5 Things You Should Never Do when Growing a Garden

Have you ever done any of these mistakes when planting a garden? It doesn't take much to grow a plant, just a little know how. Here are some things you should never do if you want to have a beautiful garden:

Don't plant in the shade

If you plant your garden in the shade, you will get a lot of green leafs but no fruit. They need sunlight to produce flowers and fruit. If the humidity is high while plants are in the shade, the roots and seeds can also mold and therefore never grow.

Don't plant in unprepared soil

Always prepare the soil before planting. Add compost, potting soil and till the ground if needed. Another option you have is to plant in a raised box where you can use all new soil, which already has all the nutrients added in for a healthier garden.

Don't water the plants in the heat of the day

By doing so, you will hurt the roots and leaves and possibly kill your plant. Water them at dawn and dusk so that the soil has time to absorb the water before the heat of the day. Always check the soil to see if it needs more water before watering.

Don't use too much fertilizer

Another way you can kill the plants is by using too much fertilizer. You can burn the roots and leaves and they will wilt. If you use fertilizer, make sure you read all the instructions on the labels and know how to apply it.

Don't forget to water

Sun and water are very important for the health of the plant. Don't water too much but don't forget to water them either. If you go on vacation have someone take care of your garden for you. Your plants need your help to grow but soon you will reap the rewards.

Learn from your mistakes and move on. You are capable of growing a garden, but need patience, consistency and will power.

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Keep Bad Bugs Away from the Garden

Getting the spring garden started properly can be a challenge. One thing you'll likely encounter during the growing season is insect pests in the garden. When you're planning the garden layout and content, add a few plants help deal with this issue and keep the bad bugs away.
You can also include plants that attract good bugs, those that do away with the crop munching bad bugs often found in the garden. Plant for the battle of the bugs, you'll find the good ones generally win.
This organic form of pest control is simple. With the right timing, you can have several plants growing that either repel the bad bugs, attract the good bugs or both.
Garlic
Plant garlic in autumn or late in winter, depending upon your USDA Hardiness zone. The smell of this easy to grow plant drives away many flying and crawling pests such as aphids, which love to pierce and suck on new, tender plant growth.
If, for some reason, you don't want to grow garlic in the garden, you can still use it as a pest deterrent. Crush a few cloves, mix with oil and apply it by spraying on or around growing vegetables to repel bad bugs.
Plant garlic sparingly and only plant near plants that normally experience insect damage, such as those of the cruciferous clan. Too much garlic can keep away the good bugs you wish to attract to the garden.

Painted Daisy
Painted daisy perennial flowers, botanically called Tanacetum coccineumor Pyrethrum roseum, repel many bad bugs in the garden. These pretty flowers also repel browsing animals that may damage crops by munching on them. The repellant properties of this flower are so beneficial that petals of the white variety of the painted daisy are dried for use in the organic insecticide, Pyrethrum.
Growing painted daisies keeps pests away from nearby plants. Tender plants of this variety may occasionally be bothered by aphids or leaf miners. Treat with a garlic or soapy spray if you see these insects damaging the young painted daisy.

Nasturtium and Marigold
French marigold flowers are useful insect deterrents for both the ornamental and vegetable gardens. Marigolds also repel mosquitoes and kill bad nematodes in the soil.

The perky, spring blooming nasturtium flower is a powerhouse for repelling bad bugs in the garden. Wooly aphids, cucumber beetles and white flies avoid areas where nasturtiums bloom. The yellow flowering variety is particularly useful for trapping aphids. Sunflowers can also draw aphids from more valuable plants.

Attract pollinators and other useful insects to the garden by planting lavender, bee balm and petunias. Other plants that may attract good bugs to the garden include borage, basil and hyssop.
Experiment with other highly fragrant or strong scented plants in the garden. Success will depend on where the garden grows and what bad bugs may be waiting to attack, but from these selections you're likely to find success at keeping the bad bugs away.

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Nobodys Favorite Garden Chore: Weeding

With a foot of snow still melting outside, there aren't many gardening chore choices right now, other than starting seeds indoors. Even planting cool season seeds is risky with reports that the polar vortex may return.

If, like me, the warm, pretty days make you anxious to get the spring garden started, there is an option. Weeding the garden is a chore that can't be undone by any future polar vortex conditions.

If the unseasonably warm temps beckon you to do something in the garden…anything, really, take a look at those pesky winter weeds that will soon be producing seeds and tormenting you in the garden for years to come.

Target Annual Winter Weeds

Henbit, purple dead nettle, speedwell, common chickweed and mouseear chickweed are mat forming, annual weeds that may have not yet produced seeds, or are in the process of forming them. If you can get them out of the ground before seeds produce and drop, you're saving yourself lots of work. Not only for this year, but for years to come.

Ways to Kill Weeds

Use pre-emergent herbicide if you're familiar with where the weeds normally grow. If they've already emerged you may be able to pull them by hand or remove them mechanically with a hoe.

Other than the lawn, you may saturate the area with vinegar to help kill the roots. A regular post-emergent herbicide can easily kill young weeds before they flower. For those who prefer a more organic approach, hand weeding and hoeing may be your best bet.

For larger areas, such as a plot which will become a new garden bed, braver gardeners use a torch for weed removal. You can also get rid of some of the annual weeds by tilling the soil and turning them under. In gardens where you won't be planting seeds, an application of the organic product Preen prevents weeds for several months.

Keeping Weeds Under Control

Apply this corn-gluten based product when the Forsythia shrubs in your area are in full bloom. This handy guideline works for all areas of the country.

Once you have the weeds under control, you can concentrate on the more fun aspects of starting the garden. Start seeds indoors for a jump start on spring flowers and cool season vegetables. Follow suit with summer veggies and blossoms, as desired. Keeping the garden weed-free (or close) is easier when you get started early.

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Tips for Treating Black Spot on Roses

Roses are susceptible to three major diseases, and black spot is one of them. Fortunately for rose growers, it is also one of the easiest rose diseases to treat. Black spot is a fungal disease that most often appears during humid, rainy conditions and causes black patches on stems and leaves of rose plants.

Recognizing Black Spot
During humid, rainy conditions, gardeners should check roses one a week for this disease. The first sign of black spot on roses is small pinhead-sized spots on plant leaves. The spots gradually grow larger and becomes surrounded by a halo of yellow dying leaf tissue. As the disease progresses, rose leaves turn yellow and drop. The good news is, treatments for black spot generally work even in advanced stages of the disease.

Black spot spreads by fungal spores that travel through the air and on surfaces that have come into with infect leaves, such as gardening tools. Fungal spores can also spread by water spray and dead leaves that have fallen and landed on the soil under the plant. Black spot fungal spores are able to survive in the soil during winter.

Treating Black Spot
Treatment for black spot is an ongoing process that includes early prevention, prompt treatment and regular treatments to prevent recurring infections. Early prevention includes monitoring roses as soon as new growth appears and spraying roses with a solution of one part lime to nine parts wettable sulfur during winter.

Ongoing treatment includes removing any infected rose leaves and disposing of them as soon as possible. Once black spot sets in and begins to progress, gardeners need to begin a regular weekly application of a suitable fungicide, such as Daconil or Benomyl .

