How to Care for Your Christmas Cactus

There is nothing more beautiful than a Christmas cactus in full bloom. With proper care and a little bit of love, a Christmas cactus will grow larger, stronger and healthier bringing you joy for many, many years. I have had my cactus for fifteen years and when a sprig would accidentally get knocked off, I would replant it, but only after doing one step to prepare it for the soil. When it was healthy enough, I would give it away as a gift. You don't need a degree in botany to have a beautiful Christmas cactus, all you need are some directions and the desire to grow such a glorious plant.

What is A Christmas Cactus?
The Christmas cactus, also known as Schlumbergera and Zygocactus is a relatively small genus of cacti that grows on trees or rocks in the coastal mountains of Brazil. According to http://www.wikipedia.org there are six species of Christmas cacti and they grow in shady habitats with high humidity and are quite different from their desert dwelling cousins. The Christmas cactus has several other names such as; the Holiday cactus, the Easter cactus and the Thanksgiving cactus. When the Christmas cactus flowers, the flowers can be white, pink, yellow, orange, red and purple. The Christmas cactus blooms between Thanksgiving and Christmas in the northern hemisphere and between Easter and May in the southern hemisphere. Strangely, my cactus usually blooms at both Christmas time and Easter affectionately earning it the name the Chreaster cactus.

Caring For Your Christmas Cactus
Caring for and maintaining your Christmas cactus is relatively easy and by following some basic rules you will be able to enjoy your cactus for many, many years. When it comes to watering and sunlight, its best to;

• · Light- keep your plants in a sunny location indoors, but if move outside during the summer, keep it in a semi-shady location. Too much light can burn and damage the leaves.
• · Soil- well-drained soil is a must for a Christmas cactus. Use a commercially packaged mix for succulent plants.
• · Water- A Christmas cactus is a succulent plant and can store a reasonable amount of water in its leaves. Water thoroughly when the top half of the soil feels dry to the touch. The length of time between watering will vary depending on temperature, amount of light and humidity.
• · Re-potting- plants should be re-potted every two or three years or when the pot is filled with roots and the soil looks depleted.

Re-planting A Section That Has Broken Off
Don't throw that broken piece away, do what I do. Get a glass milk jug, tall glass or cup or any other suitable container and fill it just about to the top with cold tap water. Place the broken piece of the cactus in the container of water and place it on a windowsill where it can get some sunlight. If it's during the summertime, place it in an area where it gets a modest amount of sunlight. As the water level drops, keep refilling the container. Eventually you will see tiny roots sprouting from the bottom of the broken piece. When this happens, transplant it into a new pot of soil and follow the directions for proper care. Soon you will see it begin to grow larger and stronger.
A Christmas cactus is a beautiful and wonderful plant that will bring you years of stunning beauty when it blooms.

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6 High Yield Fruits and Vegetables to Grow on a Fence

If you want to grow some vegetables but don't think you have the space, why not look upwards instead? Vertical gardening lets you take advantage of fences, trellises and exterior walls to grow fruits and vegetables in tiny spaces.

Blackberries or raspberries

I grow my berry bushes along a chain link fence which does a great job of camouflaging the alley while keeping my family well supplied with fresh berries. A healthy blackberry bush will produce between 10-20 pounds of fruit a season, a single raspberry bush slightly less.

Grapes

Grapes are another family favorite at our house though do require full sun to grow. Grape vines can be trained to grown along a fence, over a pergola or on a trellis. I usually harvest about 15-20 clusters of grapes per plant.

Lemon cucumbers

I've only started growing this unusual vegetable a few years ago and love the compact size of the fruit which makes it ideal for growing along a porch rail or small trellis. Lemon cucumber plants are very prolific and easy to grow. Last year, our average yield was between 20-30 cucumbers per plant.

Pole Beans

Certain bean varieties are known as "pole" plants, meaning they can be trained to climb upon a fence or trellis for bountiful yields. Pole beans have 2-3 times the yield of bush varieties and have a much longer growing season. Average yield per plant is about 5-6 pounds.

Pickling cucumbers

Our family eats a lot of relish which is why pickling cucumbers are a staple in my garden too. Pickling cucumbers are much smaller than standard market cucumbers which means that they won't break the vine as they grow. Most pickle and relish recipes call for at least 4-6 pounds of pickles per recipe which is why you'll need to plant at least 8 plants.

Apples, peaches, plums, and cherries

While we don't think about growing fruit trees along a fence line, the old art of espalier training makes it possible to grow orchard fruits in tight, compact spaces along a fence or a wall. The yields are fantastic in relation to the space -- for instructions for espalier training fruit trees in your yard, check out the Mother Earth News article: How to espalier apple trees. Need more ideas? check this article called 4 Fruits You Can Easily Grow

A lack of yard space doesn't mean that you can't have a micro orchard or vegetable garden. Thanks to vining fruits, pole vegetables, and tree varieties that can be espalier trained, it is possible to grow food for your family in hardly any space at all.

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4 Fruits You Can Easily Grow

Strawberries
As well as tasting delicious, strawberries are reasonably simple to grow. One of the best things about them is how adaptable they are and also the lack of space that they require. Strawberries will actually grow in almost any soil type from light sand to heavy clay, though ideally they prefer moist and well drained soil. Just like most Floridians, strawberries love as much sun as possible, but they do need protection from the wind. Although easier to grow from a small plant it is possible to grow strawberries from seeds, though this obviously takes much longer and requires more effort. The roots are neither long nor wide so there is no need for deep soil when growing strawberries. This means that you can grow strawberries in anything from garden beds to window boxes and even hanging baskets. The hanging basket actually gives you protection from slugs and other bugs, but you may need netting to keep the birds away!

