6 High Yield Fruits and Vegetables to Grow on a Fence

If you want to grow some vegetables but don't think you have the space, why not look upwards instead? Vertical gardening lets you take advantage of fences, trellises and exterior walls to grow fruits and vegetables in tiny spaces.

Blackberries or raspberries

I grow my berry bushes along a chain link fence which does a great job of camouflaging the alley while keeping my family well supplied with fresh berries. A healthy blackberry bush will produce between 10-20 pounds of fruit a season, a single raspberry bush slightly less.

Grapes

Grapes are another family favorite at our house though do require full sun to grow. Grape vines can be trained to grown along a fence, over a pergola or on a trellis. I usually harvest about 15-20 clusters of grapes per plant.

Lemon cucumbers

I've only started growing this unusual vegetable a few years ago and love the compact size of the fruit which makes it ideal for growing along a porch rail or small trellis. Lemon cucumber plants are very prolific and easy to grow. Last year, our average yield was between 20-30 cucumbers per plant.

Pole Beans

Certain bean varieties are known as "pole" plants, meaning they can be trained to climb upon a fence or trellis for bountiful yields. Pole beans have 2-3 times the yield of bush varieties and have a much longer growing season. Average yield per plant is about 5-6 pounds.

Pickling cucumbers

Our family eats a lot of relish which is why pickling cucumbers are a staple in my garden too. Pickling cucumbers are much smaller than standard market cucumbers which means that they won't break the vine as they grow. Most pickle and relish recipes call for at least 4-6 pounds of pickles per recipe which is why you'll need to plant at least 8 plants.

Apples, peaches, plums, and cherries

While we don't think about growing fruit trees along a fence line, the old art of espalier training makes it possible to grow orchard fruits in tight, compact spaces along a fence or a wall. The yields are fantastic in relation to the space -- for instructions for espalier training fruit trees in your yard, check out the Mother Earth News article: How to espalier apple trees. Need more ideas? check this article called 4 Fruits You Can Easily Grow

A lack of yard space doesn't mean that you can't have a micro orchard or vegetable garden. Thanks to vining fruits, pole vegetables, and tree varieties that can be espalier trained, it is possible to grow food for your family in hardly any space at all.

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Gardening the Back to Eden Film Method Saves Time and Money

Hey Gardeners, if you've already heard about the Back to Eden gardening film than you're a step ahead of the game. I fell upon this film while sifting through YouTube videos on gardening. You can watch the Back to Eden Film online for free. It's a documentary about how you can layer any yard, anywhere in the world without tilling the soil, using wood chips, and have the benefits of using less water.

Some people don't want to do the research or don't pay attention to detail which have created critics of the method. This is not just throwing down wood chips and you're done, however it is simple. If you look at the section on How to Grow Your Own Organic Garden and throughout the movie it tells you that your first layer is newspaper (reduce weeds), compost (the free compost from our Orange Country landfill is great stuff), wood chips of various sizes and topped with chicken manure (or in my case we have a rabbit) - makes for a great garden and keeps the moisture in the ground longer, while also reducing the amount of weeds. However, make sure you plant your seeds or transplants in the soil/compost section, not in the wood chips as the roots won't have a solid enough foundation.

I realized I was sort of doing this method by accident. Since I don't have the 'back' to use a rototiller on my community garden plots I have been layering by default. One of the great things about being in a garden community (online or in person) I learned about free compost from our local landfill which has saved me a ton of money from buying soil in bags. In addition, I've been layering with the free hay bales that we get from our annual Fall Festival. The hay breaks down over time and I use them to surround the plots to reduce weeds. In addition, I was using vegetable scraps and rabbit manure for composting but now I give the vegetable scraps to the worms. I have a worm composting bin which makes a great circle-of-life where what I grow in the garden is what we eat, as well as the bunny eats and his 'stuff' goes back to the garden as compost as well as the scraps are fed to the worms and their 'stuff' goes back as worm casting compost. It turns out I've been doing this layering method for years without knowing that there was a movement called the Back to Eden Film method.

