attract pollinators and other useful insects to the garden by planting lavender, bee balm and petunias. Other plants that may attract good bugs to the garden include borage, basil and hyssop.
Experiment with other highly fragrant or strong scented plants in the garden. Success will depend on where the garden grows and what bad bugs may be waiting to attack, but from these selections you're likely to find success at keeping the bad bugs away.

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Home Remedies for Garden Pest Problems

As a Master Gardener I have been trained in Integrated Pest Management (IPM), which is simply how to get rid of garden pests more than one way. Sometimes chemical usage is the best option and sometimes organic means is the best way to go. As a long time home gardener, I lean towards the organic methods to deal with garden pest problems in my home garden. If you prefer an organic garden, try these home remedies for dealing with common garden pest problems.

Woodland Critters Repellent

Rabbits, raccoons, turtles, deer and other small woodland critters enjoy nibbling on tender, tasty garden plants. Mix up this home remedy pepper spray that will make the plants less tasty to keep the critters away. 

Place 2 cups of any variety of hot pepper (fresh, dried or mixed) and 2 cups of water in a blender and blend until smooth. Boil pepper water for 5 minutes on stove top, then strain through a piece of cheese cloth to remove pepper seeds. Pour into a spray bottle and add a few drops of liquid dish detergent. Spray hot pepper mixture on the lower leaves and stems of garden plants once a week, it won't hurt your plants but it will repel the woodland critters.

White Flies

You know there's a white fly infestation when a white cloud appears to be hovering over your garden tomato plants and/or houseplants. Get rid of the white cloud with this simple home remedy: Cut 2-inch strips of yellow plastic from a recycled container (yellow milk jug, anti-freeze or laundry detergent jug) and coat the strips with any type of cooking oil you have on hand. Place these home-made 'sticky traps' on and around the plants infested with white flies. White flies find the color yellow irresistible and with flock to the strips and become stuck in the oil. Remove sticky traps as they become full and replace with new ones until all the white flies are gone.

Slugs and Snails

Sap-sucking slugs and snails will suck the life out of garden plants unless you get rid of them. Use this easy home remedy and save your plants - Place several shallow tuna or cat food cans in garden soil so that the rim is slightly above soil level. Fill the cans with cheap beer. Slugs and snails are attracted to the yeast in the beer and will crawl in for a drink and drown. Earwigs (black bugs with pinchers) that invade gardens are also attracted to the yeast and will drown themselves while quenching their thirst. 

Place beer-filled, shallow cans on patio or porch to get rid of slugs and snails that are infesting container plants.

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Get Rid of Bugs on Houseplants

If your houseplants aren't looking as healthy as they once did, your houseplants might be infested with bugs. Examine the soil and the undersides of leaves, and look for telltale signs of insects. Look for the bugs themselves as well as tiny webs, cotton-like tufts, sticky residue, or scaly lesions. These are all signs of a bug infestation.

If you discover your houseplants have a minor bug problem, you can try home remedies to get rid of bugs before they cause irreparable damage. If your houseplants are severely infested, home remedies probably won't help. Although you may not want to get rid of plants you've had for a long time, it's best to dispose of them before the bugs spread to healthy houseplants.
Try the following home remedies for minor insect problems. These home remedies are safe around pets and kids, and they are an effective way to get rid of bugs on houseplants without harming the environment.

Precautions to Consider
Avoid using soap products on plants if your home isn't air-conditioned during hot weather, and avoid placing plants in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight magnified by soap bubbles can burn foliage.
Also, don't use home remedies that contain spice or rubbing alcohol on flowering indoor plants. These home remedies can damage delicate blooms.

After allowing these remedies to remain on the leaves and stems of plants for several minutes, follow up by misting them with clear water in an effort to prevent damage from soap scum, strong spices, and astringents.