Other Tips
Good watering practices can help reduce the risk of black spot. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses that are susceptible to the fungal disease. These hoses are placed around the plant's base to prevent water from splashing up onto plants.

When spraying roses with a fungicide, gardeners must follow label directions, as these will advise them on how to safely apply the product to the plants and which plants may be sensitive to the active ingredients in certain products.

If black spot becomes a recurrent problem on one or more of the rose bushes in the garden, cut the entire plant low to ground in the fall, removing any stems that have been affected or could be carriers for black spot fungal spores.

Healthy plants are better able to withstand black spot infections. To ensure healthy roses, buy healthy plants from a reputable nursery, position plants in the garden to ensure they receive adequate air circulation and water carefully near the plant roots and early in the day. Prune roses as needed to remove an dead or diseased limbs and immediately pick up and discard any leaves that have fallen off the plant onto the soil below. When pruning roses, always use sharp clean pruners, and if they come into contact with black spot fungus, wash them in a bleach solution.

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Home Remedies for Garden Pest Problems

As a Master Gardener I have been trained in Integrated Pest Management (IPM), which is simply how to get rid of garden pests more than one way. Sometimes chemical usage is the best option and sometimes organic means is the best way to go. As a long time home gardener, I lean towards the organic methods to deal with garden pest problems in my home garden. If you prefer an organic garden, try these home remedies for dealing with common garden pest problems.

Woodland Critters Repellent

Rabbits, raccoons, turtles, deer and other small woodland critters enjoy nibbling on tender, tasty garden plants. Mix up this home remedy pepper spray that will make the plants less tasty to keep the critters away. 

Place 2 cups of any variety of hot pepper (fresh, dried or mixed) and 2 cups of water in a blender and blend until smooth. Boil pepper water for 5 minutes on stove top, then strain through a piece of cheese cloth to remove pepper seeds. Pour into a spray bottle and add a few drops of liquid dish detergent. Spray hot pepper mixture on the lower leaves and stems of garden plants once a week, it won't hurt your plants but it will repel the woodland critters.

White Flies

You know there's a white fly infestation when a white cloud appears to be hovering over your garden tomato plants and/or houseplants. Get rid of the white cloud with this simple home remedy: Cut 2-inch strips of yellow plastic from a recycled container (yellow milk jug, anti-freeze or laundry detergent jug) and coat the strips with any type of cooking oil you have on hand. Place these home-made 'sticky traps' on and around the plants infested with white flies. White flies find the color yellow irresistible and with flock to the strips and become stuck in the oil. Remove sticky traps as they become full and replace with new ones until all the white flies are gone.

Slugs and Snails

Sap-sucking slugs and snails will suck the life out of garden plants unless you get rid of them. Use this easy home remedy and save your plants - Place several shallow tuna or cat food cans in garden soil so that the rim is slightly above soil level. Fill the cans with cheap beer. Slugs and snails are attracted to the yeast in the beer and will crawl in for a drink and drown. Earwigs (black bugs with pinchers) that invade gardens are also attracted to the yeast and will drown themselves while quenching their thirst. 

Place beer-filled, shallow cans on patio or porch to get rid of slugs and snails that are infesting container plants.

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Seasonal Plan to Control Weeds

Weeds are every gardener's nemesis. They pop up in the garden or flowerbed, giving it an unsightly appearance, but they do more than spoil a garden's appearance. Weeds compete with flowers and vegetables for necessary moisture and nutrients. The good news is with a seasonal plan, gardeners can take control of the pesky intruders.

Weeds are easier to remove when they are young and small. Weeding when these pests are at a tender stage makes the task easier and more successful, especially when removing weeds with shallow roots. Removing weeds early also reduces their chance of producing seeds and spreading.

In the spring, remove young weeds as they first begin to emerge. At this stage, hoeing is an effective removal method. Hoeing also helps to aerate the soil. To keep weed growth down, gardeners should hoe around plants weekly. Mulching around plants is another effective method of inhibiting weed growth during the growing season.

In summer, gardeners should watch for weeds that sprout up throughout the warmer weather. As new weeds grow, gardeners can keep them under control by hoeing or hand-pulling. For larger areas, or gardens with wide rows, the gardener can use a rototiller to control weeds as needed.

During fall, gardeners should continue to watch and control weed growth as they harvest vegetables or tend to flowerbeds. After harvesting vegetables, gardeners can till the soil under and place black plastic sheeting over the area to inhibit weed growth during winter and early spring.

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Learning How to Grow a Bountiful Spring Garden: Confessions of a Rookie Gardener

Hello, my name is Sophie Walton and I confess to murder...murder of my spring garden.
Sometime after turning 45, I decided that I was Ouiser (aka "Weezer") from Steel Magnolias. I should wear overalls and a floppy hat while growing tomatoes. There was one problem with this scenario: I had no idea how to grow a spring garden. My idea of gardening was browsing through the Whole Foods next to my office, but I was determined that I would learn how to garden in spite of my husband's irritating laughter every time I mentioned the words "spring garden."

I wish that I could say I am an expert gardener but I cannot. However, I have managed to learn enough spring gardening tips to keep my plants alive for a full season.

Five spring gardening tips from the trenches

• Dirt is important. Who knew that dirt came in different types? I was very proud of my first spring garden. The rows were so neatly planted, I remembered to water my plants each day and plucked each weed that dared to raise its ugly head in my garden. Then all of my plants died! Good garden soil must include a mixture of fertilizers, including organic animal manures and nitrogen for young plants to grow and thrive. You should also look for soil that allows for good drainage. A great garden begins with good soil.
• Timing is everything. One reason my first garden failed is I went to the home improvement store, chose the prettiest tomato plants they had, brought them home and plunked them into my garden. I did not understand why those pretty, lush, healthy plants died within a few weeks. It was because they were greenhouse plants and bringing them home and thrusting them into the reality of my garden was too much for them to handle, so they did the only thing they could -- withered and died. I learned that it was too early in the season to plant tomatoes in my area. Once I learned more about the seasons of planting (you can check your USDA plant hardiness map here), my spring garden began to flourish and produce edible vegetables and fruit.
• Vegetables do have friends. Who knew that there was more to the children's cartoon "Veggie Tales" than a biblical lesson. There is also a great tip for spring gardeners: Some vegetables prefer to grow beside other vegetables. For example, my tomatoes did much better when I grew them with basil and my corn, and green beans do much better when they are side-by-side. Some plants thrive off other plants when they are paired together in a spring garden. Before planting, refer to this chart to find the vegetables that are friendly with each other and those that are bad companions in the garden.
• Weeds are bad. I hate weeding because it is tedious and boring. However, I quickly learned that if I do not stay on top of weeding, it quickly becomes a huge gardening problem. I pluck weeds each time I water my garden, and I also learned how to control weeds naturally with mulch. Weed control is important to keep your garden healthy.
• A protected garden is a successful garden. I am a firm believer that part of the reason we experience more illnesses now than ever before is because of what we put into our body, the ground, and the air around us. Therefore, I hated the thought of using any type of chemical pesticides in my garden. Unfortunately, without some type of garden pest control, my tender vegetable plants were a feast for insects and other garden parasites. I found that using organic pesticides and learning about organic pest control helped stop weeds and other insects from reaping what I had sowed.