After watching this documentary on the Back to Eden gardening I finally realized why my garden did so well even though I was physically unable to manage my plots for nearly three months. I thought I was surely going to return to a lot of back breaking, ground digging work but to my surprise my garden had very little weeds. In addition, I could only depend on the rain that we had for water, which has been very low in our area for several years, yet my vegetables grew very well. I had covered the compost with hay, except where the plants were growing and the weeds were nearly extinct except for some of the areas that were not covered. However, even those parts which had compost that looks like dirt, as the wood chips are well decomposed at the landfill, only had a few weeds. You can follow this link to Back to eden film main site

I'm going to continue the Back to Garden Film method of gardening in my home containers on my patio and have already created some self-watering containers from buckets I got at the Dollar Tree store since they don't get rained on. I hope you'll try this method out and reduce your use of water and maintenance on your home garden. Let me know what you think or if you've used this method in the comments below.

Monica Lehua is a native of Hawaii and now resides in Orlando, Fla. She's taken some of the methods of gardening that she's learned from her family of agriculturalists: farmers and simple home gardeners and tweaked it to fit the central Florida climate. Need more information about muclhing? there are other articles about mulching your garden!

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10 Clever Ways to Cut Your Vegetable Gardening Costs

Unique Ways to Use What You Already Have to Save Hundreds of Dollars in the Garden

I grow my own vegetables for a lot of reasons -- for our family's health, the exercise, and of course to save money. Saving money begins with not spending it which is why I'm always looking for clever ways to trim my vegetable garden costs. One way I save money is by making my own compost instead of buying it from a garden center. Here are 10 other tips for lowering gardening costs by using what you have instead of buying new.

Make my own hot house caps

Hot house caps warm the soil for seed germination and protect tender seedlings from the frost. I make my own from plastic gallon milk jugs which I've been collecting all winter. These can be turned into hot house caps simply by cutting the bottom off and placing directly over your seedlings.

Use egg cartons in lieu of peat pots

Egg cartons are perfectly sized for starting seeds and will break down in the soil once the seedlings are ready to go into the ground.

Save seeds

Whatever vegetable seeds I don't use this year, I'll save for next. Most commercial seeds are good for at least 3 years with some varieties lasting as long as five years.

Recycle potting mix

Used potting mix might be drained of nutrition but still has value. I recycle my used potting mix (what's left in the pots after the plant has died) by pouring it into the compost bins which helps make the finished compost light and fluffy.

Animal bedding to improve soil texture

My soil is a bit on the clayey side and needs amenities like peat moss to improve the texture. Peat moss is expensive however which is why I use the soiled straw from the hen house and the soiled bedding pellets from our rabbit hutch to improve the soil instead.

Recycle trays and pots

I wash out and reuse the black pots and trays that plants come in which saves money too. Most of my pots and trays are ones I've salvaged from my neighbors recycling bins.

Make watering globes from wine bottles

For watering container gardens or newly transplanted vegetables, I turn old wine bottles into watering globes by simply filling them up with water and inverting them in the soil.

Use broken pots

Instead of throwing away my broken terra cotta pots, I partially bury them in the ground and use them to contain my herbs plants.

Fashion support stakes from water shoots

Water shoots are those fast growing branches found on apple trees that grow straight up wherever the tree has been pruned. I've discovered that water shoots not only make tasty treats for the rabbits, they can be dried and used as plant stakes for peppers, bush peas, and other small vegetable plants that need support.

Use offbeat containers for growing lettuce

I have a terrible problem with snails and slugs in my yard which is why I can't grow lettuce in traditional beds. What I do instead is plant lettuce seeds in odd beat containers such as old watering cans and leaky galvanized buckets which are placed on elevated platforms to keep them out of the reach of snails.

When the goal is to save money, it's amazing what can be done with ordinary items found around the house. Using what you already have is the most basic way of trimming costs and an easy way to trim hundreds of dollars from your gardening budget. need more information? we have an article called Organic Vegetable Gardening the Lazy Way: My Lazy, Cheapskate Gardening is Environmentally Friendly

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5 Containers to Use Instead of Flower Pots for Your Veggies

Thrifty Containers for Growing Vegetables

Even though I have a fairly large yard, I do a bit of container gardening as well. Container gardening lets me grow flowers and vegetables in areas of the yard where normally I can't grow anything such as the steps or on the sidewalk. Containers also let me elevate vegetables that our family eats raw (such as salad greens and basil) which keeps them out of reach from our family pets who aren't terribly discerning where they do their business.

While oversized flower pots are the most common type of container for planting your vegetables, there other options too. Here are 5 containers that I use for planting container vegetables.