Spice and Soap
If bugs on plants seem especially difficult to get rid of, try a mixture of hot peppers and vegetable oil soap. Puree a hot pepper in a blender along with a clove of garlic, and add one and a half cups of water and one tablespoon of liquid vegetable oil soap. Put this mixture in a spray bottle, and spray the foliage of indoor plants. Don't forget to spray the underside of leaves where bugs can hide.

Oil Soap Spray
Vegetable oil soap can be a very effective home remedy for getting rid of insects on indoor plants. Soap suffocates bugs. To make this solution, combine one tablespoon of vegetable oil soap with two quarts of water. Put this mixture in a sprayer, and be sure to cover the tops and bottoms of leaves as well as the surface of the soil. Since this is a mild remedy, it might be necessary to repeat the application in a few days.

Rubbing Alcohol
Dry out bugs and eradicate them by coating stems and foliage with rubbing alcohol. Simply apply rubbing alcohol to cotton balls, and delicately clean the leaves and stems, but avoid using rubbing alcohol on young tender growth. Bugs that come in contact with the rubbing alcohol with dry out and die. Don't forget the undersides of leaves where bugs tend to hide.

Soap Suds
Soapsuds can be an effective home remedy for getting rid of insects on indoor plants. Simply squirt a little biodegradable dishwashing soap, not detergent, in a clean bucket or sink. Create soap bubbles with a strong steam of water, and cover indoor plants with the bubbles in an effort to suffocate harmful bugs.

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Insects on Houseplants

Recognizing, Treating and Preventing Insects on Houseplants

I am an Horticulturist and for 36 years I worked in interior tropical greenhouses. I specialized in interior tropical plants; houseplants. Many of my houseplants are gems I grew form small cuttings that have developed into large, lush specimens. Even though my home does not have a great amount of natural light, I selected the types of plants that would grow well in the amount of light I can provide for them. I have many plants in my home and have put them in groups of gardens in different rooms where the light levels are the highest. These gardens are groupings of plants that take the same light levels and the same water requirements. The plants are in decorative pottery that enhances the color of the leaves of each plant as well as the color schemes of the individual rooms. They are a focal point upon entering the room.

Of all the web sites I visited in reference to houseplant insects, I have not yet found one that gives a thorough description of how to get rid of insects once and for all, or how to prevent them in the first place. These next few articles in this series will list all the methods I use to keep my plants healthy and insect free-or at least how I keep insects at bay. Keeping them totally insect free is next to impossible. The bugs are out there and they will get to your plants at one time or another. That is nature's way. I will help you to learn how to identify them and what to do when you see them on your plants. The articles will be in the order that my experiences find those infestations hardest to destroy with least harm to the plants.

As I was learning about plant maintenance throughout the years, I learned the importance of clustering like plants together to increase the humidity around the grouping, as well as in the room. This clustering is great in providing humidity but it is also one way for insects to spread easily from one plant to another.

Those insects that affect houseplants have mouthparts that penetrate the surface of the plant and suck nutrients from it. The breathing holes are on either side of the body, allowing the bug to breath while it is feeding. Mealy bug is an insect covered with a white, sticky, waxy-like substance that protects the soft, brown body within. It allows water to run off the body, having no effect on the insect at all. The egg sacs are the cottony-like sacs found along vein lines on the top and bottom of leaves as well as in the crevices of leaf nodes and stems. The egg sacs can also develop around the root ball inside the pot. The egg sacs start out as tiny flecks of a dust-like substance that floats on air currents and is carried though the rooms in your home. These sacs will travel until they hit a surface and then will adhere to that surface until the time is right for the eggs inside to swell and grow. These sacs can remain on a rough surface, such as the underside of a shelf or window sill for up to ten years waiting until temperature and humidity are right for growth and development.

