Guide to Calla Lillies: Planting Elegance in the Spring

The calla lillies are in bloom again. Such a strange flower--suitable to any occasion. Remember the famous line from Katharine Hepburn in classic movie "Stage Door." Gaining in popularity of late, this South African lilly is a beautiful choice for bouquet or garden and is easy to grow. Here is the what, when, where and how of calla lillies. (The why is obvious--just look at them.)

 

What
Zantedeschia aethiopica
Perennial
Zones 7-10
Long, trumpet-like blossoms in a variety of colors (white, yellow, pink, orange, purple)
Medium green foliage, sometimes spotted
Low maintenance
Grows from bulb, spreads by rhizome
1-3 feet high (except for some extra tall varieties)
Up to a 3-foot wide plant
Easy to grow
Deer resistant and provides ground cover

 

When
Spring
When the ground is warm, damp and soft
Can be started indoors and may bloom indoors
I have a cala lilly on my desk at home. Grown indoors in a terra cotta pot by my son during this harsh Western New York winter, the bulb produced 2 perfect white flowers during the first week of March.

 

Where Full sun to filtered sunlight
Beds or borders
In soil which drains well (Soggy is not good.)
In shallow holes with eyes up and exposed to the air

 

How
Look for sprouts and roots in 2 to 3 weeks after planting these bulbs.
Keep soil moist but not soaking.
Divide plants to keep them healthy (more air and sun and fewer bugs and fungi). Water them first, and dig up the entire root system with a shovel. Split at root level. Plant them right away; make sure you have scoped out other sites beforehand. Calla lillies spread easily; so dividing them keeps them within borders.

Don't leave all your calla lillies in the garden. Cut and enjoy singly or as a bouquet in a vase. They will last a good week or more. They are also popular for wedding bouquets. Individual stems sell at florists for $5 or more each. Your gardening efforts can pay off in a very real way with this outstanding flower! General flower care

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Calendula: Spouse of the Sun

Calendula, also called Marigold (not to be confused with the more common French Marigold), Summer's Bredc, Holigold, Marybud, or my favorite: Bride of the Sun.

History And Folklore

Ancient Romans were the first to name Calendula, noting that these bright flowers always seemed to open on the first day of the month, "calends" in latin. It's also called "Mary's Favorite Flower," and some churches decorate their statutes of the Virgin Mary with it. There is no agreement among folklorists on whether the legend is derived from the Virgin Mary or Mary Queen of Scotts. It was said to be effective in love drawing spells.

Cultivation

Calendula does well in a partial shade environment and can work well in the corners of a garden and in cooler climates. It's growing season can extend into October. When growing from seed the planting should be at about one eighth of an inch deep and should be done right after the soil has been turned. Plants should be placed at least nine inches apart and need to be weeded consistently. Calendula can come down with some plant diseases, leave spot, stem rot, blight, and mildew to name a few. You can prevent these by ensuring the plant is 6 inches from any other plants, this allows better air circulation. Insects such as slugs, snails, aphid, caterpillars, etc can occur too. Mist the plants with a spray bottle full of soap and water. I recommend a solution of Dr Brauner's and distilled water at least once a week until the pests are gone.

Harvesting

Harvesting should be done as the flowers open but pinching off the entire flower at the stem. It's the leaves that are valuable, the stem and roots are not usable. Flowers can be dried on newspaper in the shade over a few days. In England it used to be boiled and eaten as a vegetable but has made a comeback as an addition to salads and soups. When taken internally it tends to dramatically lower blood sugar and is therefore dangerous to diabetics. More uses of marigold (calendula) in vegetable garden right here (Companion Planting for a Greener Garden )

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Flower Seeds to Plant Right Now

Many beginning gardeners want a show of beautiful colors in their yards. However, intimidation can set in once you reach the huge selection of seed packets at the retail store. This list should make your visit to the seed packet aisle a breeze.

1. Zinnia: This easy-to-grow annual (only lives for one blooming season) comes in a variety of colors and sizes. Zinnia petals also come in single, semi-double, and double. Zinnia is fast-growing (germinates within 7 days) and sun-loving. Its cheerful look will brighten up any flower bed and container. Try the smaller "Thumbelina Mix" in the front of your flower beds. The tall "California Giant" will add interest in the back. Flowers come in red, yellow, pink, orange, and even green and purple. The "Envy" variety is a cool lime green. Zinnia also come in mixed colors, such as the "Peppermint Stick Mix" and "Queen Red Lime." For a fluffier texture, try the "Cactus Mix."

2. Cosmos: This is another fast-growing and easy-to-grow annual that loves full sun. Cosmos germinates within 7 days. This plant gives a light and airy feel to gardens. They have feathery foliage and flowers that are available in pastel shades to scarlet hues. Cosmos can grow up to 4 feet tall. For a unique look, try the "Seashells Mix."

3. Marigolds: This annual comes in the warm colors of yellow, orange, and red and orange. A cream-colored types also exist. The French and African varieties are very popular, but no matter what you choose, these pest-repelling flowers will bloom all spring and summer. Marigolds look great in flower beds and containers. The seeds germinate within 14 days.

4. Dianthus: Anything in the Dianthus family is very easy to grow, including the Carnation, Sweet William, and Pinks. Whether you choose an annual or a perennial (lives for several blooming seasons) will bloom repeatedly, especially when dead flowers are pinched off regularly. Depending on the variety, germination can take anywhere between 5 days and 3 weeks. Dianthus come in white, as well as shades of pink, from a light baby pink to deep hues of magenta. Many also come in a combination of white and pink or white and magenta. Petals are described as single or double, depending on the variety of dianthus.

