Gardening the Back to Eden Film Method Saves Time and Money

Hey Gardeners, if you've already heard about the Back to Eden gardening film than you're a step ahead of the game. I fell upon this film while sifting through YouTube videos on gardening. You can watch the Back to Eden Film online for free. It's a documentary about how you can layer any yard, anywhere in the world without tilling the soil, using wood chips, and have the benefits of using less water.

Some people don't want to do the research or don't pay attention to detail which have created critics of the method. This is not just throwing down wood chips and you're done, however it is simple. If you look at the section on How to Grow Your Own Organic Garden and throughout the movie it tells you that your first layer is newspaper (reduce weeds), compost (the free compost from our Orange Country landfill is great stuff), wood chips of various sizes and topped with chicken manure (or in my case we have a rabbit) - makes for a great garden and keeps the moisture in the ground longer, while also reducing the amount of weeds. However, make sure you plant your seeds or transplants in the soil/compost section, not in the wood chips as the roots won't have a solid enough foundation.

I realized I was sort of doing this method by accident. Since I don't have the 'back' to use a rototiller on my community garden plots I have been layering by default. One of the great things about being in a garden community (online or in person) I learned about free compost from our local landfill which has saved me a ton of money from buying soil in bags. In addition, I've been layering with the free hay bales that we get from our annual Fall Festival. The hay breaks down over time and I use them to surround the plots to reduce weeds. In addition, I was using vegetable scraps and rabbit manure for composting but now I give the vegetable scraps to the worms. I have a worm composting bin which makes a great circle-of-life where what I grow in the garden is what we eat, as well as the bunny eats and his 'stuff' goes back to the garden as compost as well as the scraps are fed to the worms and their 'stuff' goes back as worm casting compost. It turns out I've been doing this layering method for years without knowing that there was a movement called the Back to Eden Film method.

After watching this documentary on the Back to Eden gardening I finally realized why my garden did so well even though I was physically unable to manage my plots for nearly three months. I thought I was surely going to return to a lot of back breaking, ground digging work but to my surprise my garden had very little weeds. In addition, I could only depend on the rain that we had for water, which has been very low in our area for several years, yet my vegetables grew very well. I had covered the compost with hay, except where the plants were growing and the weeds were nearly extinct except for some of the areas that were not covered. However, even those parts which had compost that looks like dirt, as the wood chips are well decomposed at the landfill, only had a few weeds. You can follow this link to Back to eden film main site

I'm going to continue the Back to Garden Film method of gardening in my home containers on my patio and have already created some self-watering containers from buckets I got at the Dollar Tree store since they don't get rained on. I hope you'll try this method out and reduce your use of water and maintenance on your home garden. Let me know what you think or if you've used this method in the comments below.

Monica Lehua is a native of Hawaii and now resides in Orlando, Fla. She's taken some of the methods of gardening that she's learned from her family of agriculturalists: farmers and simple home gardeners and tweaked it to fit the central Florida climate. Need more information about muclhing? there are other articles about mulching your garden!

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Mulch 101 The Basics of Using Mulch

Mulch is a superhero in many gardens. It discourages weeds, retains moisture, regulates soil temperature, and prevents the top layer of soil from becoming dry and crusty. Some types of mulch also improve the soil as they decompose.

A variety of materials can be used, depending on budget, purpose, and desired appearance. For garden pathways and larger areas, I recommend placing a weed barrier down first. If this barrier is thick enough, the area will not have to be cleared of weeds first. Garden stores sell plastic barriers, but these will prevent water from absorbing into the soil and will quickly break down into small pieces of plastic. Instead, try layers of newspaper, cardboard, notebook or copy paper, paper bags, burlap bags, or old clothes that are 100% cotton. Soak any papers in water first so that they stay in place until you cover them with mulch. Otherwise, a slight wind will ruin all of your hard work.