As I prepare for spring gardening this year, I rejoice over the fact that my husband had to literally "eat his words" as he enjoys the fruits of my labor each year.

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Of Flowers and Failures: Spring Gardening Tips for Beginners

I've never been a "successful" gardener, but I learn more through failure each year! Here are some spring gardening lessons from my mistakes!

Consider sunlight
I was fortunate to buy a house with a thriving backyard terrace. The plants are well-established and self-sufficient. My front yard, however, hosts an empty garden bed I am determined to fill. I turned the ground, added fresh soil, and sewed some seeds. The first few sprouts were thrilling, but withered quickly in the nearly-constant sunlight. I always thought sun was good for plants, but in the case of my fragile flowers, too much of a good thing was the end.

Cooking water This is a weird tip I've heard from a number of sources whenever I ask for any sage (or rosemary, or thyme) gardening advice. After steaming veggies, boiling potatoes, or cooking pasta, don't dump the water down the sink, let it cool completely, then use it to water your garden. The idea is that the nutrients seeped out during cooking will add additional potential to garden soils.

Start plants indoors
New England weather is unpredictable at best, and spiteful at worst. While I have learned to weather the weather, tiny plant sprouts are not so resilient. Give your plants a head-start by starting them indoors, and carefully transferring them outside when they are established. I have had the best luck with moving windowsill flowers. Repurposed egg cartons make fabulous starter-beds.

Veggies vs. flowers
If you are a novice gardener, or a hopeless garden-enthusiast like me, you should consider the differences between vegetables and flowers. True, there are perennial flowers, which should bloom every year, but that is only if your roots take, and you are able to fully-establish the plant. Vegetables, on the other hand, tend to grow faster, and are heartier, more forgiving plants. And they're food!

Rabbits like bulbs I planted some tulip bulbs, admiring their resilience, and hoping the flowers would root strongly, and return to bloom each year. After an unseasonable spring heat-wave, my flowers withered, and I learned… that we had rabbits-and rabbits eat flower bulbs! They even left the bulb scraps at my front door! To avoid garden nibbling, encircle bulb-plants with rough gravel, and set up feeders away from your garden.
One day, I will have a successful outdoor garden, but for now I'm still learning, and soaking up the sun with the flowers!

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How to Fix Yellowing Leaves in Your House Plant

Introduction

No one wants to see a yellowing house plant. It's a sign of neglect, and a plant that is lacking the essential nutrients for its growth. A green plant is about striking the perfect balance for the plant to thrive in. There are a number of factors for you to consider.

There are four factors to consider:

• · Lighting
• · Fertilizer
• · Water
• · Plastic Versus Clay Containers

• 1. Lighting

First, see if your plant is getting the right amount of light. Check the store tag on your species of plant; see how much light it requires and adjust the light accordingly. Move the plant closer to window if it requires more light; if it's getting too much light than move it further away from the window.

• 2. Fertilizer

Second, the tag in the plant will tell you to fertilize the plant every month or so; make sure you follow the instructions to the letter. Many times the plant yellows because of a deficiency in nitrogen; you may want to add bone meal or some other kind of organic fertilizer. An easy all purpose fertilizer to use is fish meal.

• 3. Water

Third, never over water a houseplant. The best way to figure out if it needs to be watered is to buy a moisture meter. You only water it periodically once a week and only when the meter is red and says, 'Dry'.

• 4. Plastic Versus Clay Containers

If you keep your plant in the store bought plastic container, you will not need to water it much. Plastic containers do not dry quickly, so abstain from overwatering and use a moisture meter to find out if it's dry. A better pot is a clay container for your houseplant; they will dry much faster.

Dracaenas

Since, there are so many plants to buy for beginners I would suggest the species Dracaena. Dracaenas make for beautiful house and office plants; and they require minimal care.

Remove Yellowing Leaves

If there are many leaves and some are yellow, I suggest you cut off the yellowing ones. You may cut off the yellowed leaf tips and shape the leaves with scissors to make them look more natural. Fortunately, there should be many green ones -so the plant won't look too cut up. If they're all yellow then don't cut them all, and try to remedy the solution with what I suggested.

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How to Identify and Prevent Common Vegetable Plant Diseases

Plants are vulnerable to many diseases. These diseases are mostly caused by fungi and viruses. There are also a few bacterial infections that attack plants and produce similar symptoms to those of fungi. Their is a long list of ways plant diseases can sneak into a garden and attack the plants. They can already be present in the seeds you sow. They could be in the soil around the roots of a plant, or carried in the soil on the soles of your shoes. They may also come in on new plants or plant material from the nursery or garden store where you purchased them. They can even arrive in the garden on a wind. Here is a list of some very common plant disease, what they infect, symptoms and how to prevent and control them.

MILDEW: This affects peas, onions, lettuce, spinach and cabbage. The powdery and downy mildew produce a white or gray mold, it is often found in round patches. Downey mildew appears on the undersides of leaves in cool, damp conditions. Powdery mildew forms on the top in dry conditions. To prevent this disease do not overcrowd plants or over water them. Look for mildew resistant varieties. Remove any plant debris promptly. To chemically control them you will use green and yellow sulfur for powdery mildew and for down mildew you will use the chemical mancozeb.

BLIGHT: This disease affects potatoes and tomatoes. Blight favors warm,wet weather. It progresses rapidly on potatoes. The first signs are dark blotches on the leaves, followed by rapid wilting and yellowing of the foliage and stems. Then the plant will usually collapse in a few days. Blight is less dramatic on tomatoes, but is still serious. The leaves start collapsing and the fruit develop brown rotting patches. A different organism is responsible for early blight, which causes brown spots on the leaves it is much less serious. Warnings are often given when the right combination of humidity and temperature are present. To prevent further damage when you spot the disease on potato foliage remove and burn the top growth. If you harvest the crop right away the tubers may be unaffected. Destroy infected crop remains by burning them. Planting tomatoes in greenhouse are less likely to be attacked by this disease. There are a few different types of chemicals you can use on this disease they are mancozeb, copper sulfate and copper oxychloride.

BOTRYTIS (GRAY MOLD): This disease affects many different crops, especially lettuce and tomatoes. It produces a fluffy gray mold growth, under this growth the plant tissue rots. This fungus starts on dead tissue but spreads quickly to live parts. It is found quite often in greenhouses. It prefers cool, damp places. To help prevent this disease keep greenhouses well ventilated. Make sure your plants are not overcrowded, water early in the day and do not splash water. When you spot any of this disease clear all the dead and dying plant debris away.Cut out and destroy any affected parts.

WILT: This disease affects tomato and cabbage family. Fusarium wilt is the most common type. Young plants become pale and stunted, lower leaves yellow and wilt. The symptoms move upward and plants may die. Verticillium wilt causes similar symptoms but without one-sided effects. Wilt diseases are worse in the hot weather. To prevent this disease grow only disease resistant plants. Clear away any infected plant debris and rotate crops. Their are no chemicals to use on this disease.

