Gardening the Back to Eden Film Method Saves Time and Money

Hey Gardeners, if you've already heard about the Back to Eden gardening film than you're a step ahead of the game. I fell upon this film while sifting through YouTube videos on gardening. You can watch the Back to Eden Film online for free. It's a documentary about how you can layer any yard, anywhere in the world without tilling the soil, using wood chips, and have the benefits of using less water.

Some people don't want to do the research or don't pay attention to detail which have created critics of the method. This is not just throwing down wood chips and you're done, however it is simple. If you look at the section on How to Grow Your Own Organic Garden and throughout the movie it tells you that your first layer is newspaper (reduce weeds), compost (the free compost from our Orange Country landfill is great stuff), wood chips of various sizes and topped with chicken manure (or in my case we have a rabbit) - makes for a great garden and keeps the moisture in the ground longer, while also reducing the amount of weeds. However, make sure you plant your seeds or transplants in the soil/compost section, not in the wood chips as the roots won't have a solid enough foundation.

I realized I was sort of doing this method by accident. Since I don't have the 'back' to use a rototiller on my community garden plots I have been layering by default. One of the great things about being in a garden community (online or in person) I learned about free compost from our local landfill which has saved me a ton of money from buying soil in bags. In addition, I've been layering with the free hay bales that we get from our annual Fall Festival. The hay breaks down over time and I use them to surround the plots to reduce weeds. In addition, I was using vegetable scraps and rabbit manure for composting but now I give the vegetable scraps to the worms. I have a worm composting bin which makes a great circle-of-life where what I grow in the garden is what we eat, as well as the bunny eats and his 'stuff' goes back to the garden as compost as well as the scraps are fed to the worms and their 'stuff' goes back as worm casting compost. It turns out I've been doing this layering method for years without knowing that there was a movement called the Back to Eden Film method.

After watching this documentary on the Back to Eden gardening I finally realized why my garden did so well even though I was physically unable to manage my plots for nearly three months. I thought I was surely going to return to a lot of back breaking, ground digging work but to my surprise my garden had very little weeds. In addition, I could only depend on the rain that we had for water, which has been very low in our area for several years, yet my vegetables grew very well. I had covered the compost with hay, except where the plants were growing and the weeds were nearly extinct except for some of the areas that were not covered. However, even those parts which had compost that looks like dirt, as the wood chips are well decomposed at the landfill, only had a few weeds. You can follow this link to Back to eden film main site

I'm going to continue the Back to Garden Film method of gardening in my home containers on my patio and have already created some self-watering containers from buckets I got at the Dollar Tree store since they don't get rained on. I hope you'll try this method out and reduce your use of water and maintenance on your home garden. Let me know what you think or if you've used this method in the comments below.

Monica Lehua is a native of Hawaii and now resides in Orlando, Fla. She's taken some of the methods of gardening that she's learned from her family of agriculturalists: farmers and simple home gardeners and tweaked it to fit the central Florida climate. Need more information about muclhing? there are other articles about mulching your garden!

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Starting Your First Organic Vegetable Garden

If spring 2014 marks your first effort at organic vegetable gardening, a little preparation can mean the difference between bounty and wasteland. Many definitions of organic gardening focus on what the organic gardener doesn't do: use synthetic fertilizers. That definition is a little too simplistic, according to Organic Gardening, which says it's equally important to "work in harmony with natural systems and to minimize and continually replenish any resources the garden consumes."

Plant Native
What does that mean, exactly? When planning the garden, take into account the climate and growing conditions. Choose plants that will thrive in the conditions of your garden. This will mean a higher probability of success and less intervention by you.

Mulch and Fertilize
The North Carolina Cooperative Extension notes the importance of continuously improving garden soil by adding compost. This increases the soil's ability to support beneficial microbes and to retain water.

Never confuse composting and fertilizing. Adding organic fertilizer is essential for plant nutrition. Organic gardeners can make their own organic fertilizers using this formula provided by Mother Earth News: combine seed meal, agricultural lime, gypsum, dolomitic lime (or dolomite), kelp meal and bone meal, rock phosphate or high-phosphate guano. If not inclined to make your own, you can buy pre-packaged organic fertilizer.

Avoid GMO Seed
Take care in choosing seed to avoid introducing genetically-modified varieties into your garden. This is particularly important with respect to plants like corn. By 2012, 88 percent of corn grown in the United States was genetically modified, according to PhysOrg. The Non-GMO Sourcebook is a helpful guide to finding non-GMO seed.