Leaves are a popular mulch because of their availability. Shred the leaves first to prevent them from matting as much, which will prevent water and air flow into the soil. Leaves, however, are not recommended for very windy areas.

Wood chips and shredded bark are another popular mulch and will stay in place much better than leaves. For best results, allow chips to decompose for 1-2 years before using them in the garden. If using fresh chips, be aware that walnut and cedar chips contain a natural growth retardant that can inhibit the growth of your plants. Also, if fresh chips get mixed in with the soil at all, they will pull nitrogen from the soil in order to decompose. Many tree removal services will give you wood chips at very reasonable prices.

Other natural ideas for mulch are grass clippings, nut shells (rinsed if they were salted), small sticks, dried pea pods, straw, pine cones, and pine needles. For perennial beds that won't be replanted for awhile, broken ceramic pieces are an option. Pebbles, gravel, or small rocks are good choices for pathways.

3 inches of mulch is usually recommended, but there are some things to keep in mind. Mulch should be spread wide around trees, beginning a couple of inches away from the trunk. It should also not be piled right up to the stems of plants. To prevent mold growth and allow proper aeration, use a rake to turn the mulch occasionally. Add extra mulch yearly to replace any that has compacted, blown away, or decomposed. Selecting a mulch can be hard somtimes chek this article about diffrent types of Mulch. Other than that, enjoy your garden!

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Why Mulching is Important in Gardening

Proper mulching of your garden and flower beds will help your garden thrive and make it even more attractive in the process. Mulching is the use of a biodegradable material that is used on or around garden beds. Other materials that are not biodegradable can be used but your plants will not receive as much benefit.

Moisture benefits

Using a mulching material around flowers, trees and shrubs will help retain the moisture in the ground. Water will not evaporate as quickly and you will need to water less often. When applying mulch, do not over do it. An inch or so of mulching material will be enough without becoming too much.

Weed reduction

The same layer of mulch that keeps moisture in will help to prevent weeds from growing. Seeds that do not get sunlight when they first start to germinate will not thrive as well as they do in uncovered ground. For decorative garden areas, the use of rocks and pebbles will work nicely. While a rock mulch will not provide nutrients, the weeds that do pop up will be easier to see and remove.

Added fertilizer

Biodegradable mulches provide additional nutrients to the soil as they decompose. Fallen leaves make a great mulch cover and provide extra nutrients to the soil over time. Composted materials that do not include any seeds are also a great choice for mulching. When using materials that break down quickly remember to replace them as needed.

In addition, a good layer of mulch will protect the roots of your plants from excessive heat during the summer. The same principle applies during colder winter months; a layer of mulch over year round plants will reduce freezing damage. Strawberries will benefit greatly from a good cover of leaves in the winter. When spring comes be sure to uncover the tender plants so they receive good sunlight. Hay or straw is also commonly used for covering strawberry or flower beds in winter.

Newspaper can also be used as a mulching material for winter cover and for a layer of weed protection under a garden bed. Wood chips make excellent mulch for decoration around trees and shrubs. Keep in mind that wood chips can be attractive to termites and should not be used to close to the foundation of a home. One of the other nice parts of mulching is that you do not really need to go out and purchase mulching materials. Gather leaves, wood chips and other biodegradable materials and make your own.

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The Basics of Using Mulch

Using mulch around garden plants, trees and shrubs offers many benefits. Mulch helps protect the plant roots from temperature extremes, retains soil moisture and discourages weed growth. A proper layer of mulch also makes the garden more productive and healthier, while reducing the amount of maintenance required.

Mulches can be organic or inorganic materials. Leaves, bark, straw, crass clippings, compost and shredded garden debris are all examples of organic mulches, while inorganic mulches include stones, plastic chips, recycled tires, pebble and landscape cloth. Because organic mulches are natural materials, they break down over time, adding beneficial nutrients to the soil, and they need replaced more often than inorganic mulches.