5. Sunflowers: Nothing represents summertime quite like the beloved Sunflower. If well-cared for, these hardy plants bloom into Fall. Although there are many types of Sunflowers, you can pretty much choose any one and it will be easy to grow. The "Mammoth" will take a long time to reach its 12-foot height, but its massive flower will be worth it. For a more distinctive look, try the "Teddy Bear" variety. It's fluffy flower head will make you smile. Whether you choose an annual or perennial type, most varieties will germinate within two weeks, but they may not bloom or reach their full height for several weeks.

Other seeds for first-time gardeners to try growing are Impatiens (great for shady areas), Columbine, Daisies, Nasturtiums, and Sweet Peas.

Always read the information on the seed packet, and plant according to instructions. Keep in mind the amount of shade or sun your garden or container offers. Look at the amount of watering and maintenance the plant needs, and compare it to the amount of time and effort you are willing to commit to gardening. Growing plants from seed is a rewarding experience. When those flowers start to bud and bloom, the work you put in will be worth it!

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How to Plant and Grow Crepe Myrtles

Take a drive through any Georgia town during summer and you'll think we have cornered the market on crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) bushes. These tall bushes with colorful crepe paper-looking blooms abound everywhere from highway medians to state parks to front lawns and courthouse lawns. Even though this unofficial Georgia state bush can be found growing everywhere, it still seems to be a mystery for many homeowners. As a Master Gardener, it's the one plant I'm asked most frequently about regarding planting and care. Take the mystery out of caring for this blooming bush with these tips for planting and growing crepe myrtle.

Bush Choice

Crepe (also spelled crape) myrtles come in a many different heights, ranging from a dwarf variety that reaches a mature height of 3 feet to the standard bush that can reach a mature height of 30 feet.

Bloom colors are dark pink (almost red) or light pink, dark purple or lavender and white.

Make a bush choice based on the growing space available, since even the tallest growing varieties can be kept pruned to fit within a space. Crepe myrtles also put on a brilliant display of fall foliage colors that ranges from orange to red and the bushes have interesting bark year 'round.

Planting

Crepe myrtles are drought-tolerant bushes and grow best inn full sun and well-draining soil. After selecting the planting site, dig a hole that is twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball. Place compost in the bottom half of the hole, then place root ball in the center of the planting hole. Add soil under the root ball if needed to raise up the top of the root ball evenly with the surrounding soil. Back-fill the planting hole, water bush well and firm soil with hands. 

Add 3 inches of organic mulch (pine bark, straw, etc.) around the base of the bush, being careful to keep the mulch from touching the trunk of the crepe myrtle.

Pruning

This is the biggest mystery surrounding this southern flowering bush - How to prune it without committing 'crepe murder', which is essentially sawing the top of the bush off to a one-layer, overall height. 

Prune in late winter when bush is dormant and start in the center of the bush and prune away all twiggy growth. Next, prune away side branches that have developed on the main trunk up to about 4 feet in height. If you want to take some of the height of the bush, prune the branch tips in a semi-circle, starting low on the outside branches, working up and over, then heading back down on the other side.

Feed and Water

One application of any tree or balanced lawn fertilize a year is sufficient for a crepe myrtle. Water only during times of extreme drought.

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10 Drought-Tolerant Plants for Hot Climates and Sandy Soil

Hot climates and sandy soil seem to go together. Where you have one, you have the other, like in my neck of the south Georgia landscape, and that makes it doubly challenging for gardeners. Not impossible, but certainly challenging, and a true gardener will always rise to the challenge and find something they can grow in any environment in which they decide to put roots down. If home is located where the hot sun is above your head and sand under your feet, try planting and growing some of these drought-tolerant plants for hot climates and sandy soil.

Beach Sunflower
Often seen growing on sand dunes, the beach sunflower (Helianthus debilis) can grow upright or lay down like a ground cover, reaching a mature height of about three feet. It's self-seeding and requires no care.

Beautyberry

The beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) grows best in sandy soil and light shade. The plant will reach a mature height of six feet, bearing clusters of purple berries from late summer through fall.

Firebush

This tall growing bush (reaches 8-10 feet) bears nectar-rich red blooms all summer when planted in full sun and sandy soil. Firebush (Hamelia patens) is a favorite flower of hummingbirds and butterflies and the red-blooming bush will keep a steady stream of winged visitors flying around all summer.

Goldenaster

Looks similar to a yellow daisy, the goldenaster (Pityopsis graminifolia) loves to be planted in sandy soil and full sun. Goldenaster produces long-lasting yellow blooms on two-feet tall plants.

Longleaf Pine

Not a blooming plant, but an evergreen tree that produces long, graceful pine needles. Longleaf pine (Pinus palustris) loves full sun and lots of moisture.

Pink Muhly

Pink muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris) is a tall blooming grass that reaches a mature height of four feet and bears showy pink blooms in the fall. Pink muhly prefers full sun, but will grow well in light shade.

Powderpuff

Low-growing ground cover that produces showy, pink powderpuff-like blooms. Powderpuff (Mimosa strigillosa) loves full sun, spreads quickly and reaches a mature height of three inches.

Silver Saw Palmetto

Tall and wide growing, the silver saw palmetto (Serenoa repens) reaches a mature size of 7 feet tall and equally as wide. Silver saw palmettos can take full sun or partial shade and are hardy in some colder climates.

Spiderwort

Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana) loves sandy soil, but grows equally well in sun or shade. Spiderwort has a long blooming season and comes in a variety of bloom colors.

Trumpet Honeysuckle

This twining vine loves the sun and sand. Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) produces clusters of red, tube-shaped flowers in the spring that attract hummingbirds.

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Arkansas Highway Wildflowers: Wildflower Routes

The Arkansas State Highway and Transportation Department has designated approximately 1,000 miles of Arkansas highways along which a multitude of Arkansas wildflowers can be observed. The purpose of the wildflower routes is to preserve existing Arkansas wildflowers, and this is accomplished through maintenance techniques that help the wildflowers of Arkansas to thrive. Both annuals and perennials flourish along these highways, brightening travelers' way throughout the state.