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Get Rid of Bugs on Houseplants

If your houseplants aren't looking as healthy as they once did, your houseplants might be infested with bugs. Examine the soil and the undersides of leaves, and look for telltale signs of insects. Look for the bugs themselves as well as tiny webs, cotton-like tufts, sticky residue, or scaly lesions. These are all signs of a bug infestation.

If you discover your houseplants have a minor bug problem, you can try home remedies to get rid of bugs before they cause irreparable damage. If your houseplants are severely infested, home remedies probably won't help. Although you may not want to get rid of plants you've had for a long time, it's best to dispose of them before the bugs spread to healthy houseplants.
Try the following home remedies for minor insect problems. These home remedies are safe around pets and kids, and they are an effective way to get rid of bugs on houseplants without harming the environment.

Precautions to Consider
Avoid using soap products on plants if your home isn't air-conditioned during hot weather, and avoid placing plants in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight magnified by soap bubbles can burn foliage.
Also, don't use home remedies that contain spice or rubbing alcohol on flowering indoor plants. These home remedies can damage delicate blooms.

After allowing these remedies to remain on the leaves and stems of plants for several minutes, follow up by misting them with clear water in an effort to prevent damage from soap scum, strong spices, and astringents.

Spice and Soap
If bugs on plants seem especially difficult to get rid of, try a mixture of hot peppers and vegetable oil soap. Puree a hot pepper in a blender along with a clove of garlic, and add one and a half cups of water and one tablespoon of liquid vegetable oil soap. Put this mixture in a spray bottle, and spray the foliage of indoor plants. Don't forget to spray the underside of leaves where bugs can hide.

Oil Soap Spray
Vegetable oil soap can be a very effective home remedy for getting rid of insects on indoor plants. Soap suffocates bugs. To make this solution, combine one tablespoon of vegetable oil soap with two quarts of water. Put this mixture in a sprayer, and be sure to cover the tops and bottoms of leaves as well as the surface of the soil. Since this is a mild remedy, it might be necessary to repeat the application in a few days.

Rubbing Alcohol
Dry out bugs and eradicate them by coating stems and foliage with rubbing alcohol. Simply apply rubbing alcohol to cotton balls, and delicately clean the leaves and stems, but avoid using rubbing alcohol on young tender growth. Bugs that come in contact with the rubbing alcohol with dry out and die. Don't forget the undersides of leaves where bugs tend to hide.

Soap Suds
Soapsuds can be an effective home remedy for getting rid of insects on indoor plants. Simply squirt a little biodegradable dishwashing soap, not detergent, in a clean bucket or sink. Create soap bubbles with a strong steam of water, and cover indoor plants with the bubbles in an effort to suffocate harmful bugs.

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Insects on Houseplants

Recognizing, Treating and Preventing Insects on Houseplants

I am an Horticulturist and for 36 years I worked in interior tropical greenhouses. I specialized in interior tropical plants; houseplants. Many of my houseplants are gems I grew form small cuttings that have developed into large, lush specimens. Even though my home does not have a great amount of natural light, I selected the types of plants that would grow well in the amount of light I can provide for them. I have many plants in my home and have put them in groups of gardens in different rooms where the light levels are the highest. These gardens are groupings of plants that take the same light levels and the same water requirements. The plants are in decorative pottery that enhances the color of the leaves of each plant as well as the color schemes of the individual rooms. They are a focal point upon entering the room.

Of all the web sites I visited in reference to houseplant insects, I have not yet found one that gives a thorough description of how to get rid of insects once and for all, or how to prevent them in the first place. These next few articles in this series will list all the methods I use to keep my plants healthy and insect free-or at least how I keep insects at bay. Keeping them totally insect free is next to impossible. The bugs are out there and they will get to your plants at one time or another. That is nature's way. I will help you to learn how to identify them and what to do when you see them on your plants. The articles will be in the order that my experiences find those infestations hardest to destroy with least harm to the plants.

As I was learning about plant maintenance throughout the years, I learned the importance of clustering like plants together to increase the humidity around the grouping, as well as in the room. This clustering is great in providing humidity but it is also one way for insects to spread easily from one plant to another.

Those insects that affect houseplants have mouthparts that penetrate the surface of the plant and suck nutrients from it. The breathing holes are on either side of the body, allowing the bug to breath while it is feeding. Mealy bug is an insect covered with a white, sticky, waxy-like substance that protects the soft, brown body within. It allows water to run off the body, having no effect on the insect at all. The egg sacs are the cottony-like sacs found along vein lines on the top and bottom of leaves as well as in the crevices of leaf nodes and stems. The egg sacs can also develop around the root ball inside the pot. The egg sacs start out as tiny flecks of a dust-like substance that floats on air currents and is carried though the rooms in your home. These sacs will travel until they hit a surface and then will adhere to that surface until the time is right for the eggs inside to swell and grow. These sacs can remain on a rough surface, such as the underside of a shelf or window sill for up to ten years waiting until temperature and humidity are right for growth and development.

Once an egg hatches, the miniature adult climbs to the nearest plant and inserts its mouth parts into the plant surfaces and begins feeding. It will remain this way for as long as the nutrient flow provides enough for the insect's needs. The insects multiply rapidly and within a few weeks, an infestation can cover a plant. If left untreated, the infestation will kill the plant in time. As the females lay more egg sacs, they will accumulate and with any movement of the leaves by wind or other disturbance, they will float on the air currents to other areas. The adults can also crawl from one plant to another and when the plants are close to each other, the spread of the insects is that much easier. Mealy can fall in to your watering can and fall in to the soil of other plants with the water. If a pet happens to brush an infested plant, mealy can fall on its fur and travel to the next food source by hitching a ride.

One of the major signs of mealy on a plant is a sticky glaze that may cover one or several leaf surfaces. This is the secreation of the insects that falls from an infested leaf above. This honey dew may fall on the flooring or furniture beneith the plant and dissolves easily with warm water.

Of all the insects that infest houseplants, I consider the mealy bug to be the most difficult to get rid if entirely. The main reason is because of the egg sac's ability to remain dormant for so long and still be viable. The treatment for this insect takes time, dedication and persistence. To treat an infestation, you need to make a total commitment to your plant. If you do not, the insects will win every time--garanteed.

Meal bug is a type of soft-shelled scale. I will cover other scale insects in the next article. The waxy-like substance covering the body acts like a shield against moisture, either evaporating or penetrating. This makes using some substances ineffective in harming the body beneath. Because the shells are soft, it is easy to kill the insects by rubbing them with you fingers and squashing them. This is the most effect method of killing the bugs without harm to you or the plant. They cannot develop and effective immunity to this method, although it is a bit messy. This is also the only truly organic method of killing the insects. The other alternative is with the use of chemicals.

One of the best chemicals that has an instant effect on the insect is rubbing alcohol. It immediately dissolves the waxy covering exposing the body and it dies very quickly. This must hit the body to be effective and has no lingering power to affect any other adults or egg sacs. It only works for mealy bug and will not affect any of the other insects that attack houseplants. The alcohol evaporates very quickly so it does not harm the foliage unless it is used in too high a dosage. I often put the alcohol in a spray bottle and spray the foliage to the dripping point, trying not to saturate the soil or the delicate tips, as the alcohol can burn new foliage. Rinsing the leaves after spraying helps to minimize leaf burn on the older leaves.