Old galvanized wash basins

If you have Grandma's leaky old wash basin still kicking around the house, these 10 gallon basins are ideal for growing vegetables such as carrots, radishes, and salad greens. The ones I use have cracks in the bottom which allow for drainage; basins that still hold water should have a dozen or so holes pierced into the base using a five penny nail and a hammer.

Old canning kettles

While Grandma's old copper canning kettle holds firewood in my living room, her old canning kettles made of galvanized steel or speckled enamel have also found new life in my garden for flowers and lettuce. Because some of these do have antique value if in excellent condition, I only use the kettles that no longer hold water for growing vegetables.

Watering cans

Cans that have rusted, lost their spout, or their handles are usually tossed in the trash. I reclaim these fun containers for growing herbs. Old watering cans look cute when arranged on tree stumps, staggered along the steps leading up to the front door, or nailed to the top of fence posts.

Kiddie swimming pool

Years ago when I lived in a mobile home park, the soil that surrounded our home looked too iffy for growing food crops. What I did instead was to buy a couple of $5 kiddie pools to use for growing garden veggies. Kiddie pools are great for square foot gardening plus can be elevated on saw horses to keep out the cats. Like the wash basins, these pools will also need holes punched in the base to avoid water log.

Old wire bike baskets

The increase in popularity of coconut basket liners opens up all kinds of possibilities for turning wire baskets, wire crates and other wire containers into attractive containers for gardening. I use coconut liners to turn Mom's old bike racks into herb baskets that can be hung from the side of my garden shed. 

For families watching costs, containers for container gardening doesn't have to cost a lot of money. As long as the container is deep enough, has drainage holes, and isn't made of harmful substances that can leach into the soil, you can pretty much turn just about anything into a container for vegetable gardening. Looking for more information about container  gardening <--- click here

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10 Handy Gardening Apps We Really Dig!

Your garden is looking promising. You are hoping for a bumper crop this year, but as you know, setbacks happen. You forget what you planted, plant at the wrong time or end up fighting an army of unidentified pests. You know what you need? A gardening app! Get a jump on your garden problems by downloading a few of these apps.

Garden Squared: A great garden begins with a good plan. Garden Squared is an app that helps you plan and track your garden from beginning to harvest. From square foot gardens, raised beds or patio container gardens, get the information you need to plant each plot.

Leafsnap: Forget what you planted? It happens! Use Leafsnap to identify a plant by its flower, leave or seeds. Snap a photo with your phone and submit to the app for instant results.

Garden Pro!: This little app currently costs $4, but it is a worthy investment! Garden Pro! Is a comprehensive reference app that helps newbie and experienced growers manage their gardens. Access an exhaustive list of veggies, flowers, and delectable herbs. Discover both the common name and botanical names and when the plant blooms. This app also gives you tips on water and light preferences.

Garden Compass Plant: Tired of losing plants to disease? You've got to try this app. Snap a photo and send it to app team. They'll diagnose your problem and provide you with a solution. Best of all Garden Compass Plant is free!

iGarden USA: Don't know when to plant in your climate zone? Don't leave the home improvement store without consulting this app. iGarden USA allows user to contribute too. You can suggest plants to other users in your planting zone and share pictures.

Garden Time Planner: Designed by Burpee, the Garden Time Planner is really a one-stop shop for gardeners. This app alerts gardeners, letting them know when to sow, when to transplant and when to expect to harvest vegetables and herbs, according to their garden region. The app generates a task list and it notifies the user when to sow or transplant next. Also in the app is a database of plants and handy links to how-to gardening videos.

iGrowit: This app has awesome graphics! Download iGrowit and get tips on preparation, planting and sowing and even tips on how to eat them. What's so great about this app? You can plug in your zip code and get detailed information about plants in your region. It's only .99!

Essential Garden Guide: Designed for the iPad, the Essential Garden Guide helps you learn the secrets of how to grow a gorgeous backyard garden. This app combines 15 years of contributions from knowledgeable sources including renowned agricultural institutions and extensions. This app is a wealth of great information for gardeners.

Gardening Toolkit: Enjoy hundreds of photos, look at lists of plants, get a watering guide and store your own photos. With the Gardening Toolkit, you'll always know, month by month what to plant, water and feed.