Some organic mulches, like wood shaving and sawdust, can pull nitrogen from the soil as they break down. When using these mulches, gardeners need to watch plants for signs of nitrogen deficiency--yellow leaves and weak plants--and feed plants with a high nitrogen fertilizer as needed.

Gardeners can mulch around plants anytime of the year; however, when soil has warmed in the spring is the ideal time to apply a layer of mulch. Applying mulch after rainfall helps the soil retain moisture. Gardeners can add more organic mulch as the older layer decomposes during the growing season. No matter when gardeners set out plants, mulch should always be applied at planting time.

A final layer of much in fall helps protect perennial plant roots from the coming winter season. The amount of mulch to spread around plants depends on the type of mulch used. Mulches made up of small pieces should be spread in a thinner layer than mulches made up of bulkier materials.

Thinner layers of mulch should be spread over heavy soils, like clay, while thicker mulch layers are best for sandy soils. As a rule-of-thumb, a one to four inch layer loose mulch is generally sufficient. Keep in mind that dark-colored mulches absorb heat and warm the soil, more than light-colored mulches. Gardeners should not use dark colored mulches around plants with roots like cool soil.

When placing mulch around plants, leave space around the stem, trunk or crown of plants. Placing mulch right up against plants hinders air circulation and can lead to root, stem or crown rot.

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Eco-Friendly Ways to Keep the Weeds Out of Your Vegetable Garden

How to Control Garden Weeds Organically

All of us who enjoy vegetable gardening find ourselves constantly battling the weeds. While weeds can be easily dealt with using herbicides, applying these types of chemicals is a short term solution that has a pretty significant impact on our environment.

A more eco-friendly solution is by controlling weeds the natural way. Natural weed control is a four part process that is easy to do and benefits the environment as well as making gardening more enjoyable.

Don't plant weed seeds unintentionally

The first step in getting weeds under control is not to plant weed seed unintentionally.

When purchasing top soil, potting mix, compost, mulch, grass or even wild flower seed, make sure that the package is marked as "weed free." Unless the package is especially marked as guaranteed weed free, you may find yourself unwittingly adding weed seeds to your vegetable or flower garden. The "weed free" varieties cost more but are definitely worth it.

Bird feeders are another "weed generating" culprit. While we like to plant feeders close to our gardens to attract those bug-loving birds, the seeds dropped from feeders can generate a pretty healthy crop of weeds in the flower or vegetable beds. Bird feeders should be placed at least 30 feet away from your beds, in an area where dropped bird seed won't germinate into something you'd rather not have growing in the garden.

Mulching to reduce the growth of weeds

Mulch is a loose material that is placed onto the surface of your vegetable garden. Mulch can be either non-organic such as carpeting, stones, or perma bark or made of organic materials like bark chip, grass clippings, straw, or newspaper.

Mulch is very effective in keeping down the growth of weeds since it acts as a sort of barrier between the weed and the outside world. Since the weed can't break through a thick layer of mulch to reach the sunlight, it eventually dies back.

One of my favorite low cost mulch alternatives is two layers of newspapers, topped with a couple of inches of grass clippings. The newspaper is placed liberally through out the garden, and is effective in holding back the weeds for up to 6 weeks. Most newsprint is made with nontoxic soy based ink and is safe for use in the vegetable garden. Avoid using the colored pages however, since the colored ink may be toxic and can harm both plants and the soil.

Pull weeds when you first spot them

It's much easier to pull weeds when you first see them sprouting, rather than waiting until the weekend to do those weed pulling chores. Hand tools such as a Japanese digging tool (called a Hori Hori) or a dandelion digging tool are very effective in pulling out weeds by the roots.

The best time to pull the weeds is an hour or so after the garden has been watered. The soil is loose and crumbly after watering, and weeds can usually be pulled up with the fingers without damaging the vegetable roots in the process.