Keep Pests at Bay
Perhaps the trickiest aspect of organic gardening is maintaining a chemical-pesticide-free garden. If your garden plot has had pesticides applied even in the distant past, the residues may find their way into your produce, the National Pesticide Information Center warns. The residues may include non-garden applications such as termite control. If you are using composted manure, make sure the manure hails from pesticide-free farms or you may be unknowingly importing pesticides.

Laboratory testing can be expensive, NPIC says, and it suggests doing homework to identify potential past applications of pesticide and being as specific as possible in searching out results.

Should you use organic pesticides in your organic garden? Lou Homs, a graduate student from the University of California at Berkeley, provides a helpful explanation of the benefits and pitfalls of organic pesticides. These pesticides are made from natural sources and not synthetically manufactured. That does not necessarily make them safe, Homs notes. Recent studies show about half of the natural chemicals used in organic pesticides are carcinogenic, the same fault found with nonorganic pesticides.

Gardening without chemical pesticides is possible, according to Harlequin's Gardens. Success in pesticide-free gardening requires a knowledgeable gardener. After choosing the right crops for the conditions and upon nurturing the soil appropriately, the likelihood of pests appearing declines. When bugs do appear, take care to distinguish the harmless from the harmful. Nontoxic horticultural oil can be applied directly to harmful bugs.

Other natural pest control techniques include floating row covers (polyester fabric on frames designed to keep insects off plants), pheromone traps, sticky traps, insecticidal soap, sprays containing the bacterium Bacillus Thuringiensis, or parasitic nematodes.

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Preparing for Your First Organic Garden: Soil Considerations

So you've decided to try your hand at organic gardening. While it will be hard work and time consuming, the rewards far exceed the cost. It pays however to enter into the art and practice of organic gardening with an open and informed mind.

One of the first things to consider when starting your organic garden is the characteristics of your soil. This will help determine which plants will thrive in your garden, how you need to care for them, and what you need to do to alter the environment to create the best garden you can. Thankfully, most everything you need to know can be described in four characteristics: drainage, existing vegetation, color and texture. This article will give you an introduction to these characteristics, and what they can mean for you and your garden.

Drainage

A soil's drainage is it's ability to move water through the soil, and away from the plants in question. Most plants require a well drained soil. While there are some exceptions, most plants do not do well in a situation where their roots are constantly inundated or flooded with water. Therefore it's important to determine the drainage rate of the soil in your proposed garden. The most effective way to do this requires a shovel, a watch, and three buckets of water. Start by digging a hole in your garden, approximately 1 foot deep. Take the first bucket of water and fill the whole, and record how long it takes for the water to completely drain from the hole. Wait five minutes and fill the pit again with the second and third buckets, recording the time it takes for complete drainage in both the second and third case. Then average the results.

The faster the drainage rate, the more well drained your soil is. If the rate is between 0 and 4 minutes, the soil is considered to be excessively well drained and plants may require more frequent watering. If it takes between 5 and 15 minutes to drain, it's still considered to be well drained, and most plants will thrive in this environment. Soils that take between 16 and 30 minutes to drain are considered moderately well drained, and still may be considered good choice for a number of different vegetation. If the soil takes longer than 30 minutes to drain it is most likely bordering on a poorly drained soil, and some alterations may be needed to encourage proper drainage.

Existing Vegetation

It is important to remember that your garden is a complex system of interactions between the plants, animals, soil, water and air. Look at the area that you want to use for your garden now. What is thriving there? Is it primarily grass? Or does it have a robust selection of weeds? Also, you'll need to dig down and look at the first six inches of soil. What kinds of bugs and worms do you find there? Are the roots strong and pliable? These are both signs of a healthy and vibrant soil.

Soil Color

Another great indicator of the quality of your soil is its color. In fact, the color can indicate how well its drained, its organic content, and even it's overall chemistry. If your soil is black, dark brown or a dark red, that indicates that the soil is well drained and has a relatively high organic content. If the soil is blue green or gray that is usually a sign that the soil is poorly drained and may have an anaerobic chemistry. Finally if the soil color is primarily yellow, the soil is probably very poorly drained. Also be a look out for mottling and streaking in the soil-- that may be an indication of seasonal drainage problems.