Raspberries
Raspberries are also relatively easy to grow, and if you mix the varieties in the correct way you can grow them from June all the way through to Autumn. Unlike strawberries however, raspberries need a lot of space in which to grow so aren't ideal for small fruit gardens. They grow best in deep soil which has good drainage. The pH of the soil should be between 5.6 and 6.2 and you can measure this yourself with a simple home soil tester kit. Raspberries need a lot of sun, but also need to be protected from the wind so you need to be careful where you position it.

Pineapples
Growing a pineapple is much simpler and more accessible than many people would imagine - though you do need a lot of space as the plants grow up to five feet in diameter and have spiny leave. The first step to growing your own is to buy one from your supermarket or wherever you can. Cut off the leafy top leaving about two inches of the fruit underneath. To plant you can just put the piece directly into the ground if you are lucky enough to live somewhere warm (or pot if you are using one, but remember they need space).

Place the pineapple in the hole, and cover with dirt, leaving the pineapple leaves exposed above ground. Once its covered by dirt water it, you don't need to repeat the watering too often if the plant is outdoors, but more frequently if you are attempting to grow indoors. The one thing to note with growing pineapples is that you need patience. You should notice growth after a year, but it could be two to three years before you start to see fruit.

Blueberries
The benefits of eating blueberries are well documented, and now you can grow your own supply of this "super food". Blueberries need a sunny location and the soil needs to be well drained with no weeds. You can plant straight into the ground provided that you dig over an area around two feet in diameter and about a foot deep. To really help the fruits grow, you can add an acidifier to the soil. Blueberries need a lot of space to grow and should be spaced eight to ten feet apart if growing in rows. Although they need to be left to grow for the first year, they will need regular pruning after this.

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How to Plant and Grow Crepe Myrtles

Take a drive through any Georgia town during summer and you'll think we have cornered the market on crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) bushes. These tall bushes with colorful crepe paper-looking blooms abound everywhere from highway medians to state parks to front lawns and courthouse lawns. Even though this unofficial Georgia state bush can be found growing everywhere, it still seems to be a mystery for many homeowners. As a Master Gardener, it's the one plant I'm asked most frequently about regarding planting and care. Take the mystery out of caring for this blooming bush with these tips for planting and growing crepe myrtle.

Bush Choice

Crepe (also spelled crape) myrtles come in a many different heights, ranging from a dwarf variety that reaches a mature height of 3 feet to the standard bush that can reach a mature height of 30 feet.

Bloom colors are dark pink (almost red) or light pink, dark purple or lavender and white.

Make a bush choice based on the growing space available, since even the tallest growing varieties can be kept pruned to fit within a space. Crepe myrtles also put on a brilliant display of fall foliage colors that ranges from orange to red and the bushes have interesting bark year 'round.

Planting

Crepe myrtles are drought-tolerant bushes and grow best inn full sun and well-draining soil. After selecting the planting site, dig a hole that is twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball. Place compost in the bottom half of the hole, then place root ball in the center of the planting hole. Add soil under the root ball if needed to raise up the top of the root ball evenly with the surrounding soil. Back-fill the planting hole, water bush well and firm soil with hands. 

Add 3 inches of organic mulch (pine bark, straw, etc.) around the base of the bush, being careful to keep the mulch from touching the trunk of the crepe myrtle.

Pruning

This is the biggest mystery surrounding this southern flowering bush - How to prune it without committing 'crepe murder', which is essentially sawing the top of the bush off to a one-layer, overall height. 

Prune in late winter when bush is dormant and start in the center of the bush and prune away all twiggy growth. Next, prune away side branches that have developed on the main trunk up to about 4 feet in height. If you want to take some of the height of the bush, prune the branch tips in a semi-circle, starting low on the outside branches, working up and over, then heading back down on the other side.

Feed and Water

One application of any tree or balanced lawn fertilize a year is sufficient for a crepe myrtle. Water only during times of extreme drought.

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Time to Crown Your Roses

Spring has sprung midwinter this year, but you can expect that kind of thing in Grants Pass, where our spring is "indeterminate." It comes and goes anytime from February to May, when it slips in and out of summer for a couple months. An extra-cold December gave way to a warm January, and shifted winter and spring two weeks to a month early.

This year, spring started by the end of January, when my roses started breaking bud. I've been crowning roses for three weeks. Having crowned most of these roses last spring, the work went pretty quickly, even where they grew full-sized canes. I didn't have to dig much.

To "crown" a rose is to cut it to the crown, the hard knot of wood above the roots, rather than cutting it off knee-high. This removes all black spot fungus on the plant, which infects canes as well as leaves. It also looks more natural and thus beautiful than growing from cut canes, which produce beautiful flowers on an ugly bush, breaking out in black spot (yellow spots that turn black and eventually kill the leaf) on the new growth before the flowers even bloom. Crowning roses in spring can keep black spot at bay until late fall, if it shows up at all.

Black spot is endemic in Grants Pass because there are so many roses and our mild wet winters never make them go fully dormant. The leaves and stems grow the fungus all year. Outside of town, it is possible to eliminate it with hygiene; in town, it is in the air everywhere.

I used to cut rose canes to the ground or the crown, whichever was higher. But underground cane bases produce small, spindly growth. It pays to dig down around the crown and cut every cane to the hard ball of the crown. It is easier when it was done the year before.

A rose can be crowned at any time during the year; it's hard to kill one by cutting it. Cutting when it's half-way to blooming is apt to shrink the plant, which is good when the rose wants to be 6 feet tall and you would prefer 3. Cutting in late fall to mid-winter may delay regrowth in the spring by several months, as the plant feels only soil temps, which lag far behind air temperatures.