Once an egg hatches, the miniature adult climbs to the nearest plant and inserts its mouth parts into the plant surfaces and begins feeding. It will remain this way for as long as the nutrient flow provides enough for the insect's needs. The insects multiply rapidly and within a few weeks, an infestation can cover a plant. If left untreated, the infestation will kill the plant in time. As the females lay more egg sacs, they will accumulate and with any movement of the leaves by wind or other disturbance, they will float on the air currents to other areas. The adults can also crawl from one plant to another and when the plants are close to each other, the spread of the insects is that much easier. Mealy can fall in to your watering can and fall in to the soil of other plants with the water. If a pet happens to brush an infested plant, mealy can fall on its fur and travel to the next food source by hitching a ride.

One of the major signs of mealy on a plant is a sticky glaze that may cover one or several leaf surfaces. This is the secreation of the insects that falls from an infested leaf above. This honey dew may fall on the flooring or furniture beneith the plant and dissolves easily with warm water.

Of all the insects that infest houseplants, I consider the mealy bug to be the most difficult to get rid if entirely. The main reason is because of the egg sac's ability to remain dormant for so long and still be viable. The treatment for this insect takes time, dedication and persistence. To treat an infestation, you need to make a total commitment to your plant. If you do not, the insects will win every time--garanteed.

Meal bug is a type of soft-shelled scale. I will cover other scale insects in the next article. The waxy-like substance covering the body acts like a shield against moisture, either evaporating or penetrating. This makes using some substances ineffective in harming the body beneath. Because the shells are soft, it is easy to kill the insects by rubbing them with you fingers and squashing them. This is the most effect method of killing the bugs without harm to you or the plant. They cannot develop and effective immunity to this method, although it is a bit messy. This is also the only truly organic method of killing the insects. The other alternative is with the use of chemicals.

One of the best chemicals that has an instant effect on the insect is rubbing alcohol. It immediately dissolves the waxy covering exposing the body and it dies very quickly. This must hit the body to be effective and has no lingering power to affect any other adults or egg sacs. It only works for mealy bug and will not affect any of the other insects that attack houseplants. The alcohol evaporates very quickly so it does not harm the foliage unless it is used in too high a dosage. I often put the alcohol in a spray bottle and spray the foliage to the dripping point, trying not to saturate the soil or the delicate tips, as the alcohol can burn new foliage. Rinsing the leaves after spraying helps to minimize leaf burn on the older leaves.

Horticultural oil is also very effective in killing meal bug. The oil covers the mouth parts, causing the insect to suffocate. This is also an effective way to kill them as the insects cannot build up an immunity against suffocation. There is, however, no chemical that is totally safe and not-toxic. The whole point of the chemical is to kill, and the only safe part comes with using it according to the manufacture's recommendations. I have seen on too many occasions how the excess of these chemicals have killed the plant before it has affected the insect population.

Alcohol is effective and safe if you use it every couple of days rather than daily. For a really heavy infestation--one where the insect seems to be everywhere on the plant, you will need to us the three above methods to be even a little bit effective in getting rid of the problem. First, spray the horticultural oil on every part of the plant. You need to spray in an area where the residue will not harm pets or other people; a separate room or basement. Let the plant dry thoroughly before bringing it back to its place. Make sure you never use any insecticide when the plant is in sun as it will cause sever burning to the leaves.

This is the first step on day one. The second step is the next day to spray any egg sacs you find with alcohol. After the alcohol dries, you must use your fingers to eradicated any other individuals or sacs you find. Repeat this daily until day seven when you can spray with the chemical once again. You need to repeat this procedure daily, cleaning with the hands, using the rubbing alcohol, and spraying weekly with the insecticide until you do not find any new insects for two straight weeks. And, yes, this is a lot of work but if you are not diligent with the daily program, I can guarantee you will never get rid of the infestation completely. It will always come back after a bit.

But you must also clean the areas around the infected plants because the eggs can be on the shelves, curtains, windows, fixtures, or any other surface close to the plants. Be sure to remove all the plants from the area where they stay, and clean it well with a mild solution of warm soapy water. The sponge or cleaning rag is very effective in eradication of dormant egg sacs.