Control the watering

Weeds also benefit from watering and setting a sprinkler system in the garden means usually means that you are watering more than just the vegetables. By controlling where the water goes through use of a soaker hose or lined irrigation channels, you will slow down the growth of weeds along the perimeters and foot paths of your vegetable garden.

The best method of controlling weeds is to prevent them from getting a toe hold in your garden in the first place. By mulching the beds, controlling the watering, and pulling weeds when they are first spotted, you will discover how easy it can be to keep the vegetable garden weed free the eco-friendly way.

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Free Ways to Mulch a Vegetable Garden

Where to Find Free Mulch for the Vegetable Garden

Mulching a vegetable garden means to cover a garden bed with a layer of natural (usually plant) material. Mulch helps to keep down the weeds, slows down the evaporation of water from the soil, and protects a plant's roots from erosion or freezing temperatures.

Most people equate mulch with those expensive bags of bark chip that can be purchased from the garden center. While this type of mulch is pretty to look at, it's totally unnecessary for gardeners on a budget. If you are looking for free ways to mulch a vegetable garden, these tips can save you money.

Grass clippings & newspaper. If you read the daily paper and mow the lawns on weekends, then you've got a steady supply of free mulch. Newspaper and grass clippings makes for a fantastic weed barrier and as it breaks down, will improve the texture of the garden soil as well. To mulch with grass and newspaper, you'll need at least a weeks worth of papers (no colored inks or ads) and the clippings from your lawn or that of a neighbor's. Do NOT use clippings that have been treated with pesticides or herbicides.

1. Place several layers of newspaper in the vegetable garden. Make sure that the paper does not touch the stem of the vegetables.

2. Sprinkle grass clippings on top of the newspaper to a depth of two or three inches.

3. Repeat every 3-4 weeks as the newspaper breaks down.

Used carpeting. Hit the freecycle.com for this fantastic resource. Used carpet keeps out the weeds while letting in water to the roots and is durable enough to last through several seasons. To use carpet as free mulch, merely cut the carpet into strips and place around your vegetable plants and in the furrows.

Animal bedding. With chickens and rabbits on our homestead farm, we have an endless supply of free sawdust and straw which makes terrific mulch while adding nutrition rich animal manure to the garden as well. If you don't have pets of your own, ask a pet-loving neighbor if you can have his discarded sawdust or straw. (Do NOT use kitty litter!)

Sheets of Cardboard. If you don't mind a little dumpster diving, free cardboard is another great way to mulch a vegetable garden. Cardboard strips can be used around the base of the vegetable plants and down the furrows as well. To camouflage the cardboard, a sprinkling of green grass will do the trick.

Mulch is an important step in boosting the health and production of your vegetable garden. You'll quickly discover that tapping into these free resources for mulch will boost your vegetable yield while saving both money and time.

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Selecting Garden Mulch

Is Organic Mulch Right for Your Garden?

Most gardeners know that applying mulch around the landscape can provide numerous benefits to your garden plants. Not only can this be an attractive addition to the garden, but adding mulch can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend on routine maintenance. By blocking out light, mulch suffocates weeds; thus, knocking out your weeding chores. Mulch retains moisture as well, limiting the need for constant watering. During periods of heavy rain, mulch can help prevent soil erosion by keeping the soil firmly in place rather than allowing it to wash away. In this same respect, mulch aids in the prevention of soil splashing onto plants. Mulch helps to keep your plants cool during those hot spells and insulates plants in the cold months of winter. Best of all, organic mulches, such as bark or pine needles, can also improve the soil. As these types of mulches begin to break down, nutrients are slowly added to the soil, encouraging healthier plant growth and even beneficial insects, like earthworms.