I am most happy with my Betty Boop rose in my front yard, a semi-double which, after crowning last spring, was covered with blooms all summer and fall right up to our December deep freeze, which froze all the buds on every rose in town. Even now, it has very little black spot, but it is time to crown it for the third time. It was huge at one time, as you can see by the stump, but ugly with black spot. Now it's consistently pretty and compact.

Not every rose should be completely crowned every year, only regular tea roses. Climbers grow their flowers on two-year-old wood, so only the bloomed-out canes should be cut out, and the new canes be allowed to bloom. Rosa rugosa has heavily textured leaves that don't get black spot, and should be crowned only when it gets too big for its space.

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How to Grow Cactus in a Refinished Wooden Plant Box

Planting and Caring for Cactus House Plants

Plants are beautiful. Even Cactus. There are many varieties of Cactus. The word Cactus is a classification for the type of plant. The word cactus is used like the word tree. We all know there are many, many types of trees growing on our good green Earth. Same goes for cactuses. There are many types. Some grow big some stay small. All are unique. They come in different shapes, sizes, and colors. Small cactuses make a great addition to any houseplant collection. They can be grown indoors as houseplants. This article will show you how to create a cactus collection in a wooden planter box.

The first thing you will need is a wooden planter box. Make sure it has been refinished before you use it. The wood should be sanded, stained and coated with polyurethane so that it does not absorb moisture and rot. You planted needs not be large. It also does not have to be deep.

Go to a greenhouse or store that sells small cactus plants. My local grocery store sells them. They are easy to find and are not expensive. Choose 6 to 8 small cactus plants. They will come in little flowers pots. If the little flower pots are plastic and not decorative consider buying small ceramic or clay pots to replace them. Your cactus plants will not be planted in the box they will be arranged in the box. They will remain in their little flower pots so you want to be sure that they are pretty.

Add a sandy soil to your new little clay or ceramic flower pots. Use a spoon to make a hole in the center of each filled pot. Gently place your fingers and hand around the base of the planted cactus. Tip it upside down and shake gently to loosen the plant. Remove the small cactus and carefully remove most of the old soil from it. Plant it in the hole you made in the fresh soil then pat and press the plant into place. Pack the dirt down around it's base. Repeat this process for each cactus plant.

When you have finished replanting use a damp cloth to wipe any dirt off of the outside and rim of each flower pot. Place each little flower pot in the wooden planter box. Give the plants a little bit of time to adjust. Wait 24 hours before you water them. When you do water do not add the water directly to soil. Mist the soil and mist the cactus itself. Too much moisture will kill a cactus. They live in hot dry climates and in nature they receive very little moisture. Cactuses do not need to be water daily. A misting every other or every few days is sufficient.

 

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Fennel - the Plant and Its Uses

Shortly after we were married, my husband brought home a clump of green woody-textured stems with roots and planted it in the front yard close to the house. Our yard is mostly red clay so plants must be hearty to grow well here. The stems soon produced wispy greenery and in the springtime there were tiny yellow flowers that lay in a single layer across the top of each branch.

The plant had an aroma similar to licorice and as it grew and the foliage filled out it became a very pretty addition to the yard. Each year it has made a larger and thicker circle of canes. We have enjoyed its beauty and the unusual smell that comes from the stem when it is broken off. We wondered for some time what kind of plant it might be but no one we asked seemed to know. Finally we searched the internet for plants matching a sketchy description and after reading several articles and looking at quite a few pictures, we found that our plant matched the description and image of an herb called fennel.

We also did some research on what fennel can be used for and found some interesting facts. The entire fennel plant is edible, even the bulb which is the most nutritious part. Fennel seeds can be gathered after the blooms shed and are good for seasoning fish, sausage, and poultry. The stalks and leaves are used as ingredients for many Italian dishes. For a different and healthy salad idea cut up new, tender fennel stems and leaves and serve Italian style with olive oil, salt and lemon wedges as suggested in "A Pinch Of...." . 




Fennel also has medicinal value and has been successfully used to relieve discomforts in the intestines and stomach such as gas and cramps. Fennel contains potassium and fiber and is beneficial in reducing high blood pressure and high cholesterol. The fennel bulb produces Vitamin C which aids the immune system and is naturally antibacterial. Essential oil of fennel is gleaned from the plant's bulb and can be diluted and used as an ointment for skin irritations. It can be taken as a tea or as an herbal capsule which can be purchased from health food stores.

For a unique addition to your herb garden look for fennel seeds or sprouts at your local garden center or feed and grain store. As it grows and spreads you can share with your friends and family who enjoy gardening.

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10 Drought-Tolerant Plants for Hot Climates and Sandy Soil

Hot climates and sandy soil seem to go together. Where you have one, you have the other, like in my neck of the south Georgia landscape, and that makes it doubly challenging for gardeners. Not impossible, but certainly challenging, and a true gardener will always rise to the challenge and find something they can grow in any environment in which they decide to put roots down. If home is located where the hot sun is above your head and sand under your feet, try planting and growing some of these drought-tolerant plants for hot climates and sandy soil.

Beach Sunflower
Often seen growing on sand dunes, the beach sunflower (Helianthus debilis) can grow upright or lay down like a ground cover, reaching a mature height of about three feet. It's self-seeding and requires no care.

Beautyberry

The beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) grows best in sandy soil and light shade. The plant will reach a mature height of six feet, bearing clusters of purple berries from late summer through fall.

Firebush

This tall growing bush (reaches 8-10 feet) bears nectar-rich red blooms all summer when planted in full sun and sandy soil. Firebush (Hamelia patens) is a favorite flower of hummingbirds and butterflies and the red-blooming bush will keep a steady stream of winged visitors flying around all summer.