Horticultural oil is also very effective in killing meal bug. The oil covers the mouth parts, causing the insect to suffocate. This is also an effective way to kill them as the insects cannot build up an immunity against suffocation. There is, however, no chemical that is totally safe and not-toxic. The whole point of the chemical is to kill, and the only safe part comes with using it according to the manufacture's recommendations. I have seen on too many occasions how the excess of these chemicals have killed the plant before it has affected the insect population.

Alcohol is effective and safe if you use it every couple of days rather than daily. For a really heavy infestation--one where the insect seems to be everywhere on the plant, you will need to us the three above methods to be even a little bit effective in getting rid of the problem. First, spray the horticultural oil on every part of the plant. You need to spray in an area where the residue will not harm pets or other people; a separate room or basement. Let the plant dry thoroughly before bringing it back to its place. Make sure you never use any insecticide when the plant is in sun as it will cause sever burning to the leaves.

This is the first step on day one. The second step is the next day to spray any egg sacs you find with alcohol. After the alcohol dries, you must use your fingers to eradicated any other individuals or sacs you find. Repeat this daily until day seven when you can spray with the chemical once again. You need to repeat this procedure daily, cleaning with the hands, using the rubbing alcohol, and spraying weekly with the insecticide until you do not find any new insects for two straight weeks. And, yes, this is a lot of work but if you are not diligent with the daily program, I can guarantee you will never get rid of the infestation completely. It will always come back after a bit.

But you must also clean the areas around the infected plants because the eggs can be on the shelves, curtains, windows, fixtures, or any other surface close to the plants. Be sure to remove all the plants from the area where they stay, and clean it well with a mild solution of warm soapy water. The sponge or cleaning rag is very effective in eradication of dormant egg sacs.

Many of my customers have mentioned using dish detergent as an insecticide. In all of my experiences with plants where the owner used dish detergent, even in a mild solution, resulted in sever foliage burn. And if the solution gets into the soil and is not rinsed out immediately, the roots can also suffer to the point of plant death.

Because this is such a time consuming method of eradication, the best method is by preventing the problem in the very beginning. As I stated earlier, insects are out there and they are looking for food. If you can take a few moments one day each week to carefully inspect each plant, you are in the best position to stop an infestation completely. Check each plant by looking on the top and bottom of leaves, checking the branches and stems, and looking at the soil; you will see anything that may develop in to something that may harm your plant. An infestation begins with just one or two individuals, and by killing any bugs with your fingers, there will never be a problem. If, of course, you let several weeks or months go by, then you may find a big problem. Again, it is being in this routine of careful examination that is most beneficial to you and your plants.

I cannot stress the importance of this weekly check because the consequences are so difficult to eradicate and all too often the plant dies long before the insect infestation. I have lost many prized plants to the treatment of an infestation. The chemicals take a toll on your plants, especially if the plants are weakened by an infestation. By giving your plants all the light they need, the proper amount of water they require, and an occasional solution of fertilizer, you can keep your plants healthy and strong and that will help them fight off any insects that may try to munch on them.

I want to mention one major factor that often is a cause for an insect infestation. This is placing your plants outside for the summer months. Because the United States has a tropical-like summer, tropical plants thrive when placed out side where they will get high light, high humidity, and gentle warm breezes--all the elements for a thriving plant. (See the article Placing houseplants outside for the summer.) This is not where the problem lies. It is when you bring the plants back in for the winter months that cause the plant to weaken due to the lower light and humidity levels. When the light level drops, the plant cannot sustain all the beautiful new growth of summer, and drops all the leaves it needs to balance the amount of food production with the amount of foliage. When being out side, the plant is also subjected to all the insects in nature, and combined with the weakened effect of the reduction in light, an infestation can gain hold even faster than if the plant remained inside all summer.

These are proven methods of eradication and prevention of insect infestations on houseplants. With patience and persistence, they work every time in helping to keep all your indoor plants healthy and strong.

Here is a list of indoor plants that mealy bug love:
-African Violets--streptocarpus (Cape Primrose)--All Succulents and Cactus--All Ficus--All Hdera (Ivies)--All Beginias ---Most Dracaena species--Clivia--Aglonema (Chinese Evergreen)--Coelus--Dieffenbachia (Dumb cane)--Anthurium Hibiscus--Poinsettia (Which is a succulent. See "Oh those Pionsettias!")--Philodendren and Pothos (Devil's' Ivy)
-All Genariads: Aescanthanthus Lipstick vine), Columnea (Goldfish Plant), Epescia
-Fittonia--All Citrus--Gardenia--Dizygotheca (Fales Aralia)--Fatsia (Japinese Aralia)--Gynura (Purple Passon)
-All Hedera (Ivy)--Strlitizia (Bird of Paradise)--Heliconia--Heptaplerurum (Arboricala)--Scheflera--Hypostes (Pola-a-dot Plant)--Mantra (Prayer Plants)Plectranthus (swedish Ivy)--Podocarpus (Buddhist Pine)--Saxifraga (Strawberry Begonia)--Senicia (Geraman Ivy)--cisus and Rhoicussus (Grape Ivy)--Tetrastigma (Chesnut Vine or Lizzard Plant)
-All Orchids.

As you can see, the list is extensive. In fact, there are very few of the tropical indoor species that mealy bug will not attack. So be on the loolout for them before they become a major problem.
HAPPY GARDENING

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Choosing Healthy Houseplants

There is no doubt about it; houseplants transform a house to a home bringing both color and life to your living area. Lush green foliage - particularly in the midst of winter - uplifts the spirit and invigorates the soul. Choosing the right houseplants for your home and your lifestyle makes the difference between a tropical paradise and barren desert filled with dead and dying plants. I should know. I've experienced both. 

Lighting Before you step foot in that greenhouse brimming with fresh new growth, you need to know what you are looking for. That means understanding the amount of light in your home - as each plant's light requirements are different. Bringing home that tropical plant that thrives in the midst of the rain forest and placing it in direct sunlight is a recipe for disaster. Knowing the lighting in your home or office allows you to choose plants that will thrive in those conditions. Browse for plants that match the lighting you have to offer and resist the urge to choose that gorgeous sun-loving plant if all you have to offer is filtered light.

Foliage Examine the foliage of your new plant before you make a purchase. Leaves should be healthy and green - or the proper shade for that particular plant, well formed and full-size. Stunted or discolored leaves are a sign of poor care and may signal disease. Yellowed lower leaves are a no-no, too.

Shape The overall plant should be dense and compact with ample foliage. Vining plants should not have large spaces between leaves and all but the leaves on the growing tip should be full size. Small stunted leaves along the vine indicate poor health. Tall leggy plants suffer from a lack of light or overcrowded growing conditions.

Soil

Check the soil for any signs of mold or mildew. This may appear fuzzy green, white or black. Check for unpleasant odors - such as a sour or moldy smell. Healthy soil smells fresh, is free of plant debris, and is moist - but not soggy.