Soil Texture

Finally take a look at the texture of the soil. The texture of the soil can give you an indication of the soil type, it's overall drainage. For the most part, soil texture can be defined by three different extremes - sandy silty and clayey. What's more, the soil texture can be easily determined simply by picking up a handful of soil.

Start by running your soil between your fingers. Does it feel gritty to the touch? Then it's primary composition will be sand. A smooth feeling is indicative of silt, and clay has a slightly sticky texture. Next is the ball squeeze test. Take a small amount of soil, moisten it, and roll it into a small ball. Apply some pressure. If it breaks apart with a slight pressure it has a loamy or sandy texture. If it stays together but changes its shape easily than it has more silt than anything else. Finally if the soil holds it's shape with even moderate pressure it probably has more clay in it than anything else.

While it's not the only thing to consider when putting together your organic garden, understanding the characteristics of your soil is probably the first step in bringing out the best in your new organic garden.

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Planning and Preparing Your Organic Garden

Organic Gardening for Beginners

Tools That You Will Need:

There are a few basic tools that everyone needs to have in order to keep a healthy garden. These include a pointed shovel, fork, garden rake, cultivator, garden hoe, trowel, and a pair of shears or garden snips. (The fork is not absolutely necessary and can be replaced with the shovel or the rake in most cases.) Good tools can be purchased at a local hardware store for around five to ten dollars apiece. Expect to spend anywhere from twenty five to thirty dollars for a complete set of necessary tools. Some optional tools include a wheelbarrow, push mower, flathead shovel or spade, flower pots, and a compost tumbler. For organic gardening, you will need a compost pile or composter. 

Caring for Your Garden Tools:

Unless they are cared for properly, tools will not last through even one season. Tool care is simple and easy to follow. First, and most importantly, NEVER leave tools outside after using them. Sun and moisture will cause the wood to warp, crack, and loosen. When the wood dries out too much and becomes loose, the head of the tool will not stay on and the tool becomes useless and will have to be thrown away. Keep all tools inside a shed or garage to protect them from the elements. Secondly, keep your tools clean and dry when you are not using them. Dirt and water will cause them to rust. If you have tools that require sharpening, buy a sharpener and keep it in storage where you keep your tools.

When to Begin:

Gardens are usually begun in spring, but some gardens can be begun in the fall. Begin planning your garden during the winter. Seeds should be started indoors around six weeks before the last spring frost. Find a warm place to start your seeds where they can get plenty of sunlight after germination. In our home, we have a small atrium attached to the house. A garden shed with windows that is protected from freezing will also work. If you do not have an area that is warm with plenty of light, you can grow them in a garage with a grow light which can be purchased at a local hardware store. Seed packets should state when you need to begin your seeds and how you should go about doing so.

Will You Need a Greenhouse?

Greenhouses are useful, but not necessary. Also called hothouses, these structures help keep plants warm out-of-doors before the planting season begins. Sunlight comes into the greenhouse through the walls and ceiling and remains inside the greenhouse as heat. You can build your own greenhouse with a few simple tools and supplies. Instructions for building a large passive greenhouse can be built here. For a simpler greenhouse, purchase some heavy chicken wire and plastic sheeting. Bend the wire over your plants in a a half-circle over your plants so that it creates a dome. You can then lay the plastic sheeting over your wire for protection. tie the plastic to the wire with string and bring it around and down to close off the ends. Secure the greenhouse to the ground with stakes. You can pull the stakes up and lift the cover for watering, or you can run a soaker hose through the covered garden and turn it off and on when watering is needed.

Choosing Your Crops:

The most important thing about choosing which crops you will grow is location. Obviously, if you live in Alaska, you won't be able to have a full harvest of watermelons. First, decide all of the plants you would like to grow and make a list. When choosing your seeds, make a note of the weather conditions each plant prefers. If it does not coincide with your region, you will have to cross it off of your list. Some plants have different varieties that grow in different types of weather, so check out each type before you choose. Some plants need lots of water and should not be grown in dry areas. Other plants require cool weather and should not be grown where the summers are too hot for them to grow. As you look up the climatic conditions for each variety, make a note to the side of each strain you can grow in your garden.