There are, however, downsides to mulches. Fortunately, the good far outweighs the bad. Unwanted garden pests, such as slugs or snails, can sometime hide beneath mulch. Eventually, these creatures will make their way to your plants, where they may cause considerable damage. Moisture-loving diseases can also be spawned by some types of organic mulch, especially when it's placed too close to the plants. Therefore, it is always better to keep all types of mulch at least 6 inches from the plant itself. Another downside to mulch is color. Light-colored mulches are not as effective in warming the soil; however, dark-colored mulching, such as black plastic, has a tendency to get too hot, resulting in possible burning of the plants' roots.

When you are choosing mulch for your garden, it is generally dependent on the type of garden you have as well as its surroundings. Your mulch should not only complement the garden design but also the surrounding landscape and hardscape (home exterior, walkways, patios, etc.). You should also consider how your mulch will be used in the garden. For instance, if you have a sloped area in your gardening area, you might want to consider using some shredded bark here. Not only will it look attractive but will also help in preventing soil from washing out. If you're looking for something strictly for visual impact, consider attractive mulch such as bark chips, cocoa hulls, or pebbles. In areas that will not be easily viewed by others, choose mulching types like newspaper, grass clippings, or plastic.

Determine the size of the area you want to cover well before you obtain your mulch. Different areas might consist of different types of mulching material so the amount you need will vary. You should also note the availability of particular mulches within your area. For instance, some types of mulch, such as oyster shells, may be limited to only certain places. Therefore, you may incur additional costs for these types of mulches if you want to have them shipped to your area.

Generally, organic mulches are preferred. These types of mulches break down over a period of time, adding nutrients to the soil. The only downside to organic mulches is the fact that they must be replenished each year, usually in the spring. They can also retain too much moisture in climates more prone to rain. Excessive moisture can cause plants to rot and encourage insects such as slugs, neither of which anyone wants. Therefore, if you live in an area with excessive moisture, choose mulch better suited for your climate, such as gravel. Organic mulches include a variety of options, with the most common being bark or wood chips. Other forms of organic mulch include shredded leaves, grass clippings, hay or straw, pine needles, rotted manure or compost, sawdust, newspaper, and cocoa hulls. Most organic mulches should be applied after plants are well established (4-6 inches tall).

Shredded leaves are by far the easiest and most recommended form of mulch. A layer of around 2-3 inches is sufficient for weed control. Apply to trees, shrubs, flowers or vegetables. Leaves decompose quickly, improving the soil, and are easy to obtain relatively cheap, even free for those with abundance. They are also attractive and well suited for naturalized or wooded areas. Grass clippings are another great source of organic matter. Place a 2-inch layer around your vegetables, fruits, flowers and herbs for adequate weed control. However, be aware of its downsides; too thick of a layer can result in mold as well as too much heat, which can damage your plants. You can also use grass clipping in the compost pile. Hay and straw are other alternatives. Approximately 6 inches of hay or straw can provide good weed control; however, these materials decompose quickly and must be replenished continually to keep down weeds. Try to avoid any hay that contains weed seed. Alfalfa hay is best, supplying nitrogen to the soil as it breaks down. Hay is readily available in rural areas, but city dwellers may not be able to obtain it easily. However, straw can be purchased at most garden centers, unfortunately, it can get quite costly. Both types of mulches work well for vegetable and fruit plantings.

Rotted manure and compost is sometimes used as mulch as well. About 2-3 inches of either one should work for weed control. However, these could actually encourage some weed seed growth; therefore, it may be best to use as fertilizer mixed into the soil as they are great sources of organic matter. Pine needles look right at home in natural settings around trees, shrubs, and flowers. They are readily available in garden centers and not too expensive. The only downsides to using pine needles are its potential to become a fire hazard in severe drought as well as its acidic qualities. Bark makes extremely attractive mulch, especially around trees and shrubs. It also looks nice on paths or walkways. Apply at least 2-3 inches for weed control. Shredded bark breaks down faster than bark chips and works well on problem areas such as slopes. Bark can normally be found at garden centers and other landscaping retailers. Wood chips can be used as well, though this may not be as attractive. Wood chips can be obtained for free or low cost from tree-pruning professionals. Sawdust is another option but is usually best left for pathways. Often this type of mulch is more expensive but readily available from sawmills. All forms of bark and wood deplete nitrogen from the soil as they are loaded with carbon. They should also be renewed each year.