Many of my customers have mentioned using dish detergent as an insecticide. In all of my experiences with plants where the owner used dish detergent, even in a mild solution, resulted in sever foliage burn. And if the solution gets into the soil and is not rinsed out immediately, the roots can also suffer to the point of plant death.

Because this is such a time consuming method of eradication, the best method is by preventing the problem in the very beginning. As I stated earlier, insects are out there and they are looking for food. If you can take a few moments one day each week to carefully inspect each plant, you are in the best position to stop an infestation completely. Check each plant by looking on the top and bottom of leaves, checking the branches and stems, and looking at the soil; you will see anything that may develop in to something that may harm your plant. An infestation begins with just one or two individuals, and by killing any bugs with your fingers, there will never be a problem. If, of course, you let several weeks or months go by, then you may find a big problem. Again, it is being in this routine of careful examination that is most beneficial to you and your plants.

I cannot stress the importance of this weekly check because the consequences are so difficult to eradicate and all too often the plant dies long before the insect infestation. I have lost many prized plants to the treatment of an infestation. The chemicals take a toll on your plants, especially if the plants are weakened by an infestation. By giving your plants all the light they need, the proper amount of water they require, and an occasional solution of fertilizer, you can keep your plants healthy and strong and that will help them fight off any insects that may try to munch on them.

I want to mention one major factor that often is a cause for an insect infestation. This is placing your plants outside for the summer months. Because the United States has a tropical-like summer, tropical plants thrive when placed out side where they will get high light, high humidity, and gentle warm breezes--all the elements for a thriving plant. (See the article Placing houseplants outside for the summer.) This is not where the problem lies. It is when you bring the plants back in for the winter months that cause the plant to weaken due to the lower light and humidity levels. When the light level drops, the plant cannot sustain all the beautiful new growth of summer, and drops all the leaves it needs to balance the amount of food production with the amount of foliage. When being out side, the plant is also subjected to all the insects in nature, and combined with the weakened effect of the reduction in light, an infestation can gain hold even faster than if the plant remained inside all summer.

These are proven methods of eradication and prevention of insect infestations on houseplants. With patience and persistence, they work every time in helping to keep all your indoor plants healthy and strong.

Here is a list of indoor plants that mealy bug love:
-African Violets--streptocarpus (Cape Primrose)--All Succulents and Cactus--All Ficus--All Hdera (Ivies)--All Beginias ---Most Dracaena species--Clivia--Aglonema (Chinese Evergreen)--Coelus--Dieffenbachia (Dumb cane)--Anthurium Hibiscus--Poinsettia (Which is a succulent. See "Oh those Pionsettias!")--Philodendren and Pothos (Devil's' Ivy)
-All Genariads: Aescanthanthus Lipstick vine), Columnea (Goldfish Plant), Epescia
-Fittonia--All Citrus--Gardenia--Dizygotheca (Fales Aralia)--Fatsia (Japinese Aralia)--Gynura (Purple Passon)
-All Hedera (Ivy)--Strlitizia (Bird of Paradise)--Heliconia--Heptaplerurum (Arboricala)--Scheflera--Hypostes (Pola-a-dot Plant)--Mantra (Prayer Plants)Plectranthus (swedish Ivy)--Podocarpus (Buddhist Pine)--Saxifraga (Strawberry Begonia)--Senicia (Geraman Ivy)--cisus and Rhoicussus (Grape Ivy)--Tetrastigma (Chesnut Vine or Lizzard Plant)
-All Orchids.

As you can see, the list is extensive. In fact, there are very few of the tropical indoor species that mealy bug will not attack. So be on the loolout for them before they become a major problem.
HAPPY GARDENING

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What Is Sustainable Gardening?