If this is your first garden, you should be careful not to grow any plants which require too much care and are not good for beginners. Asparagus is one such plant. Asparagus takes three years to mature and become established. This is an example of a plant that is best left to the experienced gardener. Some good plants for the first-time gardener include pumpkins, watermelon, carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cucumber, potatoes, okra, beans, peas, corn, leeks, broccoli, cauliflower, celery, squash, turnips, beets, and radishes. There are also a variety of other plants that are suitable for a first-time garden. Herbs are almost always easy to grow and are very good for first-time gardeners.

Where to Plant?

Location is one of the most important factors in having a successful garden. You must choose a place that gets full sun at least 2/3 of the day and has good drainage. For anyone not familiar with gardening, good drainage means that it is on a hill or on flat level ground. Don't plant in a ditch or at the bottom of a hill or anywhere water drains or will collect. Too much water can drown a plant. If you are planting next to a house, you will need to plant away from the edge of the roof or install a rain gutter over the area where the roof slants down over the garden. Rainwater pouring off of a roof will damage plants and cause excessive runoff which will wash away your topsoil, exposing roots and killing your garden plants (and I can say this from personal experience).

Try to grow your garden as far from any trees as possible. Trees will compete with garden plants for water and can sometimes create too much shade, not to mention covering the garden in leaves in autumn. Plant the garden near the house so that it will be accessible to water and easy to take care of. Gardening should not mean taking a trip out across the pasture. Think about crucial elements when planting. Is it too near the composter? Insects that feed on compost would also love to feed on your garden plants. Is it near the garage? That might make it easier when toting tools and supplies back and forth.

Planning the Garden:

The beginning gardener should know how much room a garden takes up. While planning the size of the garden, you will need to assume that you can plant about 1 1/2 plants per square foot. Carrots and smaller root crops can be planted three per square foot. Spreading plants such as squash, watermelon, pumpkin, and cucumber need an extra square foot or two for growth. If you plan on growing climbing plants such as beans or peas, you will need a wall to grow them against. A trellis can be built if there is no wall. An eight by eight foot garden can grow anywhere from sixty to seventy plants which is quite a lot. While planting, be careful not to plant plants too far apart or too close together. Taller plants should be planted in the back where they will not block sunlight from the rest of the garden. Medium plants go in the middle and short plants in the front, etc.

Heirloom Seeds:

It is important to purchase heirloom quality seeds when buying seeds for your garden. Heirloom quality means that the seeds are not hybrids, have not been chemically treated, and have not been genetically engineered in any way. Heirloom seeds are seeds from plants that have been grown for hundreds of years and are chosen because they are healthy, grow best, and taste the best. Unlike manufactured seeds, heirloom seeds are not produced to make more fruits than the plant can sustain without chemical fertilizers, and have not been irradiated to make them sterile so you can't grow the seeds that will be produced by the plants you will be growing. Heirloom seeds produce healthy plants that provide lots of vitamins and minerals and are the best tasting. Always opt for heirloom quality seeds when purchasing or you may have to buy new seeds every season.

Info on Companion Planting:

Companion planting means planting different varieties of plants together in order to protect them from pests. There are different ways you can use companion planting. First, it is important to mix the crops together in the garden. Try not to plant more than four or five of one type together. Plants that are grown all together spread disease and pests easily. Many inflictions tend to favor a particular plant and will have a hard time spreading to the other plants if there are other types of vegetation between them. In nature, plants are mixed together, making it more difficult for insects to find the plants they prefer. Another type of companion planting uses plants to deter insects. Marigolds, garlic, and mints are perfect for keeping plants out of the garden. Plant these plants around the perimeter and throughout the garden. I plant lots of them around plants that are particularly prone to insects. Marigolds are the best and are very easy to grow. Wormwood keeps away pests well, but is very poisonous and should not be grown around children or household pets.

A third type of companion planting is done by planting together plants which complement each other. Complementing plants deter insects from each other and also add nutrients to the soil that the other needs. 

Below is a list of companion plants:

Cabbage - Plant mint and nastrium to keep away cabbage moth and improve soil.

Corn - Lamb's Quarters.

Fruit Trees - Plant Nastrium to keep away pests.

Radish - Plant Nastrium.

Raspberries - Plant Garlic to keep it in good health and keep away pests.

Roses - Plant Garlic to keep it in good health and keep away pests.

Tomato - Plant Basil, Mint, and Dill to keep away various pests.

The fourth type of companion planting is using plants as a trap. The bait plant is planted near other plants to lure insects. These plants can be pulled up and the insects destroyed. Lamb's Quarters and Nastrium are good plants to use as lure plants as they attracts aphids.