Goldenaster

Looks similar to a yellow daisy, the goldenaster (Pityopsis graminifolia) loves to be planted in sandy soil and full sun. Goldenaster produces long-lasting yellow blooms on two-feet tall plants.

Longleaf Pine

Not a blooming plant, but an evergreen tree that produces long, graceful pine needles. Longleaf pine (Pinus palustris) loves full sun and lots of moisture.

Pink Muhly

Pink muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris) is a tall blooming grass that reaches a mature height of four feet and bears showy pink blooms in the fall. Pink muhly prefers full sun, but will grow well in light shade.

Powderpuff

Low-growing ground cover that produces showy, pink powderpuff-like blooms. Powderpuff (Mimosa strigillosa) loves full sun, spreads quickly and reaches a mature height of three inches.

Silver Saw Palmetto

Tall and wide growing, the silver saw palmetto (Serenoa repens) reaches a mature size of 7 feet tall and equally as wide. Silver saw palmettos can take full sun or partial shade and are hardy in some colder climates.

Spiderwort

Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana) loves sandy soil, but grows equally well in sun or shade. Spiderwort has a long blooming season and comes in a variety of bloom colors.

Trumpet Honeysuckle

This twining vine loves the sun and sand. Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) produces clusters of red, tube-shaped flowers in the spring that attract hummingbirds.

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4 Steps to Preserve Plants for Your Office

Putting plant life inside your work environment is a great way to add some natural decor. For many, the indoor shrubbery can significantly improve mood and ambience -- even morale, especially in office buildings where plant life offers a welcome shade of green as contrast to white slabs of concrete, dry walls, "zombie lighting," and stale carpets.

However, real plants and trees come with a (recurring) cost. In downtown settings, interior landscaping services can cost building administrators tens of thousands of dollars in annual contracts for both plant supply and maintenance. According to the Bureau of Labor and Statistics, the median pay for general maintenance and repair workers is nearly $17 an hour, and these workers typically have to water the plants and remove dead leaves every day.

Preserved plants can reduce or eliminate the need for such maintenance, while improving your workplace (and home office) design.

Here's how to preserve natural plants.

1. Get the following materials: sealer, big pot, drill, contact cement, and spray insulation. If you need ideas on types of green used indoors, here are examples of silk trees and other artificial plants.

Clean and seal the tree limbs and scrape off the loose bark. Next, spray them with a sealer.

2. Add weight to your pot to make it sturdy; this prevents your artificial tree from being top-heavy. It also mitigates the risk of having the tree falling over a passerby or desk. Use materials such as soil mixed with rocks.

3. Spray the pot and insert the limbs. Before you put the limbs in the pot, cover the inside with spray insulation. The spray will hold the limbs in place once it hardens.

Next, drill holes in the stalks where you can place the branches. The holes should be in a downward angle so that the branches can steadily arch upwards.

Then, place some contact cement at the end of the branches so they will stick to the drilled hole. Take caution: The glue will dry in a few seconds!

4. Finally, cover the insulation to make your newly-preserved tree look more natural. You can use moss, soil, or even (green-colored) egg shells. You have plenty of flexibility here.

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Do Desert Plants Have Fewer Stomata?

Open your mouth and take a deep breath, then breathe back out onto your hand. Does your hand feel moist? Plants have more stomata only if they can afford to lose that much moisture , fewer stomata if they must conserve water . Are you new to botany? In case you're a bit green, let's take a step back.

What are stomata, exactly?

Stomata are like the mouths of plants, except that they can have many hundreds of "mouths" per leaf where we only have one for our whole body. Recall that:

• Plants use carbon dioxide (CO2) that they "breathe in" to make sugars (plant food).
  
• A byproduct of that process is oxygen , which the plants " breathe out".
  
• This "breathing" is actually passive flowing of gasses in and out of the stomata.
  
• There is water in the air, but more water in the plant's leaves.
  
• Every time a stoma opens, water vapor is one of the gasses that leaves... the leaves.

So we now know that stomata are critical to the plant as they get essential molecules from the air into the leaf parts that make plant food. Stomata open their lips (guard cells) when the plant's chemical process es signal that more CO2 is needed. You'll recognize the name of the mechanism by which plants make sugar: Photosynthesis. As you likely know, photosynthesis requires sunlight. Adding that piece to the puzzle, we start to see why desert plants must really be special. If plants make food when it's light out, in the heat of the day, that is when they'll be opening their stomata for more CO2 - gulping in air and spitting out water. But "the heat of the day" in the desert is so hot and dry!
How do plants survive in the desert?

Although plants get plenty of sun light in the desert for photosynthesis, it's actually too much. Extra heat and low humidity mean that water will pass out of the plant that much faster. Also, there isn't as much water in the soil, so the plant cannot reliably replace water that is lost. Because of this, you'll find that anyone who' s anyone in the community of desert plants will share many of the following traits:

• Waxy coating to help keep water in the plant.
  
• Thick, small leaves that reduce the amount of surface area exposed to heat.
  
• Large pockets for absorbing water that can then be saved for a rainy… eh, a not-so-rainy day.
  
• Thorns to keep animals from eating the plant to drink that stored water.
  
• Limiting certain critical phases (growth, reproduction) to short periods of the year.
  

But my favorite desert plant adaptation by far is that of hording. Many desert plants use an alternative photosynthesis mechanism called "CAM" photosynthesis (Crassulacean Acid Metabolism). Photosynthesis can only occur when tons of CO2 flood the inside of the plants' cells. Rather than leave the stomata gaping during the day to provide that CO2 , CAM plants suck in CO2 at night and stockpile it until day. At that time, it is released in saturating bursts to the right plant parts when the sun is up, without the stomata having to open in the heat.