Newspaper might seem an unusual form of mulch, but it works anywhere in the garden and is great for controlling weeds. However, don't use the glossy sections as these may contain harmful agents. Newspaper may not look attractive on its own so use another form of mulch on top, such as straw in non-visible areas or cocoa hulls for visual appeal. Laying mulch on top will also prevent the paper from blowing away. Cocoa hull are very attractive. They can retain up to 2 ½ times their weight in water, making them ideal for use as mulch. However, these, too, have downsides. Cocoa hulls may be prone to mold and can attract rodents. You should also check beforehand to make sure that the hulls have not been treated with any type of pesticide. When dry, cocoa hulls are lightweight and susceptible to blowing away, may require thick layer to prevent this. Another disadvantage may be the limited availability in your particular area.

Inorganic mulches are long lasting but will not add any nutrients to your soil. You can, however, use organic mulch, such as newspaper, and apply non-organic mulch, such as gravel, over top. Organic mulches include stone, gravel, pebbles, plastic sheeting, landscape fabric or felt paper, oyster shells, and even aluminum foil. Some types of inorganic mulches are quite attractive; however, many are not. They can also get expensive.

Stones, gravels, and pebbles are great for use in dry gardens. They are quite attractive, coming in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and forms. Generally, these are best applied over plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric to prevent weeds from popping through. The downside is cost. Many of these can get quite expensive. Plastic sheeting is an effective weed barrier but should be covered with more attractive-looking mulch, such as crushed gravel. Place around flowering plants, trees, and shrubs. You may want to add slits throughout the sheeting, however, to allow water to pass through. The downside to using plastic sheeting, especially black plastic, is the fact that it raises soil temperature; therefore, in areas prone to hot weather, such as in the South, you should cover it with lighter-colored mulch. Landscape fabric is great just about anywhere. You can leave it as is or apply attractive mulch on top. Landscape fabric is effective for controlling weeds; yet, allows for both air and water to pass through easily. Its only downside includes deterioration from prolonged sun exposure, if left uncovered. Occasionally, aggressive weeds have been known to pop through as well. Felt paper is much the same as landscape fabric with one exception; it does not allow air or water to pass through. Consider poking holes throughout if this is your mulching choice. Also apply light-colored mulch on top as this can get extremely hot.

Oyster shells are another possibility for use as mulch. Oyster shells and even seashells can be quite attractive as mulch. Both are lightweight and when obtained in bulk, can cover a wide area. However, these are usually limited to coastal areas and may be expensive to obtain in other sites. Gardeners, on occasion, have been known to use household items for mulch, as with newspaper. But were you aware that aluminum foil is one such item? This can be used for several years and then recycled. It is good for controlling weeds and reflecting light; however, it does not allow air or water passage.

There are so many benefits to using mulch in the garden, and there are just as many types to choose from. With careful research and planning, however, you can easily find the type of mulch that will suit all of your gardening needs.

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Weed Control: Newspaper can Help you with Weeds

If your waist and lack of muscle tone don't allow you to bend over like you used to, weed control could be a problem. It was for me, until I turned my newspaper into a weed killer. Why? It's weed control without toxic chemicals and it only has to be done once for the growing year. I know, I'm lazy. If you are too, maybe your newspaper can turn into a weed killer too!

I must say this is easy. I will walk you through it. Get your soil the way you want it. If you need to add manure and such, do it. Once you have your soil the way you want it, get out the hose and start watering. I usually keep the water on for at least a half an hour, but an hour is ideal. Water long enough to give the soil a good soaking. You can dig a hole after watering to see just how far down your water went.