Wildflower Routes. Just a few of the 1,000 miles of Arkansas Highway Wildflowers include areas along Highway 51 in Clark County, Highway 412 in Benton County, Interstate 540 in Washington County, Highway in 62 Carroll County, and Interstate 530 in Pulaski County.

Wildflowers. A wide variety of the over 600 existing types of wildflowers found in Arkansas can be seen along the Wildflower Routes, including those described below.

Pale Purple Coneflower. This Arkansas wildflower blooms from May through July, and can be found beside the highways of the Ozark Plateau, Ouachita Mountains, and West Gulf Coastal Plain. This native perennial grows to be about three feet tall, with lavender pink leaves and chocolate brown seed heads.

Indian Paintbrush. Look for this lovely native annual along the highways of the Ozark Plateau, the West Gulf Coastal Plain, and the Mississippi Alluvial Plain. This Arkansas wildflower blooms from April through June. Growing to heights of one to two feet tall, you'll easily recognize this wildflower by its bright orange and scarlet upturned bracts (the leaf-like part of the plant surrounding the flower).

Showy Evening Primrose. This Arkansas wildflower can be found statewide, blooming along Arkansas highways from April through July. A native perennial, its lovely flowers bloom in either white or pink, growing to heights between one and two feet. This Arkansas wildflower is drought resistant, and flourishes along the state's highways.

Black-Eyed Susan. Another wildflower that can be found along Arkansas highways throughout the state, this beautiful native perennial will bloom from May all the way through October. This wildflower is instantly recognized by its large, showy petals of yellow, surrounding a dark brown center.

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Using Flower Bulbs as the Main Attraction

Do you plant flower bulbs, seeds or plants in your floral garden areas? I've used all 3 over the years. We don't have a floral garden yet at our new home. We've been using pots and concentrating on the backyard veggies for a few years. Soon, we plan to branch out a bit. Bulbs will make up the main part of my flower garden, once I get it planted. Using flower bulbs as our primary floral plantings will help us in numerous ways. Here's a few.

Low maintenance

Bulbs are easy to plant and maintain. We could have rose bushes or other perennials as our main floral attraction. However, bulbs are much simpler to take care of. There's no pruning or big time maintenance involved. Just cut them back after their bloom season. You will have to dig the bulbs up occasionally to move or divide them.

Self-propagation

Most floral bulbs have "babies" all on their own. There's no need to buy them more than once over many years. Just dig them up and divide them as needed. You can give the extra bulbs to friends or plant them elsewhere. The bulbs in your garden can last for decades if you take good care of them. Not all perennials are this long lasting.

Easily moved

When we want to move flower bulbs, it'll be easy enough to dig them up. We won't have to worry about "getting them all" like with some other perennials. As long as all the bulbs are removed and relocated, they won't regrow in the same spot. With other perennials, sometimes the smallest root left behind will come up the next year.

Staggering bloom times

Different flowers bloom at different times. Bulbs of different bloom times can be planted together. We could actually have a garden completely filled with bulbs if we wanted. It's easy to plan a bloom pattern with bulbs. They can be placed on the ground in a pattern that makes it easy to visualize seasonal growth, then dug in.

Bulbs are steadfast soldiers

When we want variety, we can fill in around our bulbs with annuals. Other perennials can go in future beds. That way, they won't have to be moved when dividing bulbs. Annuals are removed at year end anyway, so we can do both tasks at once. We can frame our bulb beds quickly with roll out annual seed mats to save time and trouble.

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How to Dig, Divide and Separate Flowering Bulbs to Multiply the Beauty

Gardeners can allow their flowering bulbs to supply them with more flowers, for free, by diving them at the right time of year. However, not all flowering bulbs requires the same care or are divided and replanted at the same time of year, so for multiplying success, a gardener must understand a bulb's needs. These needs include the importance of diving, when to divide and how to divide for each type of spring, summer or fall blooming bulbs.

Three Basic Types of Bulbs
Bulb flowers include true bulbs that are pear shaped, like tulips, corms and scales. Corms are bulb-like, but are more swollen and produce off sets, known as cormels . Crocuses are an example of corms. Scales are bulbs with layered scales, like lilies. Division is simply the process by which these different types of bulbs' immature growth s , known a bulblets , are separated from the parent plant and replanted in the garden to produce more flowers.

Why Divide Bulbs
Bulbs are divided to provide free bulbs for multiplying flowers, but division also allows existing bulbs to grow stronger. This is because bulbs expend energy supporting bulblets , and when these immature growths are removed, the parent bulb has more energy to bloom, creating bigger, healthier flowers.

How to Divide Bulbs
To divide bulbs, the immature growths are carefully removed from the parent plant. Once the bulblets are removed, the gardener can replant them or store them for planting later. Gardeners can prevent small bulblets from blooming the first year by nipping off flowers and allowing the energy to go toward growing a larger bulb and not blooms. Larger bulbs create a bigger display the following year. Division and replanting techniques depends on the type of flower bulb.

• Tulips are divided in late spring, once foliage has died back. Dig up the bulbs and pull the small bulblets from the parent bulb. Hybrid tulips are not generally suitable for division.
  
• Lilies are divided in late summer after foliage has almost completely died back. Generally, lilies require digging and dividing every few years when flowers appear crowded. Lilies are scales, so peel away the outer scaly layers.
  
• Daffodils are divided in late spring every few years when the gardener notices the number and size of blooms decreasing.
  
• Crocuses are divided in spring after foliage has begun to die back. Crocuses are corms, which can be difficult to divide, so separate foliage clumps instead.
  
• Gladiolus are lifted in early fall, once foliage has died back and stored until spring. Separate and plant gladiolus bulbs right before planting in spring.
  

Seasonal Tips

• Divide summer-flowering bulbs in spring and plant bulblets in the garden.
  
• Divide spring-flowering bulbs after foliage yellows and dies back in summer.
  