So, do desert plants have fewer stomata?

Yes. Although many of these other adaptations, including CAM photosynthesis, make the stomata less burdensome, desert plants still have fewer per square inch. One addition, more subtle desert plant adaptation is that many desert plants grow much slower and are just… well… lazy. To increase food production by increasing stomata, at the risk of losing more water than can be regained, is not energetically worth it. The plant would not live to reproduce and, thus, nature has made its selection.

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How to Dig, Divide and Separate Flowering Bulbs to Multiply the Beauty

Gardeners can allow their flowering bulbs to supply them with more flowers, for free, by diving them at the right time of year. However, not all flowering bulbs requires the same care or are divided and replanted at the same time of year, so for multiplying success, a gardener must understand a bulb's needs. These needs include the importance of diving, when to divide and how to divide for each type of spring, summer or fall blooming bulbs.

Three Basic Types of Bulbs
Bulb flowers include true bulbs that are pear shaped, like tulips, corms and scales. Corms are bulb-like, but are more swollen and produce off sets, known as cormels . Crocuses are an example of corms. Scales are bulbs with layered scales, like lilies. Division is simply the process by which these different types of bulbs' immature growth s , known a bulblets , are separated from the parent plant and replanted in the garden to produce more flowers.

Why Divide Bulbs
Bulbs are divided to provide free bulbs for multiplying flowers, but division also allows existing bulbs to grow stronger. This is because bulbs expend energy supporting bulblets , and when these immature growths are removed, the parent bulb has more energy to bloom, creating bigger, healthier flowers.

How to Divide Bulbs
To divide bulbs, the immature growths are carefully removed from the parent plant. Once the bulblets are removed, the gardener can replant them or store them for planting later. Gardeners can prevent small bulblets from blooming the first year by nipping off flowers and allowing the energy to go toward growing a larger bulb and not blooms. Larger bulbs create a bigger display the following year. Division and replanting techniques depends on the type of flower bulb.

• Tulips are divided in late spring, once foliage has died back. Dig up the bulbs and pull the small bulblets from the parent bulb. Hybrid tulips are not generally suitable for division.
  
• Lilies are divided in late summer after foliage has almost completely died back. Generally, lilies require digging and dividing every few years when flowers appear crowded. Lilies are scales, so peel away the outer scaly layers.
  
• Daffodils are divided in late spring every few years when the gardener notices the number and size of blooms decreasing.
  
• Crocuses are divided in spring after foliage has begun to die back. Crocuses are corms, which can be difficult to divide, so separate foliage clumps instead.
  
• Gladiolus are lifted in early fall, once foliage has died back and stored until spring. Separate and plant gladiolus bulbs right before planting in spring.
  

Seasonal Tips

• Divide summer-flowering bulbs in spring and plant bulblets in the garden.
  
• Divide spring-flowering bulbs after foliage yellows and dies back in summer.
  
• Dig and store tender bulbs in fall, leaving them in a cool, dark place during winter.
  
• Tender corms should be dug in fall and stored until replanting in spring.
  

Other Tips

Root and stem rot are two of the most common causes of bulb failure. Gardeners can avoid this by planting bulbs in a well-drained location and store bulbs in a moist, not soggy, environment. Gardeners can dust bulbs with a fungicide to decrease the risk of fungal disease.

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Tips for Success When Propagating Plants From Softwood Cuttings

Propagating plants from softwood cuttings in an effective and easy way to create more of a gardener's favorite plants. Before getting started, however, there are some tips gardeners need to know concerning when and how to take these cuttings as well how to properly care for them so that they take root and mature.

What Are Softwood Cuttings Softwood cuttings are taken from new plant growth of established plants. Softwood cuttings are flexible, unlike hardwood, and they can be taken from perennials and certain types of trees and shrubs. Deciduous trees and shrubs are generally best suited for softwood cuttings. These cuttings are easy to take, more reliable and generally take root faster than other types of cuttings.

Take Softwood Cuttings in Spring
Gardeners take cuttings in spring when the new plant growth on an established plant is at its peak; however, gardeners can also take softwood cuttings later in the growing season from plants that continue to produce new growth. Perennials that thrive in mild climates are best suited for summer or early fall softwood cuttings.

Tips for Taking Good Cuttings
Gardeners should follow these tips for taking a healthy softwood cutting.

• Take cuttings from the soft, flexible tip growth on new plant shoots. Before choosing a cutting site, look for a healthy stems and foliage and avoid any stems that appear weak, leggy or damaged. If a blooming stem in chosen, the gardener should remove any flower buds.
  
• Always use a sharp knife that has been properly sterilized to take cuttings. Cut below a leaf joint or node, taking a piece about six inches long.
  
• Place new cuttings in a lightweight soil and make sure they receive adequate humidity and moisture. Gardeners can use a cold frame to create and maintain a moist humid environment for the new cuttings.
  
• Cuttings that cannot be potted immediately should be wrapped in moist paper towels and placed in a sealed plastic bag.
  
• Cuttings generally develop roots within two to six weeks after planting, but this can vary by plant species. Gardeners can check for root development by tugging gently on the seedlings, and if it moves easily, allow the plant to remain in the pot another week or two.
  

Other Tips
If a gardener does not have a cold frame to keep potted cuttings in, he or she can speed up rooting and increase chances of success by keeping cuttings indoors in an area where they receive plenty of sunlight. Cuttings can be moved outside in a protected area after they have developed a strong root system. Tug on them to check for root development.
After potting softwood cuttings, watch for wilting and keep the soil moist but not soggy. Gardeners can spray cuttings with water to keep them moist. Because softwood cuttings require a moist, humid environment , they are susceptible to damping off and fungal diseases. To help prevent this, gardeners can water the cuttings using a fungicide solution. Adding bone meal, potassium sulfate or lime to the soil helps to provide essential nutrients and ensure healthy growth.