The meaning of sustainable gardening often confuses people, who do not have a garden. They think that when a person has a sustainable garden it means that they grow enough food to sustain them and their family throughout the year, without relying on grocery store items. I can somewhat understand their confusion because according to Webster.com the word sustain means to supply with substance or nourish. This same meaning can apply to sustainable gardens. Certain factors and elements supply substance and nourishment to a garden in order for it to survive, with little effort provided from a gardener.

Sustainable gardens rely on things such as soil, fertilizer, water, and pesticides to produce and maintain healthy plants and vegetables. When a gardener has a perfect balance of these factors, very little work is needed to maintain the garden.

Soil

Poor producing vegetable and other garden plants can be attributed to poor soil. An unbalanced pH level, too many weeds, poor drainage, and nutrient deficient soil not only leads to plant problems but also will cause the gardener a lot of work just trying to keep the plants healthy. A gardener should have their garden soil tested each year and add soil amendments as needed to rectify the pH balance in the soil and nutrient content. Adding organic rich compost will also help to enrich the soil.

Weeds

No one likes to pull weeds, so keep them at a minimum by using weed barriers such as mulch or plastic. Consider planting in raised beds with graveled walkways. Mulch will help prevent water runoff and acts as a barrier to water evaporation. It also helps to keep the soil temperature from fluctuating, reducing the chances of rot damage. Over time, mulch will break down and added valuable nutrients to the soil. Fewer weeds will help eliminate pests, reducing the need for the use of pesticides. Plants will not have to compete with weeds for water if there are fewer weeds.

Water

Although having an adequate supply of water is an important requirement for a sustainable garden, water drainage must also be considered. Water saturation is an easy and quick way to kill healthy, producing plants.

Pesticides

Healthy soil and weed elimination are great ways to keep pests at bay. Another easy fix for unwanted bugs is companion planting. Many bugs are naturally repelled by specific plants. Doing a little research to find out which plants repel which bugs and then planting those plants can save a gardener time and money, as well as having chemical free produce.

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Companion Planting for a Greener Garden

An Organic Way to Control Pests and Build Better Soil

Every gardener will tell you that marigolds deter pests. They keep beetles away from your beans and squash bugs away from your zucchini. Tomatoes find marigolds very companionable because they help prevent root rot.

Marigolds, onions, garlic and mint all act as deterrents to pests that can harm your vegetables. But simply scattering these common pest controllers around your garden may benefit some plants, but harm others.

White garlic and onions work well with tomatoes, peppers and squash, but they will stunt the growth of your beans and peas. While marigolds deter many a pest, the dreaded red spider mite is attracted to them. Spider mites like arid climates and tomato plants. If spider mites give you grief, plant coriander with your tomatoes instead.

Dill will keep your cabbages healthy, but carrots will fail to thrive in its presence. Mint works well in your garden, but can be invasive, resulting in its becoming something of a nutrient hog.

Companion planting is an important part of your defense against pests in the garden. Pest control, though, is only one of the benefits of this centuries old practice.

Onions and beans may not play well together, but cucumbers, corn and eggplant can all be planted with beans. These vegetables all like the same soil and climate conditions, but don't compete for nutrients. Plant a little marigold to keep away the bad bugs and you'll have a bountiful bed.

The aforementioned vegetables are also seasonally companionable. That doesn't necessarily mean everything planted together needs to come to fruition at the same time.

Planting radishes or lettuces along side slower growing melons or spaghetti squash makes for efficient use of space. When the quicker growing radishes and lettuces are ready for harvest, the melons and squash will be in need of more room. This practice also helps keep your soil healthy. Akin to crop rotation and allowing fields to lie fallow, varying harvesting times helps prevent your soil from being overworked.

The combination of pest control, of shared conditions, and efficient use of land make companion planting a favored practice of the organic gardener. If done properly, companion planting can greatly reduce the need for pesticides, increase vegetable yields and keep your soil healthy through rotational plantings and harvests.

Done right, a companionable garden will enjoy more beneficial bugs and suffer from fewer pests. The growing season will be extended and your plants will be healthier. This results in more plentiful bounty as well as healthier soil.