Digging Up Your Garden:

By now you should already have chosen where you want to plant your garden. To get the soil started, you will need a shovel. Mark off the boundaries of the garden with a garden hose or with stakes with string tied between them. Using the shovel, dig down as deep as it will go and then pull the shovel handle back to pull the soil up. Move the shovel over and dig another spot. Keep doing this until all of the soil in the garden has been dug up. It should be a bit clumpy. Don't worry about removing any grass.

Next, you will need the rake or the cultivator. I rake up the soil the best I can so that it is broken up into smaller pieces. If you have a tiller, this will work even better. I prefer to do all of the work by hand. Remove any rocks you find. Rocks will ruin the growth of your root crops such as carrots, onions, potatoes, leeks, and radishes. If you have lots of very large rocks, they can be used to line the edges of the garden. If you are having trouble tilling because the soil is too hard, use a shovel to break up the large pieces at first. Areas with clay soil, like where we live, tend to be harder to till. You may want to try digging two to three days after it rains as the soil will be softer. Do not dig up muddy soil. This prevents the soil from aerating and is bad for both plants and earthworms.

Preparing the Soil:

Garden soil must be rich in nutrients. You will need compost and manure when treating your garden. I buy about 4 bags of compost and two bags of cow manure for every 64 square feet (8x8 feet) of garden. Bags of compost and manure cost between one and two dollars each at the garden store. If you make your own compost, you will not need to buy compost. If you keep animals, chicken, goat, and horse manure can be used instead of cow manure. Chicken manure can burn plants, so only use about four cups of chicken manure for each 64 square feet. Do not use manure from meat-eating animals such as cats, dogs, and humans. If you have very sandy soil, you may need an extra bag or two of compost. Spread these out evenly over the soil and rake them in with your garden rake and your hoe. A tiller can also be used. Do not water the garden until you have planted your seedlings.

The garden will need some kind of edging to keep the outside plants from creeping over the borders. Edging will save you a lot of time in the long run, so it is best to get it put in early. You can make a fancy border out of logs, bricks or stone. If you need a cheap alternative, however, garden stores and hardware stores sell metal edging for about a dollar per twenty feet.

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Organic Gardening 101

A Guide to Someone Interested in Organic Gardening

Spring is around the corner, and now is the time to start planning your garden. Planting a garden can be a very rewarding activity. Not only do you get off your butt and out of the house, you get some exercise and you get to appreciate the natural beauty of growing your own food. You get to witness the various stages of plant growth. At the end, you have the reward of wonderful tasting food, which is not only better quality than you can get at the supermarket, but even perhaps better for you. You know what has gone into your food and you won't have to worry about toxic chemicals being absorbed into your body.

I am not a typical green, organic, Prius driving, mantra chanting, granola eater. I drive an SUV, own guns and use Roundup on pesky weeds in the front yard. I do, however, advocate organic methods when it comes to growing your own food.

Benefits can be gained through organic food gardening. Your food will taste better. You aren't using super high concentrations of nitrogen to accelerate plant growth beyond natural ability. Your garden will thrive on an organic diet, as the beneficial bacteria and insects that complete the ecosystem that nature built, will not be killed off.

Organic gardens cost much less: when you have your natural ecosystem in place it requires less maintenance. You're not always out there putting out chemicals trying to keep things in balance. You're using compost rather than expensive fertilizers. These fertilizers are needed more and more as your growing seasons of non organic gardening depletes natural nutrients, and thus are not sustainable.

The best part about Organic Gardening is that is it healthier. You do not risk putting pesticides or synthetic fertilizers into your body.

If I have convinced you that organic gardening is the way to go, I encourage you to do more research on this, and find the best methods that suite your particular area. The following is a description of what I do to raise a wonderful, high yield, organic garden.

I have a 25 by 25 foot garden space. Every year, production increases as the soil gets better and better.

I start off this time of year by combing through seed catalogs to see if there is anything I am interesting in growing that wouldn't be available at a local nursery. There are thousands of esoteric items not available as seedlings. I recommend Territorial Seed Company out of Oregon.

There are many who proclaim a no-till garden is the only way to go. They argue that not tilling the garden allows your underground eco-system to fully develop. If you are interested, I suggest you research. I am too lazy myself to go through this process. Every winter, in mid February, I use a propane torch to burn the weeds and remaining plant life away. I also believe this can kill harmful plant pests, such as insect eggs and various plant diseases.