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Repotting Plants Ensure Their Long-term Health

Potted plants give a gardener the versatility to grow plants indoors and add color to patios and balconies. While potted plants are easy to move into an area that provides the best temperature and light conditions, they require proper care, just like plants growing in the ground, and grow best when repotted as necessary.

Why Plants Require Repottin
Plants need repotting when they have outgrown their pot or when the soil needs refreshed. Because the size of the pot limits the root growth for potted plants, it affects the plant's health if the plant becomes root-bound. While some plants like to be somewhat root-bound, others lose vigor and do not bloom when roots are crowded and unable to grow. This is true of many types of container plants, including perennials, bulbs, trees, shrubs and water plants.

When to Repot Plants
Plants that have tangled, cramped roots exhibit certain symptoms, such as stunted growth or an increased need for water, that alert the gardener to the need for a bigger pot. An older plant growing in a large pot needs repotting when it shows signs of growing poorly. If the size of the pot is not the problem, the plant may just need the roots trimmed or the soil refreshed. The time to repot plants is when doing do will not cause a minimal amount of stress. This is either prior to new growth in spring, after the flower has entered a dormant period, or once the plant has is not actively growing and is done blooming.

• Repot deciduous plants after the leaves have dropped.
  
• Repot evergreen plants in late fall to early spring
  
• Repot flowering plants a season or two before flowering, or after blooms fade.
  

How to Repot Plants
There are a few steps required to safely repot plants:

• Tilt the container to remove the plant carefully. If the plant and soil does not slide out easily, slide a knife along the inside to loosen the roots.
  
• Tight roots need to be eased apart gently, removing soil as they are separated. Remove about one-third of any fibrous roots.
  
• Choose a larger container to repot the plant, about two to three times wider than the current pot for immature plants. For mature plants, the same size pot, but add fresh soil.
  
• If using clay pots, soak the pots overnight to avoid plant stress.
  
• Add sterile soil mix to the new pot and position the plant in the pot before filling the pot will soil. Water well after repotting.
  

Alternative to Repotting
Instead of completely removing mature plants to refresh the soil, gardeners can remove the top 2 to 4 inches of the soil in the pot each year and replace it with fresh soil mix. When doing so, avoid damaging the plants tender root system and any feeder roots that grow near the top of the soil. While this works for mature plants, immature plants often need a larger pot, so this method is not meant for younger potted plants.

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Tips for Treating Black Spot on Roses

Roses are susceptible to three major diseases, and black spot is one of them. Fortunately for rose growers, it is also one of the easiest rose diseases to treat. Black spot is a fungal disease that most often appears during humid, rainy conditions and causes black patches on stems and leaves of rose plants.

Recognizing Black Spot
During humid, rainy conditions, gardeners should check roses one a week for this disease. The first sign of black spot on roses is small pinhead-sized spots on plant leaves. The spots gradually grow larger and becomes surrounded by a halo of yellow dying leaf tissue. As the disease progresses, rose leaves turn yellow and drop. The good news is, treatments for black spot generally work even in advanced stages of the disease.

Black spot spreads by fungal spores that travel through the air and on surfaces that have come into with infect leaves, such as gardening tools. Fungal spores can also spread by water spray and dead leaves that have fallen and landed on the soil under the plant. Black spot fungal spores are able to survive in the soil during winter.

Treating Black Spot
Treatment for black spot is an ongoing process that includes early prevention, prompt treatment and regular treatments to prevent recurring infections. Early prevention includes monitoring roses as soon as new growth appears and spraying roses with a solution of one part lime to nine parts wettable sulfur during winter.

Ongoing treatment includes removing any infected rose leaves and disposing of them as soon as possible. Once black spot sets in and begins to progress, gardeners need to begin a regular weekly application of a suitable fungicide, such as Daconil or Benomyl .

Other Tips
Good watering practices can help reduce the risk of black spot. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses that are susceptible to the fungal disease. These hoses are placed around the plant's base to prevent water from splashing up onto plants.

When spraying roses with a fungicide, gardeners must follow label directions, as these will advise them on how to safely apply the product to the plants and which plants may be sensitive to the active ingredients in certain products.

If black spot becomes a recurrent problem on one or more of the rose bushes in the garden, cut the entire plant low to ground in the fall, removing any stems that have been affected or could be carriers for black spot fungal spores.

Healthy plants are better able to withstand black spot infections. To ensure healthy roses, buy healthy plants from a reputable nursery, position plants in the garden to ensure they receive adequate air circulation and water carefully near the plant roots and early in the day. Prune roses as needed to remove an dead or diseased limbs and immediately pick up and discard any leaves that have fallen off the plant onto the soil below. When pruning roses, always use sharp clean pruners, and if they come into contact with black spot fungus, wash them in a bleach solution.

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Why I Love Spider Plants

At my mother's house, there is a spider plant that is older than I am. Yes, it's been growing and flourishing for around 25 years, and it seems like there's no stopping it! As soon as I got a place of my own, the first thing I did was introduce spider plants into my own home. And here's why:

Spider Plants are Hardy
Take it from me, you can forget to water a spider plant for weeks, and it will forgive you! I have seen these plants recover from seemingly the brink of death.Even the most forgetful, negligent plant owner would be hard pressed to destroy one of these babies! As far as sunlight, my spider plants seem to do well with indirect sunlight. So even if you don't have a ton of natural light, these hardy plants can flourish with even a little light.