Utilizing companion planting along with natural fertilizers and mulch, and using only natural pest controls when faced with an infestation, results in a healthy garden. As more gardeners return to organic methods of growing food and ornamentals, fewer chemicals from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides leach into the earth. This makes for a healthier planet.

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Natural Organic Garden Pest Control

It is spring once again and it is time to prepare your lovely garden. Spring is also the time when pests are lurking about. Chemical based pesticides and other harmful agents can definitely get rid of the pests, however, they will also kill off your plants. Organic pest control is the best way to go in order to ensure a healthy safe garden. This article will introduce you to some of nature's most helpful pest controls.

Biological Insect Control: There are many beneficial parasites and predators that are available to help you get rid of the unwanted pests that may be lurking around your garden. Naturals controls may already be in your garden, however, their numbers may be too small to concur all of the pests in your garden. You can commercially buy some of these natural controls or if you are fortunate, you may have just enough that naturally occur.

Flowers are important to have in your garden because many of the natural predators require nectar, water, and pollen. Flowers provide your predators with the attractions they will need. You should have a varied source of flowers that will bloom throughout the year. If mosquitoes are a problem in your garden, you can simply place a small briquette of Bti or Bti spray in a flowerpot next to the garden in order to help to control your mosquito problem.

Toads or frogs also are great predators when it comes to bugs. You can place them in an inverted clay flowerpot with a large hole in the rim. You can place the flowerpot in the shade near a water hole. The frog will enjoy all of the delicious bugs it gets to eat and you will love the pest control.

Braconids work as a natural predator wonderfully. These small wasps sting large pest caterpillars like tomato hornworms. They sting the caterpillar at the same time they are laying their eggs into the pest. When the eggs hatch and braconid larvae develop inside of the living caterpillar, the larvae will begin to eat through the caterpillar's skin. They immediately begin to spin cocoons that resemble small rice grains. The caterpillar is still alive at this point, however, it will eventually die. The adult wasps will soon hatch and attack other caterpillars.

Commercially Available Organisms: These types of organisms are kinds that can be bought in order to control garden pests organically.

Trichogramma are extremely small insects that sting pests eggs and then lays their own eggs inside of them. You can buy them on cards of about 400 parasititized eggs. When the trichogramma adults emerge from the eggs they will be ready to start their life cycle. You can make a trichogramma release stand for your garden out of a one-foot state driven a few inches into the ground. Halfway up the stake, apply a two inch band of petroleum jelly all around to keep ants away from the eggs. You can then staple the card with trichogramma to the side of the stake near the top. In order to protect the card from rain, staple a three-inch cardboard roof at the top of the stake. Many of the parasites will fly away within three days, however, there are late starters. You should lightly water the garden for about two weeks after the release to ensure survival. You can loose many of the trichogramma in hot or dry weather because they are best suited for humid and rainy weather. You should release the parasites every spring because their population decreases during the winter season.

Lacewings are net-winged, pale green insects that fly like butterflies. These natural controllers and their larvae are perfect predators to pests.

Ladybugs and their larvae are excellent predators of aphids and other pests and their eggs. You should provide the ladybugs with food called "wheast" in order to get them to remain in your garden. Wheast is usually available when you buy ladybugs, however, you can easily obtain the recipe for the concoction.

I hope that God willing this article will help you have a safe and beautiful gardening experience.

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Natural Pest Control Tips for Flowers

Natural pest control for your flowers is a safe, and cheaper alternative to harsh chemical insecticides. Most of the natural pest control tips for flowers that I am going to share require little to no money, but they do require time and diligence. It is also important that you continue to use each method regularly through the growing season in order for any of them to work.

Here are ten natural pest control tips for flowers that I use in my own garden to keep my flowers blooming and my garden healthy.