Roots Inspect the bottom of the pot for roots that have grown through the drainage holes. This indicates the plant is pot bound and in need of repotting. Remaining in a pot that is too small may have stressed the plant, making it susceptible to disease. Likewise, roots that protrude above the surface of the soil or are tightly wound inside the pot are signals the plant has outgrown its container.

Insects Check the undersides of leaves for any signs of insects. Look for tiny white webs or chew marks on the leaves. These may appear as jagged edges or leaves may have a buckshot appearance. Even if there are no insects present, chew marks open your plants to fungus and other diseases.

Bringing Your Plant Home Isolate your new houseplant from other plants for at least a week once you bring it home. Insects or disease can easily be transferred to your existing plants risking their health. Some prefer to wash new plants in sudsy water made from a drop or two of dish detergent and warm water. If you suspect an insect infestation, washing the plants is a good practice.

Choosing new houseplants wisely ensures healthy plants that can add life to your home. With proper care most plants thrive in the average home - even in the midst of winter. So go ahead, indulge in new plants to lift the spirits, but don't forget to check their health before you bring them home.

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What Is Sustainable Gardening?

The meaning of sustainable gardening often confuses people, who do not have a garden. They think that when a person has a sustainable garden it means that they grow enough food to sustain them and their family throughout the year, without relying on grocery store items. I can somewhat understand their confusion because according to Webster.com the word sustain means to supply with substance or nourish. This same meaning can apply to sustainable gardens. Certain factors and elements supply substance and nourishment to a garden in order for it to survive, with little effort provided from a gardener.

Sustainable gardens rely on things such as soil, fertilizer, water, and pesticides to produce and maintain healthy plants and vegetables. When a gardener has a perfect balance of these factors, very little work is needed to maintain the garden.

Soil

Poor producing vegetable and other garden plants can be attributed to poor soil. An unbalanced pH level, too many weeds, poor drainage, and nutrient deficient soil not only leads to plant problems but also will cause the gardener a lot of work just trying to keep the plants healthy. A gardener should have their garden soil tested each year and add soil amendments as needed to rectify the pH balance in the soil and nutrient content. Adding organic rich compost will also help to enrich the soil.

Weeds

No one likes to pull weeds, so keep them at a minimum by using weed barriers such as mulch or plastic. Consider planting in raised beds with graveled walkways. Mulch will help prevent water runoff and acts as a barrier to water evaporation. It also helps to keep the soil temperature from fluctuating, reducing the chances of rot damage. Over time, mulch will break down and added valuable nutrients to the soil. Fewer weeds will help eliminate pests, reducing the need for the use of pesticides. Plants will not have to compete with weeds for water if there are fewer weeds.

Water

Although having an adequate supply of water is an important requirement for a sustainable garden, water drainage must also be considered. Water saturation is an easy and quick way to kill healthy, producing plants.

Pesticides

Healthy soil and weed elimination are great ways to keep pests at bay. Another easy fix for unwanted bugs is companion planting. Many bugs are naturally repelled by specific plants. Doing a little research to find out which plants repel which bugs and then planting those plants can save a gardener time and money, as well as having chemical free produce.

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Outdoor Plants that Are Dangerous to Your Pets

When we own pets, it's very important to know about the plants we grow in our yards and whether or not they can harm or be fatal to our furry friends. There are several plants that are poisonous to our cats and dogs.

Tiger lilies are beautiful plants but are among the most poisonous plants for our cats. Jasmine contains the worst poison for our dogs. Even though my cats are indoor pets, one of them in particular is able to speed out the door as fast as a bolt of lightening as soon as the door opens. He also will chew on and attempt to digest anything, moving or stationary. My belief is that he has used up his 9 lives and somehow has managed to make a deal along the way. I didn't think a cat could eat insulation and still remain alive.

When I decided to put in some plants outside, I kept him in mind because I knew it was inevitable that he would eventually be munching on one thing or another out there. I chose things that I knew wouldn't harm his tummy, even though I swear this cat has a stomach of steel.

I will go over the list of poisonous plants that are especially harmful to your dog. The asparagus fern will cause vomiting, kidney failure, abdominal pain, respiratory problems, and tremors in your dog. Plants like the caladium, elephant's ear, Dieffenbachia, poinsettia, mum, philodendron, umbrella plant, and mistletoe are equally as dangerous. The common side effects your dog will experience from these are things like mouth irritation, mouth swelling, stomach upset, asphyxiation, seizures, tremors, vomiting, skin irritation, and even death. Although aloe vera can be wonderful for our skin, it does not have the same sooting effect on your dog's stomach and can give him diarrhea.

There are certain vines and trees that can cause your dog to go into shock. These trees and vines can cause mouth inflammation, diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal pain, rapid increase in breathing, convulsions, asphyxiation, hyperactivity, excessive drooling (I know...with some dogs, how can you tell??), fever, pupil dilation, and death. The list of these vines and trees is as follows: Virginia Creeper, English Ivy, Devil's Ivy, oak, Ficus lyrata, cherry, Ficus, wild cherry, almond, apricot, peach, Japanese plum, matrimony vine, jasmine, balsam pear, yew, and apple.

Even though your kitty will not usually eat anything more than grass outside, which we have established is certainly not true for my cat, there are plants your cat may nibble on that can be harmful to him. Azaleas are toxic to your cat. The leaves and stems of the chrysanthemum are toxic by way of causing dermatitis. Most of the time, just the smell of the chrysanthemum is enough to keep cats away. Daffodils, hydrangeas, and the iris can give your cat stomach pains, vomiting, diarrhea, and weakness.

Ivy is the the one to be extremely cautious of. It can cause serious tummy troubles, breathing difficulty, coma, or death. The pods and seeds of wisteria can cause vomiting, dehydration, diarrhea, and collapse. Of course, as mentioned in the beginning, the ingestion of any part of the tiger lily can ultimately lead to death.

When my cat became lethargic one day I started to get very concerned, because it was not like him to ever take a break from creating havoc all around. Then he got up and made his way slowly to the kitchen and proceeded to projectile vomit the grossest substance I've personally ever smelled. After spending a half hour cleaning up the floor and nearly losing my lunch several times, I survived it, and thankfully he felt better in a day. I don't know what in the world he had gotten into that time, but I took steps to block off things I thought might have caused his intestinal distress. The best thing to do if you suspect your pet has gotten into a poisonous plant is take them to the veterinarian.

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Plants that Are Poisonous to Rabbits

Common Toxic Plants to Rabbits

Our environment is filled with poisonous substances that are dangerous to humans as well as our pets. Rabbits are notorious for nibbling on articles that aren't necessarily good for their health which includes many common plants that can potentially dangerous, even deadly. While many plants are toxic to animals, rabbits can be more susceptible as it can take the smallest amount of toxins to cause irreversible damage. There are literally hundreds of plants or portions of plants that are poisonous to rabbits but there are a few that are more common.

MILKWEED

One of the most common plant poisoning in rabbits is milkweed poisoning. Almost all cases of poisoning by this plant have been reported only in the southwestern United States. The poisoning occurs when rabbits have been given hay that was harvested containing the wooly pod milkweed. It only takes ¼ of a percent of the rabbit's body weight of green milkweed to kill a rabbit. Usually the toxin causes paralysis in the neck muscles and is sometimes referred to as "head down disease". If the rabbit survives the poisoning, an owner will need to provide nursing care until the rabbit has recovered.