They're Fun to Share
When a spider plant gets large enough, it starts to produce little spider plant babies that are easily removed from the main plant and re-potted all by themselves. All you have to do is carefully remove the offshoot, making sure to keep the little roots intact. You can either keep it suspended in a cup of water for a week, or directly plant it in a small pot. It's fun to take the little babies and set them up in cute pots as a fun and inexpensive gift!

They Clean Your Air
According to an article on Mother Nature Network, spider plants help clean up toxins such as "benzene, formaldehyde, carbon monoxide and xylene" from the air in a house. It's amazing to think that a simple, inexpensive houseplant could do so much to improve the quality of your air, but I swear I can tell the difference in my own house! They're hard-working little plants that give far more than they get!

They're Beautiful
With those long, graceful, arching leaves that dangle oh-so-perfectly from a hanging basket, spider plants are unarguably gorgeous plants. Even the smaller ones have a certain softness and beauty to them. Spider plants come in all different hues of green, and some varieties have lovely striped patterns. Your house guests will always be impressed by a well-grown, healthy spider plant, and they certainly work to brighten up an office space.

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Of Flowers and Failures: Spring Gardening Tips for Beginners

I've never been a "successful" gardener, but I learn more through failure each year! Here are some spring gardening lessons from my mistakes!

Consider sunlight
I was fortunate to buy a house with a thriving backyard terrace. The plants are well-established and self-sufficient. My front yard, however, hosts an empty garden bed I am determined to fill. I turned the ground, added fresh soil, and sewed some seeds. The first few sprouts were thrilling, but withered quickly in the nearly-constant sunlight. I always thought sun was good for plants, but in the case of my fragile flowers, too much of a good thing was the end.

Cooking water This is a weird tip I've heard from a number of sources whenever I ask for any sage (or rosemary, or thyme) gardening advice. After steaming veggies, boiling potatoes, or cooking pasta, don't dump the water down the sink, let it cool completely, then use it to water your garden. The idea is that the nutrients seeped out during cooking will add additional potential to garden soils.

Start plants indoors
New England weather is unpredictable at best, and spiteful at worst. While I have learned to weather the weather, tiny plant sprouts are not so resilient. Give your plants a head-start by starting them indoors, and carefully transferring them outside when they are established. I have had the best luck with moving windowsill flowers. Repurposed egg cartons make fabulous starter-beds.

Veggies vs. flowers
If you are a novice gardener, or a hopeless garden-enthusiast like me, you should consider the differences between vegetables and flowers. True, there are perennial flowers, which should bloom every year, but that is only if your roots take, and you are able to fully-establish the plant. Vegetables, on the other hand, tend to grow faster, and are heartier, more forgiving plants. And they're food!

Rabbits like bulbs I planted some tulip bulbs, admiring their resilience, and hoping the flowers would root strongly, and return to bloom each year. After an unseasonable spring heat-wave, my flowers withered, and I learned… that we had rabbits-and rabbits eat flower bulbs! They even left the bulb scraps at my front door! To avoid garden nibbling, encircle bulb-plants with rough gravel, and set up feeders away from your garden.
One day, I will have a successful outdoor garden, but for now I'm still learning, and soaking up the sun with the flowers!

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How to Force Spring Blooming Branches Into Early Indoor Color

By late winter, gardeners are feeling antsy. We want to see something spring back to life in our landscape after a long, dormant winter, and waiting for mother nature to run her course is difficult. Speed up the spring blooming process by forcing branches from ornamental and fruiting shrubs and trees into early indoor color with these tips.

Cut Branches
Use sharp pruning shears to cut pencil-thick branches from your favorite spring blooming shrubs and trees. The cut branches should be between 12-24 inches for best results. I make this my spring pruning time so I can shape up my trees and shrubs and gather branches for indoor color at the same time. Forsythia, crabapple, wild plum, serviceberry, redbud, tulip tree and any fruit tree or rhododendron are good choices to use for forced spring blooming.

Bucket of Water
Get the cut ends of the branches in a bucket of water as soon as possible. Place bucket in a shower and allow tepid water to shower down on the branches for a few minutes. This will warm the branches and trick them into thinking they are feeling a spring rain shower, so the bloom buds will begin to swell.

Drip Dry and Cover
Leave the bucket of branches in the shower until the water has stopped dripping off the branches, but they're still wet. Cover the branches and bucket with a large plastic trash bag, then move the bucket to cool location that receives light, either via the sun or indoor lighting. The plastic bag will hold in the moisture and raise the humidity level so they branches will begin to show signs of life. Check the branches every three days, changing the water at that time too. Depending on the tree and/or shrub varieties chosen, the branches will take anywhere from three days to three weeks to bud.

Just Right
When the buds are just about to pop open, remove the branches from the bucket and place in a display container filled with water. Trim the branch bottom if needed to fit the container properly. Place container out of direct sunlight, away from exterior doors and heat sources. Change water daily to keep the forced spring blooming branches looking their best.

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Impressive Ways to Plant Hens and Chicks Indoors

Creative Ideas for Displaying Succulents

Hens and chicks are hardy succulents that thrive outdoors in zones four through eight. They are a phenomenal perennial ground cover, and they are ideal plants for containers, especially strawberry pots. They also make fantastic houseplants. Consider these creative ways to plant them indoors, and make them a part of your decorating scheme. They can be incorporated into many different planting schemes that will beautifully enhance your home.

Planting Recommendation

Cactus soil is ideal for succulents, but it is not required. For adequate drainage, fill the bottoms of the planters with gravel, and add a mixture of half sand and half nutrient-rich soil. Excess water will drain away from tender roots. Allow the soil to fully dry in between light applications of water. Display them in a location that receives full to partial sunlight. For best results, place them in a cooler location for three to four months to replicate the lower temperatures of the dormant season.