After letting the water soak in good, get out your newspapers. Why are we using them? Newspapers won't let the sunshine through to the weeds waiting in your soil. Once they get a good shot of sunlight, they are off and growing. It is important to use "several" newspapers when using this weed control. The thicker the layer of newspapers, the better weed control you will get.

TIP: WET YOUR NEWPAPERS WELL SO THEY DON'T BLOW AWAY!

I try to use about a half inch deep layer of newspapers. This keeps the new growth of weeds from sprouting and it keeps those bigger perennial weeds from coming back. I figure if you are going to go to the trouble of getting down on those hands and knees, you might as well make it worth your time and effort. Do not be stingy with the newspaper that is going to be your weed killer.

Don't use advertisements and don't use the shiny colored paper. I like to stay with just the newspapers. Lap your layers so there are no gaps for a weed to sneak through. Then give the final newspaper layers another drink of water.

I also like to cover the newspapers with a mulch. I usually use grass clippings in my garden and rock or bark in the flower gardens. It looks better when the papers are covered and it helps to keep them in place should they get dried out.

Using newspapers in this way helps to encourage earth worms in your garden! They are like having little helpers that nourish your soil and help keep it from compacting.

Okay, it takes a little time to get this done. But once you have it in place, think of all the time you will save using this weed control. Your newspaper really will be turned in to your weed killer!

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Improve Your Yard Organically: 14 Simple Environment Friendly Gardening Tips

Most people believe that the basic idea behind organic gardening is to avoid using pesticides and chemical fertilizers on your lawn. While this is certainly some of what organic gardening is about, it's not the entire picture.

Your yard is really an ecosystem. Damage one part of the ecosystem through pesticides, everything else in the cycle is damaged. Keeping chemical use to a bare minimum is a first good step. Wise planting and watering practices will also help keep your yard healthy and sustainable. A healthy yard requires less chemical help and eventually it can get along with nothing more than fertilizer. This is the goal that we all strive for with organic gardening.

Controlling weeds organically

Weeds are one of the biggest reasons that people use yard chemicals. To keep down the growth of weeds, use mulch around your planting beds and beneath your shrubs. Some people prefer wood chips or bark chip. You can also use layered newspaper topped with a thick layer of grass clippings. Mulching retains moisture in the soil, which means less watering.

Maintaining a healthy lawn is also important to managing lawn weeds. Weeds grow where the grass is thin or patchy. Over seeding these areas will help choke out the growth of weeds.

For dandelions, try using a special dandelion digging tool to lift them out. If the soil is moist, they'll come out very easily. A Japanese gardening tool works for weeds found in planting beds. This thick, long handled knife has a serrated edge on one side, and makes weeding a snap.

If you have weeds growing in the cracks of your sidewalks or stone walk ways, a slick trick is to pour boiling water over them. This does an incredible job of killing the weed clear down to the root.

To kill large areas of weeds or grass in your vegetable garden, alley way or in places where you want to create flower beds, stretch sheets of visquine over the area. The heat from the sun will kill the vegetation beneath within a matter of a few weeks.

Fertilizing organically

Maintaining a healthy yard is important is you want to reduce the amount of chemical additives. While there are many organic fertilizers on the market, there are less expensive alternatives.

One easiest method is to drop the clippings when you mow. A season's worth of grass clippings are the equivalent to one application of commercial fertilizer. Keeping the grass slightly longer will also allow it to grow deeper roots, and slow down the rate of water evaporation.

Compost is nature's perfect fertilizer and is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Best of all, it can be made free in your own yard. Composting is mixing together nitrogen rich "greens" such as grass, with carbon based "brown" waste such as leaves. Through the use of a compost system and the help of microorganisms, these materials break down into a rich, earthy material. Compost will improve the texture of your soil and provide nutrition to your plants.

If you live out in the country, bags of steer or chicken manure are wonderful supplements to your yard. I apply the stuff liberally over my lawn and flower beds in the summer.