Watch For Signs

The biggest line of defense against pests is you. It is important that you watch closely for signs of pests in your flowerbeds and on your flowers because it is easier to identify what type of pest you have when you actually see it. Being able to identify your specific pest reduces the amount of time it takes to identify and determine the safest and natural way to rid your flowers of their pest.

Mulch to Reduce Pests

Most pests are soft bodied so the best pest control tip for flowers is to add mulch to your garden beds, around your flower plants. Hosta plants are very susceptible to slugs, which love eating the leaves and can strip your entire plant of its foliage. Slugs are entirely soft bodied though, and when you apply mulch it is nearly impossible for slugs to reach your plants.

Use Healthy Soil

Healthy soil produces healthy plants, and healthy plants are able to deter and survive pest damage. I always use organic soil in my flower beds and not just in my vegetable garden, and you can definitely see a difference. When you are using soil from other gardens, or purchasing your soil, make sure you look over everything to ensure that there are no insects or pest problems that you will be adding to your garden.

Weed Regularly

By weeding and keeping your garden free of garden debris, you are lowering the chance that you will have an infestation of pests and insects because you reduce the places where they can breed and feed. Keep a semi manicured garden at all times, which is one of the best pest controls for flowers.

Attract Good Insects

One of the most natural ways to control pests on your flowers is to attract bugs that are good for your flowers, and that love the pests preying on them. There is always something bigger out there that will eat whatever you are having a problem with. So, when planting your garden, be sure to learn about the different types of pests your garden can attracts and what they do not like in terms of other plants and insects. Co-planting to attract healthy bugs and deter pests all together is your best line of defense.

Use Insecticidal Soap

Another reason to watch for signs of pests is because most natural insecticides require that you only spray them and spray them fast. Insecticidal soap is a great pest control for flowers product, but it has its limitations and most of them rely on you and your ability to identify pests on your flowers. These soaps can kill the good insects that we talked about earlier, so you do not want to use it universally, over your entire flower bed. Instead locate the pests that are eating your flowers and spray them directly. This is also important because the soaps are only effective when you spray them and not when they are left on foliage or any other part of the plant.

Remove Pests Manually

It might not be the best garden chore out there, but getting down and dirty is often the quickest way to get pests off your plants. Even though I hate it I have been known to chase down slugs, beetles and a variety of other pests that are eating my plants now and need to be removed as soon as possible. Make sure you research exactly what type of pest you are dealing with so that you can determine the best way to capture and kill them.

Trap Pests Naturally

There are a lot of things that pests are naturally attracted to, you just need to figure out what they are. When slugs attack my garden I am quick to add beer traps for them to take care of themselves in. Just make sure that you are not harming the beneficial insects that find their way to your garden or that the traps you use are harmful to the soil or small children and pets.

Make A Natural Insecticide Spray

There are several easy to make and natural insecticide sprays that you can make. Most of them include vinegar, alcohol and/or hot pepper sauce. I have made up several batches, in different varieties and find that it reduces the problem considerably, but that I need to use the spray along with most of the other pest control tips that I have mentioned in order to get the best results.

Create a Barrier

For larger, non insect pests, an actual barrier is sometimes the only way to keep pests away from your flowers. With deer there are several plants and planting techniques that you can use to repel them from eating your flowers. Netting and staking flowers up so that they are not near the ground can deter smaller rodents and animals.

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Natural Techniques to Keep Pests Out of Your Garden

Keeping pests- insects, pets, wild animals- out of your garden can be hard work, especially if you don't want to use harsh, expensive insecticides. There are plenty of no-fuss solutions that can often be found in your cupboards. When facing an invasion, try some of these low-key natural gardening tips before reaching for an abrasive chemical.

Cats:

Cats often like to use gardens as their own personal playgrounds and/or litter boxes. For a non-chemical approach, try planting some catnip in special area just for them. Or plant a Ruta graveolens, commonly known as "rue" or "herb-of-grace". Dried rue is a great pest repellent, so this is an excellent plant to have on hand. This pretty plant has a unique odor that is a universal deterrent to cats. Black or cayenne pepper, mothball flakes, and borax soap can also be sprinkled around the garden to help keep cats out.