FRUITS & VEGETABLES

Many common fruits are given regularly to rabbits as treats that they truly enjoy. However, the seeds of the apple and pear and the pits of apricots contain cyanide and are poisonous to rabbits and should always be removed before given to your pet for consumption. Other poisonous foods include the avocado, certain parts of the potato and the tomato plant, among others.

OTHER TOXIC PLANTS INCLUDE:

Acokanthera

African evergreen

African rue

Agapanthus

Aloe vera

Alsike clover

Amanita

Amaryllis

Amaryllis belladonna

Anemone

Angel trumpet tree

Anthurium

Apple seeds

Apple leaf croton

Apricot pits

Arrowgrass

Arrowhead vine

Asparagus fern

Atropa belladonna

Autumn crocus

Avocado

Azalea

Baccharis

Balsam

Balsam pear

Baneberry

Beach pea

Beargrass

Beefsteak plant

Begonia

Belladonna lily

Betel nut palm

Bird of paradise

Bird of paradise bush

Bittersweet

Bitterweed

Black henbane

Black locust

Black nightshade

Black root

Bladderpod

Bleeding heart

Bloodroot

Bluebonnet

Blue cohosh

Blue-green algae

Bog Kalmia

Boston ivy

Bottlebrush

Boxwood

Bracken fern

Branching ivy

Broomcorn

Broomweed

Buckeye

Buckthorn

Bull nettle

Bunchberry

Burroweed

Buttercup

Butterfly weed

Cactus thorn

Caesalpinia

Caladium

Calendula

Calico bush

California fern

California geranium

California holly

Calla lily

Candelabra cactus

Cardinal flower

Carnation

Carolina jessamine

Carolina Laurel Cherry

Casava

Cassine

Castor bean

Century plant

Ceriman

Chalice vine

Cherries

Cherry laurel

Chinaberry tree

Chinese evergreen

Chives

Chokecherry

Christmas berry

Christmas candle

Christmas rose

Cineraria

Clematis

Cloak fern

Clover, Alsike

Cocklebur

Coffeebean

Cohosh

Colorado rubberweed

Columbine

Common privet

Coral berry

Coral plant

Cordatum

Corn cockle

Corn lily

Corn plant

Cotoneaster

Covotillo

Cowslip

Crab's eye

Crocus

Croton

Crown-of-thorns

Crown vetch

Crow poison

Cuban laurel

Cuckoopint

Curcas bean

Cutleaf philodendron

Cycads

Cyclamen

Daffodil

Daisy

Daphne

Datura

Deadly amanita

Deadly nightshade

Death-camas

Death cup

Delphinium

Desert tobacco

Destroying angel

Devil's ivy

Devil's tomato

Dianthus

Dieffenbachia

Dogbane

Dogwood

Doll's Eyes

Dracaena palm

Dragon tree

Drymary

Dumb cane

Durra

Dutchman's breeches

Dutchman's pipe

Eggplant-the fruit is not toxic, only the plant

Elaine

Elderberry

Elephant's ear

Emerald duke

Emerald feather

English ivy

English laurel

Euonymus

Euphorbia

Evening trumpet

Exotica perfection

Eyebane

False henbane

False hellebore

False parsley

Fiddle-leaf fig

Fiddleneck

Firecracker

Firethorn

Fireweed

Florida beauty

Fluffy ruffles

Fly agaric

Fly poison

Fool's parsley

Four o'clock

Foxglove

Foxwood

Frijolito

Fruit salad plant

Garden sorrel

Garlic

Gelsemium

Geranium, California

German ivy

Ghostweed

Giant dumbcane

Glacier ivy

Gladiola

Glecoma hederacea

Glory lily

Goatweed

Gold dieffenbachia

Gold dust dracaena

Goldenchain tree

Golden pothos

Gold-toothed aloe

Greasewood

Green-gold nephythytis

Ground ivy

Groundsel

Groundsel

Guajillo

Halogeton

Hawaiian baby wood rose

Heart ivy

Heartleaf

Heavenly bamboo

Hedge apples

Hellebore

Hemlock

Henbane, Black

Hogwort

Holly

Horsebrush

Horsechestnut

Horse nettle

Horsetail reed

Hyacinth

Hydrangea

Impatiens

Indian hemp

Indian laurel

Indian rubber plant

Indian tobacco

Indian turnip

Indigo

Inkberry

Inkweed

Iris

Jack-in-the-pulpit

Jamestown weed

Jatropha

Java bean

Jequirity bean

Jerusalem cherry

Jessamine

Jimmy fern

Jimson weed

Johnson grass

Juniper

Kafir

Kalmia

Klamath weed

Laburnum

Lady slipper

Lambkill

Lantana camara

Larkspur

Lecheguilla

Ligustrum

Lily of the valley

Lima bean

Lobelia

Locoweed

Lords-and-ladies

Lupine

Machineel

Madagascar dragon tree

Majesty

Mandrake

Marble queen

Marijuana

Marsh marigold

Mayapple

Mescal

Mescal bean

Mesquite

Mexican breadfruit

Mexicantes

Milkvetch

Milkweed

Milo

Miniature croton

Mistletoe

Moccasin flower

Monkshood

Moonseed

Morning glory

Mother-in-law

Mountain laurel

Mushroom

Narcissus

Natal cherry

Nephthytis

Needlepoint ivy

Nicotiana

Night-blooming jasmine

Nightshade

Nightshade

Oaks including the acorns

Oleander

Onion

Orange milkweed

Orange sneezeweed

Oxalis

Palma christi

Panda

Paper flowers

Paradise plant

Parlor ivy

Parsnip

Partridge breast

Peach pits

Pear seeds

Pencilbush

Pencil cactus

Peony

Peregrina

Perill mint

Periwinkle

Peyote

Philodendron

Pigweed

Pingue

Pinks

Plum seeds

Plumosa fern

Poinciana

Poinsettia

Poison hemlock

Poison ivy

Poison nut

Poison oak

Poison parsnip

Poison sumac

Pokeberry

Pokeroot

Poke salad

Pokeweed

Poppy, except California

Pot marigold

Pot mum

Potato-any part that is green and the eyes that grow on the potato

Pothos

Precatory bean

Prickly copperweed

Prickly poppy

Primrose

Primula

Privet

Purge nut

Purple sesbane

Psychic nut

Pyracantha

Queen Anne's Lace

Ranunculus

Rattlebox

Rattleweed

Rayless goldenrod

Red emerald

Red-margined dracaena

Red princess

Red sage

Rhododendron

Rhubarb

Ribbon plant

Ripple ivy

Rosary bean

Rosary pea

Rosebay

Rosemary

Rum cherry

Sacahuista

Saddle leaf philodendron

Sage

Sago palm

Sand begonia

Satin pothos

Schefflera

Scotch broom

Senecio

Senna bean

Sesbane

Shamrock plant

Sheep laurel

Silverleaf

Silverling

Silver pothos

Skunk cabbage

Slinkweed

Snapdragon

Snapweed

Snowdrop

Snow-on-the-mountain

Solanum

Solomon's seal

Sorghum

Spathe flower

Spider mum

Split-leaf philodendron

Spoonflower

Spotted dumb cane

Sprengeri fern

Spurge

Squill

Squirrel corn

Staggergrass

Star of Bethlehem

Stinkweed

St. Johnswort

Stranomium

String of beads

Striped dracaena

Sudan grass

Swamp laurel

Sweet pea

Sweet William

Swiss cheese plant

Sweetheart ivy

Tansy

Tansy ragwort

Taro

Taro vine

Thorn apple

Tiger lily

Toadstools

Tobacco

Tomato plant

Touch-me-not

Toyon

Tree philodendron

Tropic snow

Trumpet plant

Trumpet vine

Tullidora

Tulip bulbs

Turpentine weed

Umbrella plant

Variegated philodendron

Venus flytrap

Victoria regia

Violet

Virginia creeper

Warneckei dracaena

Water hemlock

White snakeroot

Windflower

Wisteria

Wolfsbane

Woodbine

Woodrose

Woody nightshade

Yam bean-roots

Yaupon holly

Yellow knapweed

Yellow jasmine

Yellow oleander

Yellow star thistle

Yerba

Yew

This is an extensive list of toxic plants to rabbits but should not be considered as a complete list. Some of the plants listed may have parts of the plant that are not poisonous such as the flowers but it would be safe to keep all parts of the plant out of reach of your rabbit. Rabbit owners should never feed their pets any type of fruit, vegetable, plant or any part of a plant unless they are certain it is safe. If you suspect your rabbit has consumed something poisonous, seek veterinarian care immediately.

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Pet-Friendly Gardens and Plants