• Dig and store tender bulbs in fall, leaving them in a cool, dark place during winter.
  
• Tender corms should be dug in fall and stored until replanting in spring.
  

Other Tips

Root and stem rot are two of the most common causes of bulb failure. Gardeners can avoid this by planting bulbs in a well-drained location and store bulbs in a moist, not soggy, environment. Gardeners can dust bulbs with a fungicide to decrease the risk of fungal disease.

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Spring Into Action With These Gardening Tips

Five Ideas That Will Help You Have an Enjoyable Experience

Can't wait to get out in the garden? Heed these five tips and you'll likely have an enjoyable experience:

1. Patience is a virtue 

After winter, everyone is anxious to work in the garden. But take your time. Don't plant flowers or vegetables too early or else your efforts could fail when a late frost occurs. 


Gardening expert Roger B. Swain says: "I try not to plant seed in soil that I wouldn't be comfortable lying down in." ("The Anxious Gardener's Book of Answers" by Teri Dunn Chace).

Wait until Mother's Day to plant annuals. By then, the threat of cold temperatures usually is gone.


2. When to prune 

Don't assume all plants and shrubs can be cut back in spring. Remove dead or diseased branches from shrubbery, but lilac, forsythia and rhododendron bear flowers on wood formed the previous year.
Wait until after these have bloomed to prune them. It's okay to prune plants that bloom later in the summer in early spring. But hydrangeas bloom on old wood so if you whack these in early spring, you'll be cutting out the flower buds.


3. Feed the soil 

When asked about fertilizing, a gardener friend said: "How would you like it if you didn't get fed for a whole year?" That's a good reminder that you just can't put something in the ground and expect it to do well without assistance. That's where fertilizing helps.
Spring is a good time to fertilize, because that's when plants are growing. Don't fertilize in the fall, because that will encourage growth at a time when plants should be slowing down. Once you fertilize, water the plant well to ensure the food gets to the roots.


4. Match the plant to sunlight conditions

A flower might look beautiful at a garden center, but how do you know whether it will thrive in your yard? Don't place a plant that prefers part-shade in full sun or vice versa. Keep track of how much sun your yard gets daily. Does it get morning sun? Does it get at least six hours each day? 
Those observations will be beneficial when you select your plants. 


5. Stick with one or two colors
When you're mass planting, it's smart to stick with one or two colors. Your planting (no matter the size) will have a better impact than trying five or six colors.

 

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Of Flowers and Failures: Spring Gardening Tips for Beginners

I've never been a "successful" gardener, but I learn more through failure each year! Here are some spring gardening lessons from my mistakes!

Consider sunlight
I was fortunate to buy a house with a thriving backyard terrace. The plants are well-established and self-sufficient. My front yard, however, hosts an empty garden bed I am determined to fill. I turned the ground, added fresh soil, and sewed some seeds. The first few sprouts were thrilling, but withered quickly in the nearly-constant sunlight. I always thought sun was good for plants, but in the case of my fragile flowers, too much of a good thing was the end.

Cooking water This is a weird tip I've heard from a number of sources whenever I ask for any sage (or rosemary, or thyme) gardening advice. After steaming veggies, boiling potatoes, or cooking pasta, don't dump the water down the sink, let it cool completely, then use it to water your garden. The idea is that the nutrients seeped out during cooking will add additional potential to garden soils.

Start plants indoors
New England weather is unpredictable at best, and spiteful at worst. While I have learned to weather the weather, tiny plant sprouts are not so resilient. Give your plants a head-start by starting them indoors, and carefully transferring them outside when they are established. I have had the best luck with moving windowsill flowers. Repurposed egg cartons make fabulous starter-beds.

Veggies vs. flowers
If you are a novice gardener, or a hopeless garden-enthusiast like me, you should consider the differences between vegetables and flowers. True, there are perennial flowers, which should bloom every year, but that is only if your roots take, and you are able to fully-establish the plant. Vegetables, on the other hand, tend to grow faster, and are heartier, more forgiving plants. And they're food!

Rabbits like bulbs I planted some tulip bulbs, admiring their resilience, and hoping the flowers would root strongly, and return to bloom each year. After an unseasonable spring heat-wave, my flowers withered, and I learned… that we had rabbits-and rabbits eat flower bulbs! They even left the bulb scraps at my front door! To avoid garden nibbling, encircle bulb-plants with rough gravel, and set up feeders away from your garden.
One day, I will have a successful outdoor garden, but for now I'm still learning, and soaking up the sun with the flowers!

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How to Force Spring Blooming Branches Into Early Indoor Color

By late winter, gardeners are feeling antsy. We want to see something spring back to life in our landscape after a long, dormant winter, and waiting for mother nature to run her course is difficult. Speed up the spring blooming process by forcing branches from ornamental and fruiting shrubs and trees into early indoor color with these tips.

Cut Branches
Use sharp pruning shears to cut pencil-thick branches from your favorite spring blooming shrubs and trees. The cut branches should be between 12-24 inches for best results. I make this my spring pruning time so I can shape up my trees and shrubs and gather branches for indoor color at the same time. Forsythia, crabapple, wild plum, serviceberry, redbud, tulip tree and any fruit tree or rhododendron are good choices to use for forced spring blooming.

Bucket of Water
Get the cut ends of the branches in a bucket of water as soon as possible. Place bucket in a shower and allow tepid water to shower down on the branches for a few minutes. This will warm the branches and trick them into thinking they are feeling a spring rain shower, so the bloom buds will begin to swell.

Drip Dry and Cover
Leave the bucket of branches in the shower until the water has stopped dripping off the branches, but they're still wet. Cover the branches and bucket with a large plastic trash bag, then move the bucket to cool location that receives light, either via the sun or indoor lighting. The plastic bag will hold in the moisture and raise the humidity level so they branches will begin to show signs of life. Check the branches every three days, changing the water at that time too. Depending on the tree and/or shrub varieties chosen, the branches will take anywhere from three days to three weeks to bud.