Bug control organically

As my yard has shifted more towards organic gardening methods, pest problems aren't as frequent as they used to be. A healthy collection of birds, spiders and ladybugs do a fabulous job of taking care of most of my yard pests. For the occasional pest, there's some easy ways to get rid of them.

Control snails and slugs in your garden by trapping them with small saucers of beer. Set the rims set at ground level so it will be easy for them to crawl in.

To trap earwigs, set damp paper tubes around your beds during the night. By morning, the tubes will be filled with the little critters.

Make collars out of plastic yogurt containers to prevent bugs from nibbling away at the stems or climbing up into the leaves.

Aphids can be washed off rose buds using a garden hose. Cradle the bud in your hand and gently rinse until the aphids drop off. Since the aphids will crawl back to the buds within a few days, you'll need to repeat the process a couple of more times. For tenacious aphids, mix up a solution of soapy water and apply with a sprayer. Once you've permanently stopped using bug spray on your gardens and lawn, you can safely add live ladybugs to your yard to also help reduce the aphid population.

Set out bird feeders. I have a large population of birds that are drawn to my yard by the feeders and stick around for the bugs.

Think about replacing some of your plants with those that are pest resistant. Low water plants tend to be disease hardy and resistant to pests. There are also a some tree varieties that are also disease and pest hardy. Ask your City Forester for recommendations.

There's no denying that gardening organically is a lot of extra work at first. But over time, it does get easier and soon you'll notice your yard becoming healthier and less prone to disease. Weeds seem to become less of a problem. And, you'll discover birds and other small animals returning to your yard to help with pest control, pollination, and reseeding.

The public library is full of information about natural gardening methods and it's benefits on the environment. You might also want to contact your local county extension office; their Master Gardeners have a wealth of up-to-date information and will be invaluable in getting you started.

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Use Newspaper to Keep Weeds From Growing in Your Yard

Newspaper Weed Prevention

 I'm not young anymore so, when I call someone old, they really are. And, I love tips from an old person who has lived many years, and learned many things. So, when an elderly guy that I know told me about a trick for keeping weeds out of my yard, I was definitely listening. I don't have time for all of that weed-eating, and I certainly don't want to pay to have it done, so I took his advice: use newspaper to keep weeds away. I'll tell you how.
 

True, you would expend too much energy and time if you decided to use the newspaper technique on a large garden. However, for along sidewalks, around trees, and around bushes, the newspaper trick works great. You'll spend much less time with the weed eater and more time enjoying your yard.
 

Plant what you want and add nutrients to the dirt. After that, cut newspaper in strips, and put them around the plant. Put several layers of newspaper in a stack, cut them into long strips, and then wet each stack. Lay one strip on the ground, next to the plant, and continue in that manner until you've encircled the plant, bush, or new tree. Cover the newspaper with mulch and forget about it. The newspaper will prevent weeds from coming up around your new plant.
 

Even if you're not putting in a plant, the newspaper trick can help you keep weeds away from sidewalks and such. Dig a narrow trench, a few inches deep, and lay the wet newspaper strips down in it. Go from one end to the other with the wet paper. Cover with soil or mulch and worry not at all about weeds.
 

There are other materials that work about like the newspapers. Try wet paper bags, black trash bags, or ordinary plastic. With the chosen material, you can prevent weeds from growing around flower gardens, sandboxes, swing set legs, walkways, and many other places. It takes a good bit of time to install all of that newspaper, but over the years, you'll appreciate that you did so.
 

Taking care of a yard, especially one that has flowers, bushes, trees, and more, can be challenging and time-consuming. But you'll save yourself hours of work each month by using newspaper to do the work for you. You get rid of weeds, don't have to use any chemicals, and get to relax rather than work in the yard each weekend.
 

Supplies:

Newspaper

Hand spade

Mulch and/or dirt

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