Allowing Your Pets to Enjoy the Yard and Garden with You

Think that your garden is a paradise for your pet? Think again. Did you know that poisonous plants, ponds or pools, and pesticides are just a few of the dangers lurking within the confines of your seemingly safe garden area? If you're an animal lover and the proud owner of a dog or cat, chances are they're allowed to venture freely around you home and surrounding lawn. If you're also a fellow gardener, chances are you have a beautiful garden somewhere on your property. So if you are a loyal pet owner that just happens to love gardening, consider implementing a pet-friendly garden. This will allow your pet to enjoy being outdoors without the worry of possible dangers to them or your garden.

Pets have certain needs, as well as their own ideas, regarding their territory within the yard; and unfortunately, these things are oftentimes overlooked. Most of us, at least those who have children, do our best to keep our gardens safe for kids, but we unknowingly forget about our pets. In fact, there is probably more information floating around that tells how to keep them out of the garden rather than how to create a pet-friendly garden environment. Designing and planting a pet-friendly garden based on your pet's needs is an important factor to consider, especially if your pet is permitted to run free throughout the property. It is usually not too difficult to teach your dog to stay within certain boundaries. As dogs are more prone to digging for purposes of play, designate an area of the yard to accommodate this, especially for puppies. Keep all toys within this area and encourage children to play with them only within these boundaries. If your pet is particularly unruly, raised beds and/or fencing may be needed. About the only major problem associated with cats in the garden is their desire to use it as a litter box. This, too, can be fixed by keeping the soil in your pet-friendly garden moist. Cats prefer dry areas. Typically, the driest areas of the garden are close to the foundation of your home as concrete often takes moisture from the soil. Keeping this site moist with a layer of plastic and mulch should help alleviate any littering problems. Cats might appreciate a designated place for them as well. Create this spot away from the rest of the pet-friendly garden with plantings of their favorite grasses and catnip for chewing. You could also opt to create an outside litter area nearby as well.

Include various paths within your pet-friendly garden. For instance, if there are areas of the lawn that have been worn down by your pet from frequent traveling, you can incorporate paving elements or some form of mulch along this area, tying it in with the rest of the pet-friendly garden. Avoid bare areas within the garden; this will only invite your playful pets to dig. Choose pet-friendly plants that are not easily damaged by the wear and tear associated with pets. Groundcovers like creeping thyme, sweet woodruff, and periwinkle work well. Grasses are also tough-growing plants, and there are numerous ornamental types available, none of which pose any threats to pets if ingested. Cats are generally less apt to eat plants, other than grasses. They seem to be more choosy in what they will or will not put in their mouths, unlike dogs. Dogs are curious by nature and are much more likely to chew on nearly anything.

There are many popular garden plants that are quite harmful, even deadly, to pets. In fact, commonly grown plants such as foxglove, lily-of-the-valley, yew, oleander, and kalanchoe contain cardio-toxins and can cause heart failure if ingested by pets. Other common garden plants, such as rhubarb and daylilies, are particularly dangerous to cats as they can lead to kidney failure. The autumn crocus can cause multiple reactions in both dogs and cats, including renal failure and liver damage. Even plantings of rhododendrons or azaleas can prove harmful to pets as they contain toxins causing gastrointestinal problems. Other potential hazards to your pets include mushrooms and cocoa hulls. You should avoid placing any of these within your pet-friendly garden.

There are, however, many pet-friendly plants to choose from that are considered quite safe for placing into a pet-friendly garden. These include marigold, snapdragon, pampas grass, bamboo, cornflower, crape myrtle, and many others. Check the Animal Poison Control Center for a more detailed list. When you are choosing plants for a pet-friendly garden, you should try to avoid conifers, like pine or cedar, especially if your pet is a dog. These can quickly turn brown if urinated on. An alternative to this would be tough evergreens, such as magnolia.

One of the best ways to prevent your pet from damaging delicate plants in your pet-friendly garden is to place them in containers or raised beds. The use of hanging baskets, window boxes, and trellises may also be helpful in a pet-friendly garden. These can provide the pet-friendly garden with additional interest without the worry of becoming uprooted by pets. Implementing a few prickly plants into the pet-friendly garden around your most prized flowers may also help. Most pets do not appreciate the smell of vinegar or moth balls. These can be incorporated within the pet-friendly garden to act as a deterrent in specific areas you do not wish your pet to go. Orange peelings work well with cats; they do not like the smell of citrus. You can also incorporate natural animal-repelling plants such as citronella or scented geranium. For other, more pet-friendly areas of the garden, keep plantings close together. This helps prevent plants from being trampled on since pets would rather go around than through these plantings. It may be a wise choice to put attractive fencing around areas of the pet-friendly garden that will be eaten by you and others, such as vegetable and herb gardens. You wouldn't want to take a chance of having the family pet relieve itself there. Alternatively, you can grow these in containers as well.

Ponds and pools are another threat within gardens. Curious pets might fall in and if unable to get out, will drown. Try to avoid these features or at least add fencing around them if possible. Pesticides and herbicides are the most common type of poisoning in pets. The most dangerous types of pesticides include snail and slug bait, ant and roach traps, and mouse bait. Slug pellets are especially dangerous to cats since they find them to be quite tasty and will ingest the pellets if run across. If you have a problem with slugs or snails, use an alternative approach instead such as beer traps. If at all possible, try to avoid using any type of chemicals in the garden, especially the pet-friendly garden.

If you have pets and love to garden, implementing a pet-friendly environment is a good alternative to maintaining the best of both worlds.

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