Once my garden is charred, I throw on my compost and an organic mixture of fertilizers (mentioned at end of article) and till them in with my roto-tiller.

For the seeds I am interested in, I try to get them by February and sprout them six to eight weeks before planting. Here in Portland, Oregon, I plant mid May, so March 1^st is the time for me to plant the seeds. I use grow lights and seed trays with warmers. A greenhouse may be used.

In early May, I select my plants from the nursery. I choose these instead of seeds because they have such a high success rate. If you pay good money for large, healthy stock from a reputable nursery, you will have the best results.

Before planting, I am sure to lay out my rows of soaker hose. A soaker hose not only uses much less water (up to 70%), it delivers water much deeper into the roots where it is needed. You will actually find higher production using soaker hoses rather than broadcast watering, and much lower water bills. Soaker hoses look like black garden hoses with pores, where the water sweats through.

Be sure to water your garden well, but over watering can cause tomatoes to crack. During the peak of summer I usually turn the soaker hoses on every other day for a half hour. If you see your leaves wilt, you will need to water more.

Corn is a great garden vegetable to grow. It does take more resources, however. You will need to heavily water corn nearly every day, and you will need to heavily fertilize. In addition to your organic mixture in your soil, for corn you will need to apply fish emulsion, or fish fertilizer weekly for best results.

Home grown corn is very different from supermarket purchased corn. The sugars in corn start to break down into starch the second it is harvested. If you grow your own corn, it is best to get your water boiling for cooking the corn, and once it has reached the boil, pick your corn. The less the time the corn spends off the stalk before cooking, the better. You will be amazed at the quality of your homegrown corn; you'll never want to buy corn again.

Corn can be hard for the home gardener, often because home gardeners fail to fertilize or water sufficiently as mentioned previously. Also, the seed packages will tell you to not soak the corn kernels before planting. This is because if you were to put a soaked kernel into a dry ground, it will fail. If you soak the kernels in water, however, and then plant them after 24 hours of soaking into a moist soil, you will have a good jump start on the growing. I soak my kernels, and usually get 12 foot stalks (depending on variety.).

Roma tomatoes are great to grow, as they are easily canned and can be used year around and made into sauce. There are also many more tomatoes to experiment with. There are literally hundreds of varieties. Some great for sandwiches, some great for salsas, and some not only taste wonderful, but are very unique and beautiful looking. I would encourage one to try several varieties of heirloom tomatoes, and some hybrids. Did you know that you can grow black or white tomatoes?

Once you plant tomatoes put your tomato cages up around the plant if they are vine type tomatoes. Some tomatoes grow along the ground and a cage will not make any difference.

Other crops I have huge success with are beans. I plant bush beans and poll beans along my garden fencing. Beans are another wonderful addition to your dinner table. A great characteristic of beans is that they don't take too long to mature and they produce over a period of several weeks. That means that while you are waiting all summer for potatoes, at least you'll have am ample supply of beans. Beans, however, do not like excess fertilizer. While you would fertilize all your other vegetables with an application of fish emulsion every two to three weeks, you won't want to apply supplemental fertilizer to your bean crop at all. Your initial soil amendments will be enough. If you supply your beans with too much nitrogen, they will grow really thin and too fast. Beans are nitrogen fixing, meaning that the roots actually supply nitrogen into the soil.

Carrots are also a great crop to plant. You must be sure that your soil is very lose with plenty of sand so your carrots can grow.

Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage are known as cold weather crops. They are best planted later in the summer and harvested in the cool fall weather. Shade is also a good idea for these crops. Follow all planting instructions that come with your seeds or plants.

If you are like me and love garlic, you are already too late. I am sorry to inform you. Garlic can be started with the same soil preparations as your vegetable garden, but must be started in the fall, usually around Halloween and no later than Thanks Giving. Bulb need a cold shock. Once planted in the fall, garlic bulbs can be harvested in early to mid summer.

Weeding is a challenge with organic gardening. Since you will not be using herbicides, you will need to manually pull rogue weeds. This is necessary, as weeds can choke out your plants, and starve them of water and nutrients. Weeding can be minimized with the use of the before mentioned soaker hoses, as water will be very localized. Mulch can also be used between rows to smother weeds. Otherwise weeds can be easily contained by constant upkeep. Eliminating small weeds before they have a chance to grow large roots is much easier.