Just Right
When the buds are just about to pop open, remove the branches from the bucket and place in a display container filled with water. Trim the branch bottom if needed to fit the container properly. Place container out of direct sunlight, away from exterior doors and heat sources. Change water daily to keep the forced spring blooming branches looking their best.

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10 Spring Blooming Plants for a Woodland Garden

A woodland garden is one of the easiest and loveliest flower gardens of all to grow and quite popular in the southern landscape. The basic philosophy behind a woodland garden is if it grows on its own, leave it alone. But as a Master Gardener, I'm often asked how to prompt a little more color from a woodland garden while still keeping with a free-flowing, natural garden design. I suggest you plant some of these spring blooming plants that thrive in a woodland garden setting and shimmer under the dappled sunlight that streams through the still-bare tree limbs, and will add a splash of color.

* Azaleas (Rhododendron) come in a wide variety of shrub sizes and bloom colors, all of which thrive in the acidic soil naturally found in woodland gardens. Hardy in most growing zones.

* Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) produces 2- to 3-foot tall wands from which rows of tiny heart-shaped blooms hang. Bleeding heart is a self-seeder and usually goes dormant during the heat of summer. Hardy in zones 3-8.

* Daffodils (Narcissus) are the sunny yellow spring bloomers that populate many landscapes during early spring. Daffodils thrive in the dappled spring sunlight of a woodland garden and are hardy in most growing zones.

* Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) produces an unusual-looking spring bloom and red berries in the fall. The woodland plant will reach a mature height of 3 feet and is hardy in zones 4-9.

* Great White Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) produces single white blooms in the spring and will ever-so-slowly spread to create a pocket of spring color. Hardy in zones 4-9.

* Rue anemone (Anemonella thalictroides) is a low-growing ground cover that spreads quickly and produces a multitude of white spring blooms, Hardy in zones 3-8.

* Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum) is another spreading ground cover that produces white blooms in the spring. Hardy in zones 4-8.

* Virginia Bluebell (Mertensia virginica) produces the coveted shade of blue blooms on top of plants that reach a mature height of 2 feet. Hardy in zones 3-8, Virginia bluebells usually go dormant during mid-summer.

* Hostas (Hosta x. tardiana) are large-leafed mounding plants that will send up 3-foot tall spikes of tiny purple flowers in late spring. Hardy in zone 4-9.

* Hellebores (Helleborus) are evergreen plants that will produce green or greenish-purple blooms in spring. Hardy in zones 3-9.

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How to Plant, Grow and Divide Dahlias

If you plant dahlias in well-draining soil located in full sun they will reward you with colorful blooms from July until the first frost of fall. These easy-care flowers perform their best during the hot, dry days of July and in September and October when most other flowers wilt by the wayside. Dahlias are hardy in zones 8-10 and come in a wide variety of bloom colors and heights, making them a perfect choice for any home garden.

Planting Dahlias

Dahlias are sold in the spring as tubers or bedding plants. Tubers can be started indoor in planters, then transplanted outdoors to get a head start on the growing season. Select a sunny location and work some compost into the soil to ensure good drainage. After all danger of frost has passed, plant tubers three inches below soil surface and place bedding plants at the same level they were at in their container. Cover with soil, water in well and apply a layer of mulch to control weeds and retain moisture.

After Care

Dahlias need minimal after-care, but do appreciate a little food and support. Apply a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) at spring planting time then again at the start of bloom time in July. Water only during times of prolonged drought and the plants begin to wilt. 

Some varieties of dahlias can reach a mature height of 5 feet, any variety over 3 feet will need some support. Use tomato cages, bamboo stakes, trellises, etc. to help these tall beauties stand up straight. Dahlia blooms range in size from petite pom-pom type blooms to wide open, saucer-sized blooms and all make excellent cut flowers.

Dividing Tubers

Dahlias are perennials, but can be treated like annuals and replaced each year. If you want to save some garden money, dig up the tubers and plant them over and over again. 

At the end of fall, before the soil freezes but about 2 weeks after the first killing frost, dig the tubers up. Cut the stems back to 6 inches and gently rinse the soil off each tuber. 

Lay tubers in a single layer on spread-out newspaper to dry for 24 hours in a location where they won't freeze. 

If you have more than one variety of dahlia, use a permanent marker to label each tuber. Place clean, dry, labeled tubers in a cardboard box and cover with peat moss or vermiculite and store in cool, dark place until next spring. 

Divide tubers in spring just before planting. Use a pair of sharp hand-held pruning shears and cut small tubers off of the large clump. Each tuber must have an 'eye', which is a small knob where it had been connected to the main stalk.

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Best Flowers to Plant for Non-Stop Bloom Color Spring Through Fall

As a Master Gardener, I've never met a flower that I didn't like. Some flowers work harder to win my affection, but all have my admiration. Since I can't plant them all in my landscape, I opted to plant annuals and perennials that will produce their lovely blooms at varying times so I can have non-stop bloom color from spring through fall. These flower choices will help you achieve the same season-long bloom color too.

Annuals
For plants that will literally bloom their heads off, annuals can't be beat. Because they only have one season to live to produce seeds for a succeeding generation, annuals will produce in non-stop profusion.

* Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) can be relied on all summer for a spectacular show of colorful blooms that make excellent cut flowers. Plant cosmos in full sun and allow mid-summer blooms to go to seed so this 'annual' will produce volunteer seedlings next year, giving you a head start on planting season.

* Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) produces daisy-like blooms from May till September. Plant seeds in well-draining soil that is located in full sun. Blanket Flower will reach a mature height of 3 feet and comes in bloom colors of red, orange and yellow.

* Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana alata) produces fragrant trumpet-shaped blooms in pink, red, white or lime green that open in the early evening. The large-leafed plant grows well in most soil and can be sown as seeds directly into the soil Mature Flowering Tobacco will be about 4 feet tall.

* Zinnias (Zinnia elegans) Zinnia comes in many shapes, sizes and colors, but if you want non-stop bloom color from these old favorites, choose a compact growing variety that has a mature height of about 2 feet.

Perennials
Choose some of these perennials that will remain in bloom for at least 6 weeks to help you achieve bloom color spring through fall.

* Daylily (Hemerocallis) sun-loving daylilies are easy to grow, adapt to most soil conditions and are drought-tolerant. The hardy perennials comes in every bloom color except blue and must be dead-headed daily for best bloom results.

* Bee Balm (Monardo didymo) is tall, fragrant and produces bloom color during the hottest, driest part of summer when everything else in the garden is wilting. Butterflies, hummingbirds and bees are attracted to the large crimson or violet blooms.

* Verbena (Verbena hybrida) is another plant that thrives during the Dog Days of summer and rewards you with deep purple flowers that hug the ground. Plant Verbena as a living mulch tucked in among other annuals and perennials or plant in hanging baskets.

* Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium) produces single or double daisy-like blooms that can be cut repeatedly throughout the growing season. Feverfew re-seeds itself and must be dead-headed during blooming season.

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Growing Beautiful African Violets

A Beginners Guide to Beautiful Flowering African Violets

African Violets are lovely little plants and are fairly easy to grow. If you haven't had good luck with them in the past, follow a few simple rules to get them blooming in no time!

Basic Care for African Violets

African Violets really can be easy to grow and have bloom for you. They do need a few special things though, to really be at their peak.

Sun

The first thing that your African Violets need is sunlight. Lots of it too. However, you may not want to put them right in the direct sun of a sunny south facing window. Many house plants will burn if set in a hot southern exposure, so if that is where they need to be, set them back a little bit from the window.

Bright indirect light is the best for African Violets. The more, the better. In theory, they should have over twelve hours or very bright indirect light. However, if you can't provide that, find a good bright place and give that a try. The plants should do just fine.

Water

Watering African Violets can be a little tricky. Their leaves are fuzzy and, as with almost all fuzzy-leafed plants, you should not get their leaves wet. They will not like this at all. The leaves which have been wet will turn brown and die.

It is best to water your African Violets from the bottom. Add water into the saucer at the bottom of the flower pot and let it seep in to the soil.

In addition, do not over water your plants. If you find that your African Violets are growing but not flowering, try cutting back on the water. Let the pots dry out almost completely in between waterings. If you stick your finger in to the soil, it should feel dry, but not crusty. If it is hard or crusty, you have let it get too dry. Generally, try to water your African Violets every week or ten days.

Fertilizing Your African Violets

You can readily buy some African Violet fertilizer. The liquid type makes the job very easy. Just add the fertilizer to the water you are going to water your plants with. You can dilute the fertilizer by half and fertilize every time you water if you like. During the winter, it is not a bad idea to give your plants a break and skip some fertilization. Don't forget to get back in the habit as the days start to lengthen. This is the plant's signal to get growing.

Potting Your African Violets

African Violets do best in small pots. Make sure that the pot has drainage holes in the bottom, as sitting in water will kill them. You can purchase special potting soil for African Violets.

You may never have to repot your African Violets, but if you decide to change their pot, make sure to keep them in a container which is about the same size as the previous one.

Put some rocks or a piece of paper towel over the drainage holes, but make sure that water will seep out. Then add a layer of fresh African Violet soil into the bottom of the pot. Position the plant in the pot and make sure that the previous soil line is just under the rim of the container.

Fill up the pot, making sure to keep the plant straight and pat down the soil gently but firmly. Make sure to give your plant a drink (from the bottom) now that it is in its new home.

Propagating African Violets

African Violets are easy to propagate and can make great gifts. Why not take some cuttings and make new plants?

Make sure that the plant you are taking the cuttings from is in good health. You might want to water it if it is dry a little while before you take the cuttings. This way, the cuttings will be hydrated and in good shape.

Cut off a few leaves from the plant. Try to take the more mature leaves at the bottom of the plant. Pinch off the stems and keep them as long as possible. You can take several leaves.

Take the leaves and put them into a small pot filled with rooting mixture or African Violet soil. Just stick the stems into the soil and pat down the soil around them. Water the pot, this time from the top, remembering not to wet the leaves. This will tamp down the soil and remove any air pockets.

Leave your leaf cuttings in a spot which gets plenty of bright indirect light. Too much heat may keep them from rooting, though. Remember to water as with the host plant and in four to six weeks, many of your leaves should be rooted.

African Violet Varieties

African Violets come in many colors and varieties. You can find them in white, pink, purple and more. You also can find variegated flowering African Violets and plants which have ruffled leaves and flowers.

Get Growing

Go buy some African Violets. They are inexpensive and easy to care for. If you find that they are not flowering for you, give them some more light or less water and you should be good to go. These lovely little plants are a fantastic addition to any room. Enjoy!

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House Plants: How to Care for Baby's Tears

Add a Splash of Color to Your Home with This Beautiful Houseplant

Baby's Tears originate from Madagascar. It is a plant that is suitable for inside the home or a greenhouse and provides a very low maintenance way to have colorful beauty in your home. Although this plant has no flowers, the leaves provide more than enough color to please anyone's eye. It is best kept in temperatures between 60-85 degrees Fahrenheit and requires a space with very high humidity.

Here are some tips to keep your Baby's Tears in it's most beautiful condition:

Light

You will see this plant do best if it is in an indirect sunlight. It will do even better if the sun comes form the South, East or West positions. Leaving it in direct sun can cause it's leaves to burn up and lose it's beautiful coloring.