If you want to keep cats from using your garden as a litter box, try using chicken fertilizer or orange peels and coffee grounds worked into the top layer of soil. For an inexpensive, chemical approach mix ¼ cup shampoo, ¼ cup of disinfectant (such as Lysol© ) with two gallons warm water and spray over the area.

Another good idea is to cover newly planted beds with chicken wire so the kitties cannot dig them up. Use this method with one or more of the others and your cat problem should be solved!

Dogs:

Man's best friend can often be quite a nuisance in the garden! There are several commercial repellents available on the market, and the majority of them use the chemical components of moth balls or a citric base- ingredients you probably have at home. To make your own chemical dog repellent, mix moth crystals OR dried/crushed lemon or grapefruit rind mixed equally with rue (see cat section) and chili powder.

For something a little stronger, try this cayenne pepper spray: 2 tbs. hot sauce, 2 teaspoon. Cayenne pepper, 1 onion (chopped), 1 whole garlic (crushed), 1 quart of boiling water. Allow to steep 3-5 hours, and then use in problem areas.

Ants:

Make your own ant bait with 1 tbsp of yeast, 2 tbsp of sugar and 1 pint of water. Spread onto cardboard and place in hot spots around your yard. You can also place piles of grits or corn meal in and around the ant hills. Once eaten, the food expands inside the ant- not very nice, but it's quick and effecitive. Mint is also a good natural deterrent, making it a great addition to any garden.

Snails/Slugs:

If you're being invaded by slugs, it is probably because you water in the evening- slugs are most active at night and the love water. Just avoid watering in the evening, and it will cut the slug assault in half.

The quickest method of dealing with slugs is to sprinkle them with salt- a bit cruel, but it works. Beer traps also work well: bury a shallow, wide-mouthed jar up to it's neck near the garden. The slugs will crawl in and drown. There are also things you can use right in the garden to deter slugs, such as seaweed, lava rock, and coffee grounds. Seaweed is great for the soil and is a natural slug repellent- pile 3-5 inches around plants or perimeter of garden. It is very salty, so make sure the seaweed is not in direct contact with plant stems.

Rabbits and Mice:

Rabbits can quickly destroy a gardener's hard work, and mice can be quite a problem in vegetable gardens. Try mixing 5 tbs. of cayenne pepper (or use a bottle of hot pepper sauce) with a gallon of water and 1 tsp. of dishwashing detergent. Spray plants thoroughly. Mothballs also work great- place in an old butter tub, poke holes in lid, and place under plants around garden. You could even bury the tubs and cover lightly with dirt to keep kids and pets out.

Deer:

Deer will eat just about anything- plants, veggies, they like it all. While there are a few plants deer won't ear, it often varies from area to area. The best bet is deter the animals from the garden in the first place. The most obvious choice is a fence- make sure it extends partly underground and doesn't have gaps larger than six inches. Believe it or not, some deer can climb fences- so a tall, all-around fence is the best solution.

There are several natural deer deterrents, with the effectiveness varying on how quickly the deer in your area adjust to them. Try one or two techniques at a time and be prepared to get creative! Some frequent items used: mothballs, hair (human), dead fish heads, garlic, blood meal, soap, and fabric softener. Hang in bags of cheesecloth (or old pantyhose) around the garden. Lights, sprinklers, noisemakers, and flags can also be used. If all else fails, try planting some deer-favorites (azalea, daylily, tulip, beans, lettuce, etc.) in another, smaller area just for the deer.

As you can see, there are plenty of save, effective pest-control methods that can be made with little money or skill. While your garden will never be completely pest-proof, using these old-fashioned, no-tech approaches can make your garden a little less inviting to predators!

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