Organic Fertilizer Mix:

I learned about this mix from an article in Mother Earth News. This article was titled: "A Better Way to Fertilize Your Garden" by Steve Solomon. This is the recipe:

4 parts cotton seed meal

¼ part agriculture lime, finely ground

¼ part gypsum

½ part dolomitic lime

1 part bone meal

½ part kelp meal

Mix these thoroughly. You can obtain these at your local farm or feed store. In Portland, I can get all these items at Portland Concentrates. Use 4 quarts mixture per 100 square feet.

Good luck with your organic garden. It can be hard work, but trust me, it is very rewarding. Once you try gardening, you will probably look forward to every summer, filled with garden delight.

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Organic Vegetable Gardening the Lazy Way: My Lazy, Cheapskate Gardening is Environmentally Friendly

When some gardeners start talking about organic vegetable gardening, it sounds like a cult, and an expensive, time-consuming one at that. It doesn't have to be hard to be organic. My vegetable gardening methods are "organic", not because I have any deep convictions about using organic versus synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, but because I'm a lazy cheapskate. If I can prevent weeds without buying and applying herbicides, grow vegetables without buying and spreading fertilizer, and keep the bugs and other pests under control by letting them kill each other, I'm happy. My budget is happy too.

The vegetables grow in raised beds made from the sides of discarded water beds held in place by 4x4 posts: it's cheap and sturdy. The picture shows the bed, a hopeful quail looking for vegetables to eat, and the soaker hose that minimizes water use. That's an eggplant in the foreground, in late March. By July it was 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide.

Organic Weed Control: My vegetable garden's organic weed control consists of a 4 to 6-inch deep layer of mulch, made by running the prunings from my trees and bushes through my chipper-shredder. Only a few weed seeds will come through the mulch, and they are easy to pull. The mulch also reduces the amount of watering I have to do by preventing evaporation.

The drawback to the mulch is that it attracts birds. The quail love to dig holes in it to make shady resting spots under the vegetables. The curve-billed thrashers and the towhees dig through it hunting for bugs. They are excellent bug controllers, but they throw mulch out of the beds and leave huge holes in the dirt. I have to throw the mulch back into the beds a couple of times a week.

Organic Fertilizer: Tree shreddings composted with the high-nitrogen beans that fall from mesquite trees and the grass clippings from the lawn, make good fertile soil for the raised vegetable beds. I mixed compost 50/50 with the alkaline native dirt the first year and just keep digging more compost into the beds every spring.

Where I deviate from the "organic" party line is with soil amendments. The local desert dirt (it doesn't deserve to be called soil) is alkaline, low in available iron, and high in clay and even the water is mineral-laden and alkaline. Vegetables don't grow well in it, even with lots of compost. I'm not going to waste time making compost tea, and I'm not going to waste money on various organic supposed remedies like bacterial infusions, Mycorrhyza inoculants, volcanic sands, and such. The dirt needs a higher pH and the most economical way to get it is to mix liberal quantities of soil sulfur into it. I also add a small amount of ammonium sulfate to the beds about mid-summer to give them a nitrogen boost.

What Grows Well: With this low-effort approach to organic vegetable gardening, I grow herbs and vegetables that are hard to find locally, or too expensive in supermarkets. The hot Arizona summers limit my choices because the usual garden vegetables can't survive the heat.

Tomatillos thrive and produce gallons of fruit.

Until the squash borers struck, the squash were thriving and producing a dozen or more edible squash a week per plant. With some screen to keep the adult borers from laying eggs on the stems, they should do better this year.

Artichokes grew and thrived, but they took up too much space to be practical. I gave the plants to a gardener with more room.

There was way too much okra! Okra is an African plant that apparently loves 110-degree days, and alkaline soil. A short row of 4 plants produced more than I could stand, and even the co-workers were losing enthusiasm for it.

Eggplant, like okra, grows almost too well. I harvested 15 to 20 softball and larger eggplants a week starting in mid-June. Much of it ended up going to friends at the office.

What Did Not Grow Well:

Tomatoes were not a success, probably because they were in full Arizona sun and heat stressed. Except for basil, the herbs either died or grew so slowly they took weeks to recover from harvest. I'm building a new bed in a spot that gets afternoon shade and will try again.

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