Soil

You should use a good general purpose potting soil for this plant. The soil should retain water but also needs to drain well so that the plant isn't over watered. You will also want a well aerated soil to allow the root to have some breathing room. If the soil is packed tightly you can add some sand or perlite along with some peat moss to give the roots plenty of room. You can mix your own soil as well. Here is the recipe: 1 part garden soil, 1 part coarse sand or perlite, 1 part moist peat or humus (leaf mold) and a little bit of lime. Keep in mind to use a pot with a hole in the bottom so that excess water can drain out.

Water

The soil should be barely moist at all times. You should always use warm water for your plants. Rainwater can be very acidic. If you choose to use rainwater, make certain that it is optimum for your plants growth.

Fertilize

You do not need to fertilize this plant. It is actually suggested that you don't.

Pests

This plant is known to get whitefly, aphids and scale. You should always be sure to check the plants before you purchase them so that you don't introduce these pests to your other houseplants.

Making New Plants
You can easily make new plants from the one that you already have. Simply gather the seeds or use stem cuttings to do so. You should do this in the Spring through the late summer months. Place the stems or seeds in a mixture of moist peat and perlite. Cover the pot with a plastic bag. You can seal it at the top with a rubber band to seal in the moisture. This will give the plant its much needed humidity. Place it in an area that has indirect sunlight or you can use fluorescent lighting to help it grow.

Other Tips

You should make sure that Baby's Tears are kept watered during the Winter months. You should purchase a bottle with a sprayer on it so that you can mist your plant. You will want to do this often to keep it looking its best at all times. Pinch off the dead leaves and keep it pruned well in order for the plant to keep its bushy appearance. It servers this plant well to place pebbles or stones in a dish under the pot. This allows the excess water to place humidity back into the plant without it getting over watered. You must be sure that you place the pot on top of the stones or pebbles. You do not want the pot sitting directly in the water. Baby's Tears should be repotted in the Early Spring.

This is a beautiful plant and will give you years of service if you care for it well. Enjoy your baby's tears.

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Guide to Growing Kalanchoe, a Colorful Fuss-free Houseplant

If you are prone to forget to water houseplants or are a frequent traveler and unable to provide daily care for houseplants, try growing Kalanchoe.

Kalanchoe is a succulent that loves bright light, is at home either indoors or outdoors, covers itself with colorful bell-shaped flowers when in bloom, and best of all, this houseplant will go for up to two weeks without water and still look good.

Familiar Houseplant

You may have never heard of Kalanchoe, but you've probably seen the houseplant. It's as close as the floral department in the local grocery store. Small pots of Kalanchoe, with it's various bloom colors, are a staple in floral departments and garden centers due to it's fuss-free care requirements. A small pot of Kalanchoe is inexpensive also.

Kalanchoe Care

Place Kalanchoe in a location where it will receive the morning sun, but be shaded from the hot afternoon sun.

Wait until this houseplant's soil has thoroughly dried out before watering, then saturate the soil with water. This watering will last the Kalanchoe for two weeks, longer if the temperature is mild. If the houseplant goes longer than two weeks between watering, the fleshy, dark green leaves will begin to wither. But give it a drink of water and it will rebound nicely.

Propagation

Propagation for Kalanchoe is as simple as placing a broken stem into a glass of water. Kalanchoe is a very dense houseplant and it's easy to accidentally snap off a stem during routine watering, which does not harm the houseplant in any way. Take the broken stem and place it into a glass of water until a root system forms, then plant the newly formed Kalanchoe in a container of potting soil.

Feeding And Keeping

Feed Kalanchoe once per month from spring until fall with an all-purpose, balanced, water soluble plant food. The houseplant will maintain full bloom throughout the growing season.

In the fall, when the Kalanchoe houseplant is done blooming for the season, it will go into dormancy and can easily be kept until next season.

Remove all spent blooms and place the Kalanchoe in a semi-dark location where it will receive no more than ten hours of filtered sunlight per day. Reduce watering to once per month during winter dormancy.

In spring, place the Kalanchoe back into the sunlight, water and feed and the houseplant will come back to life.

Fuss-free Kalanchoe is a perfect houseplant for busy, on-the-go people who want living color in their spaces, but can't be tied down to a rigid houseplant care regimen.

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Winter Houseplant Care

Taking care of your houseplants during the winter may pose a bit of a problem, not because you intentionally ignore them -- or have suddenly lost your green thumb -- but their needs change. Meeting the needs of houseplants during the winter requires some changes in your routine.

Watering: Most plants go into dormancy during the winter months. As plant growth slows down, the amount of water required to keep the plant healthy decreases - but don't be fooled into thinking you can ignore your plant's watering needs. Household conditions, such as forced hot air and decreased humidity may actually increase the need for water. Monitor the soil in your plants carefully to determine a good watering routine. Most thrive on thorough watering once a week.

Light: Houseplants that thrive in a sunny eastern or northern window in the summer may not receive enough sunlight for healthy growth during the winter months when the sun is low in the sky. Likewise, those grown in filtered light near western or southern windows may now be able to withstand direct sunlight. Experiment with new locations for your plants as the path of the sun changes.

Fertilizer: Houseplants do not require fertilizer during periods of dormancy as growth is slowed and the plant is resting. Withholding fertilizer from October to March is typically recommended. Begin fertilizing when a new flush of growth appears in late winter or early spring.

Pinching: Houseplants may produce scraggly or leggy growth during the winter due to the lack of light. If your plants begin to produce weak, spindly stems or appear to stretch for the light, pinch them back. This forces energy into producing new foliage along the stem and creates a compact plant. Move the plant to move light after pinching.

Temperature: Most houseplants are tropical plants and prefer temperature between 65 and 75 degrees F during the day with temperatures 10 degrees cooler at night. For some homes, this may pose a problem - because either temperatures remain constant throughout both daytime and nighttime hours or nighttime temperatures drop too low. Strive to keep temperatures within this range to promote healthy plant growth.