Rain Harvest: Wondering how much rain falls in your yard during a typical rain storm? You need this app! Rain Harvest is a rain harvesting calculator. Put this resource to use and determine when you need to water your garden to make up a rain deficit. 

there are some other articles about gardening apps, try use the search widget on the right hand side searching for gardening apps.

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Do Roll Out Seed Mats Really Work?

Have you ever seen those roll out seed mats in the department store? They contain seeds embedded in paper or fabric. Most of them are marketed as "instant flower gardens." Don't they seem too good to be true? Do they really work? Is it difficult to use them? Some gardeners might look down on this type of thing. Well, I'm not above trying them out. When I did, here's what I discovered.

They really do work.

I was renting a small house in the '90s. There were some bare spots near the front steps. One day, while window shopping, I came across a roll out seed mat, imbedded with marigolds. I decided to give it a try, since they were quite inexpensive. I took them home, followed the instructions and within just a few weeks, I had beautiful flowers covering those bare spots. However, I do have to say, there's more to it than just rolling and watering.

Tips and tricks for using seed mats:

You still need good soil.

Seed mats are not a miracle method. All seeds need nutrients to grow. Therefore, you'll still have to till up the soil below them and amend it as needed. Seed mats make for easier planting, however, the rest of the maintenance is the same.

They have to be kept moist.

The seeds in the mat need moisture to sprout, just like any other seed. If you bought them because you don't have time to water and weed, you'll be disappointed. It will be necessary to keep the seed mats moist until flowers reach maturity.

Seed mats work better with a thin layer of soil over them.

The directions don't tell you this. However, after you roll out your seed mats, it's best to cover them with a thin layer of fertile soil. This keeps the seeds from getting too much sun during and right after germination, when they are most fragile.

Beware of GMOs

If you're using vegetable seed mats, read the label carefully. If your seed mat doesn't specify that seeds are organic and GMO free, you may get more than you bargained for. Chemical fertilizers, pesticides and GMOs may be present.

A fun twist

Since my first experience with roll out flower seed mats, I've used them in numerous ways. They're not just for rolling out. You can cut pieces from the roll to scatter in the garden. You can also use pieces for container gardening. What a simple way to grow pots of flowers to brighten up your landscape!

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Raised Bed Preparation Tips for Optimum Success

Are you thinking of implementing raised beds in your garden? We have, for several years. I'm somewhat physically limited. Those raised beds make it possible for me to enjoy my favorite pastime without injury. Along the way, I've learned a few things about raised bed gardening that have made the process more productive and more enjoyable.

Location is vital

Planning a raised bed garden is no different than planning a conventional one in some respects. One big difference is that it's a lot harder to move a raised bed garden. You have to remove all the dirt, move the bed and prepare the ground underneath it every time. Therefore, placement is important.

If you're planting vegetables, your beds should receive at least 6 hours of sun per day. You'll also want your beds placed on high ground, for proper drainage. Knowing what you're planting helps too. Some vegetables require more shade than others. So, consider all factors before placing your beds. You don't want to move them.

Bed building

There are several ways to build garden beds. I've actually written a guide with some pictures to demonstrate the easiest method. As for the size, you'll want to be sure you can reach your plants while gardening. I've found the ideal width to be 4 feet. The length, is not as important. However, I do suggest you use a length that comes ready cut to save time, lumber and labor. You can usually find 12 inch wide boards in 8, 10 and 12 foot lengths. The 12 inch height is perfect for raised beds. If you'd like them taller, simply make them two boards high.

Preparing the ground

The first time we used raised beds, we made the mistake of putting plastic under them, to block weeds. We had a yard full of them. The beds did OK, but not spectacularly. Then, at the end of the season, all the tomatoes came down with a fungus. Plastic does not allow water to drain. So, what is the best method?

The best thing to do, when placing raised beds, is to remove a layer of sod where the bed will be placed. Then, dig and loosen the soil to a depth of about a foot. This allows for drainage. It also allows deep rooted plants to spread their roots naturally.

Enhancing raised beds

Once your raised beds are in place, you may want to enhance them. For instance, if you plan to plant lettuce, there will be times when you'll need a shade cover. You might want to add posts to the corners of the bed to secure a cover to. If your raised beds will contain vining plants, you could add some permanent trellis.