Grow Them in Pots That Contain Other Low-Moisture Houseplants

One of the most impressive ways to plant hens and chicks indoors is in a pot that contains other live growth. Keep in mind that both should have the same requirements. Since succulents store water in their foliage and do not require as much moisture as many other plants, select something drought-tolerant. A snake plant is an excellent choice to pair with hens and chicks. It will grow upward while continually developing new shoots. The lower growing succulents will spread and beautifully hide the soil.

Place Teacups Filled with Hens and Chicks on a Kitchen Windowsill

Hens and chicks are one of the most versatile outdoor plants that can be grown indoors. They require very little space, and they make wonderful windowsill plants. Instead of using small planters, use teacups to grow immature plants. As chicks sprout and develop, they can be clipped away and rooted elsewhere. The arrangement will look lovely, especially in a kitchen with quaint cottage style.

Plant Them in Lined Woven Baskets

Shallow woven baskets make wonderful planters for succulents, and they are ideal for indoor arrangements. Plant hens a chicks in a shallow basket lined with a clay planter or a plastic liner of the appropriate size. Add miniature ivy around the sides. It will look pretty hanging over the edges, especially on a pedestal or on the top tier of a plant stand.

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10 Spring Blooming Plants for a Woodland Garden

A woodland garden is one of the easiest and loveliest flower gardens of all to grow and quite popular in the southern landscape. The basic philosophy behind a woodland garden is if it grows on its own, leave it alone. But as a Master Gardener, I'm often asked how to prompt a little more color from a woodland garden while still keeping with a free-flowing, natural garden design. I suggest you plant some of these spring blooming plants that thrive in a woodland garden setting and shimmer under the dappled sunlight that streams through the still-bare tree limbs, and will add a splash of color.

* Azaleas (Rhododendron) come in a wide variety of shrub sizes and bloom colors, all of which thrive in the acidic soil naturally found in woodland gardens. Hardy in most growing zones.

* Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) produces 2- to 3-foot tall wands from which rows of tiny heart-shaped blooms hang. Bleeding heart is a self-seeder and usually goes dormant during the heat of summer. Hardy in zones 3-8.

* Daffodils (Narcissus) are the sunny yellow spring bloomers that populate many landscapes during early spring. Daffodils thrive in the dappled spring sunlight of a woodland garden and are hardy in most growing zones.

* Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) produces an unusual-looking spring bloom and red berries in the fall. The woodland plant will reach a mature height of 3 feet and is hardy in zones 4-9.

* Great White Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) produces single white blooms in the spring and will ever-so-slowly spread to create a pocket of spring color. Hardy in zones 4-9.

* Rue anemone (Anemonella thalictroides) is a low-growing ground cover that spreads quickly and produces a multitude of white spring blooms, Hardy in zones 3-8.

* Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum) is another spreading ground cover that produces white blooms in the spring. Hardy in zones 4-8.

* Virginia Bluebell (Mertensia virginica) produces the coveted shade of blue blooms on top of plants that reach a mature height of 2 feet. Hardy in zones 3-8, Virginia bluebells usually go dormant during mid-summer.

* Hostas (Hosta x. tardiana) are large-leafed mounding plants that will send up 3-foot tall spikes of tiny purple flowers in late spring. Hardy in zone 4-9.

* Hellebores (Helleborus) are evergreen plants that will produce green or greenish-purple blooms in spring. Hardy in zones 3-9.

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Can I Grow Moringa in Vermiculite

Moringa (Moringa oleifera ) grows well in warm regions. This tropical and subtropical, semi-deciduous tree is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10 and flowers and fruits freely. The tree is slender, grows about 25 feet tall with feathery foliage and drooping branches, and it often is used as an ornamental specimen. Moringa tree leaves and roots are edible, and the root is often used as a substitute for horseradish. It is propagated by seeds, cuttings and air layering. Moringa does not grow well in heavy soil, claylike soil or vermiculite . Moringa roots rot in soggy soil.

Vermiculite and Its Uses

Vermiculite is a soilless mix that can be added to a growing medium to improve drainage. When used for horticultural purposes, it is a clean, odorless, non-toxic and sterile natural mineral. It does not rot, deteriorate or mold. Vermiculite is often mixed with composted pine bark or peat to promote faster root growth and to help anchor developing roots. Although vermiculite increases water and fertilizer retention of potting mixes, it is not well-suited for a Moringa tree, which does not grow well in wet soil.

Soil for Moringa

The Moringa tree needs a somewhat moisture-retentive growing medium that is not heavy. The tree will grow in poor soil, sandy soil and even depleted soil but does not tolerate wet roots. For that reason, loosen heavy soil by adding perlite, sand, peat moss or coconut coir. Amending the soil in this way allows the tree's roots to penetrate deeply in the soil and the soil to drain well.

Moringa's Taproots

Moringa tree has a single taproot that grows straight downward, like a carrot. The tree also develops small feeder roots , but does not develop branching roots. Plant a Moringa tree where its root has room to grow straight downward. If planting the tree in a container, use the deepest container you can find to allow plenty of room for the taproot.

Moringa Seed

Moringa seeds can be started in small pots with a loose, organic potting mix as the growing medium. Place the seeds about 1 inch deep in the soil, and cover them loosely with the soil; don't compact the soil. Water the pots' growing medium, and place the pots in a warm place with plenty of sunlight. The seeds sprout in about two weeks when their soil temperature is 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Water the soil daily to every other day, keeping it moist. After the trees reach 8 inches tall, transplant them into the ground or into larger pots.

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