Dangers: Cold drafts or chilly windowsills pose the risk of "freezing" tender plants. As a rule, keep plants several inches from the windowpane. If your windows "frost up" during the night, move the plants away from windows - or place a heavy shade or drape between the plants and the window.

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Take the Guesswork Out of Grouping Garden Flowers

The intricacies of landscape design can leave gardeners wondering about what flowers go well together as is evident in the article, Basic Principles of Landscape Design, by the University of Florida. Experts in landscape design look for plants with compatible height, texture, width, color and shape. Those same experts are often aided by landscape design software that shows options available within the USDA planting zone. Using the computer software, they can reposition the plant images to achieve the ultimate flower garden layout before buying the first plant. Many gardeners, especially first time gardeners, do not have that luxury to figure out what plants work well together. You can take the guesswork out of grouping garden flowers by limiting your selection to a single plant variety.

Ornamental grass

Short ornamental grass, like variegated liriope, is a favorite of mine because it requires no care. Once the root system is established, which may be as early as the second year in the soil, rainfall alone can keep it going. Liriope (Liriope muscari), also called lilyturf, grows less than 2 feet tall and spreads 1 to 2 feet. Added bonus-lilyturf sends up spears of purple, blue or white blooms in late summer. Other short ornamental grass options, which are cold hardy to USDA planting zone 4, include Indian rice grass (Achnatherum hymenoides), sand love grass (Eragrostis trichodes) or autumn moorgrass (Sesleria autumnalis).

Bulbs or Tubers

Daffodils (Narcissus), crocus (Crocus) and tulips (Tulipa) are popular bulb-based plants that shoot up in early to late spring. With blooms suitable for flower arrangements, these easy-to-grow flowers return year after year to add color to your landscape design. Other bulb options include the highly scented hyacinth (Hyacinthus hybrids) and lilies (Lilium). Bulbs are typically spherical in shape while tubers are fat, underground stems. Iris (Iris hybrids) is an example of a tuber. Other tubers that bloom in the summer include canna (Cannaceae) and dahlia (Dahlia variabilis).

Annual flowers

Planting annuals is a wonderful way to not only try different flower varieties, but to try different colors to see what you like best. Over the years, I have planted impatiens (Impatiens walleriana), marigolds (Tagetes spp.), petunia (Petunia x hybrida), pansy (Viola x wittrockiana) or sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima). Each of these annual flowers offers a unique color to the garden landscape but I really like impatiens the best. They grow quickly, creating a carpet of color. With any of the referenced annual flowers, choose a single color or plant groupings, each of a different color but still of the same variety. For impatiens, I planted a large grouping of lavender impatiens along side coral impatiens. The colors did not look as good together as I expected so the following year, I selected different colors though one color would have looked fine. The annual flowers listed are common varieties available from local garden centers at planting time, which may be late spring.

Perennial flowers

My landscape design includes areas of just perennial flowers on one variety. I am fond of chrysanthemums (Dendranthema spp. and hybrids) that provide outstanding color in the fall. For shade, choose astilbe (Astilbe x arendsii) to create a sea of waving plumes in pink, white, red or purple. I planted three astilbe plants years ago and this self-seeding perennial flower has provided dozens of new plants in the flower garden. Scabiosa (Scabiosa columbaria), also called pincushion, blooms from late spring into early fall, providing a constant source for cuttings for floral arrangements.

Tip

Ornamental grass, bulbs, tubers and perennial flowers return year after year. As these plants mature, their base expands. This maturation allows splitting of the underground portion of the plant every three to five years. As a cost saving measure, set out a few plants with a plan to divide them in a few years to increase the area of your ornamental grass garden or flower garden.

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Lantanas Are Sun Loving Flowers that Are Easy to Grow

Lantanas love the sun and they have the warm yellow and orange colors of the sun. Lantanas are shrub-like plants that are easy to grow, can bloom all summer, and can stand some neglect and drought.

Lantanas are perennials in warm locations.

The plants are grown as annuals in most of North America. Lantanas are only winter hardy down to 28 degrees Fahrenheit. That means they are perennials in California, Florida, and along the Gulf Coast. Most gardeners buy them as potted plants in the spring. Growing them from seeds is possible but takes too long to be convenient for most gardeners.

Flower colors are yellow, orange, red, white, and lavender. The blooms grow in umbrella shaped clusters at the end of long stems. Many varieties are multicolored. The stems grow to 14 inches tall and spread more horizontal than vertical, making lantana popular for hanging pots and containers. In garden beds, lantana is usually planted in the front or middle of the bed.

Grow lantana in full sun with at least six full hours of sunlight. The soil should be well drained and not moist. The plants have profuse flowers though too much water and fertilizer can encourage foliage and reduce blooms. Allow the soil to dry before watering. Removing old blooms encourages lantana to continue to flower. The plant may need occasional trimming if it becomes ungainly looking. In areas where lantana is grown as a perennial, mulching in winter protects the roots and helps insure its survival.

Butterflies love lantana.

Butterflies and bees are strongly attracted to lantana. The leaves and stems, however, have an unpleasant odor when rubbed, and the sap can cause some people to develop minor rashes. Green berries that grow from fertilized flowers are poisonous. Birds eat the berries when they ripen and turn black. Deer, rabbits, and other animals will not eat lantana plants.

Lantana is native to tropical America and is perennial shrub that sometimes becomes an invasive nuisance in a few areas. The most common lantana has the scientific name Lantana camara, a mound forming plant with yellow or red flowers. Another commonly grown lantana is Lantana montevidenis also called "trailing lantana", a low growing, and spreading plant with purple or white flowers.

Varieties of lantana include "confetti" which has many pink and purple flowers or multicolored yellow. "Dallas Red" is a prolific bloomer with solid red blooms. A variety that has numerous yellow and orange flowers is "Gold Mound". "Imperial Purple" is a trailing lantana which looks good in a hanging pot.

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