Soil tips

We've found that the best fertilizer by far is our own compost. However, when filling garden beds, we use a planter's mix from our local garden supply/greenhouse. A perfect raised bed planter's mix contains half soil, half compost. The soil quality will vary, depending on the greenhouse. When shopping for garden bed soil, look for loose, dark dirt that balls slightly, then crumbles. If it holds a ball permanently, it likely contains too much clay. If it doesn't ball at all, it doesn't have enough.

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Using a Hotbed to Get a Head Start on the Growing Season or Extend It

A hotbed allows gardeners to get a head start on the gardening season or extend it. The heated bottom promotes faster seed germination, so gardeners can start seeds earlier in the season. Cuttings and divisions will also take root faster in a hotbed environment. Hotbeds extend the gardening season in fall by adding weeks to the normal growing season. Learning to use a hotbed can be beneficial to all gardeners.

What Is a Hotbed

A hotbed is cold frame about 3 feet wide and 6 feet long that is 18 inches high in the back sloping to 12 inches high in the front. The main difference between a hotbed and cold frame is that a hot bed has a heat source to warm the soil. The boxes are generally made with rot-resistant wood or concrete blocks. The top is made of a sheet of glass, fiberglass or clear plastic, and is easy to raise for ventilation and lower to conserve heat.

Extending the Growing Season

In fall, a hotbed keeps temperatures warm enough to grow some plants during cold weather. These beds are often used to grow cool-season vegetables from seed to maturity out of season, when normal outdoors temperatures would not permit it. Hotbeds, when used in spring or fall, keep soil at 75 degrees F, which is ideal for seed germination and support growth of most plants.

The Best Location for a Hotbed

Even though hotbeds are generally heated, the best place for the beds is a sunny location with well-draining soil where the bed is protected from the wind. The slant of the roof should face south to accumulate heat. The bed also needs to be in an area close to an electrical and water source.

Seasonal Tips

Seedlings grown in a hotbed must be hardened off before planting in garden. Hardening off is the process of allowing the seedlings to slowly become acclimated to their new environment before planting them outdoors. To do so, gradually expose plants to the to open-air conditions during their last week in the hotbed. Gardeners also need to perform certain hotbed tasks each season.

• In spring, after the danger of frost has passed, gardeners can trans plant seedlings from the hotbed into the garden after hardening off. Spring is also time to harvest cool-season crops grown in hotbeds.
  
• In late winter, gardeners can sow annual flower and vegetable seeds in the hotbed so that seedlings are ready for the garden once the weather warms in spring. This is also the time to plant the seeds for cool-season vegetables that a gardener wishes to grow to maturity in the bed.
  
• In fall, gardeners can sow seeds for lettuce, spinach of other cool-season vegetables they wish to grow to maturity and harvest in spring.
  
• In winter, it may become necessary to use an insulating cover for the hotbed to conserve heat during extremely cold temperatures. Gardeners can use straw to cover the hotbed and prevent heat loss. Place straw on top and around the hotbed to avoid heat loss through the frame joints and prevent drafts.

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How to Make a Succulent Terrarium Out of a Used Candle Container

We've all been there: the last tendrils of smoke wisp from the end of a tired wick and (sigh) the candle finally extinguishes forever. Most people throw the candle out without a second thought. I was one of those people too, until I realized that the shape and size of a Yankee or Village Candle holder is perfect for an open terrarium for succulents! And believe me, you don't have to be an expert gardener to make this tiny ecosystem work.

How to recycle a Yankee Candle holder into a terrarium:

Step One: Clean

Make sure that the inside of the glass is perfectly clean and free of soot. Some gentle detergent and a sponge should do it!

Step Two: The Base

Because there are no drain holes in the bottom of the glass container, you must place small pebbles or rocks on the very bottom to act as drainage. I used pretty pink stones from Lowe's, but you can use gemstones, broken glass, or even rocks you find out in your driveway.

Step Three: The Charcoal

There needs to be a layer of broken charcoal above the rocks to help soak up the water. Remember that half used bag of charcoal from last summer's BBQ? Well, put it to good use by smashing up a few pieces in a plastic bag until they are grainy, and spreading a thin layer over your rocks.

Step Three: The Soil

What do plants need to grow in? Soil, of course! You can find a great mix at your local greenhouse or a chain store like Lowe's. I would recommend the Cactus blend if you are planting a succulent. Place a fair amount of soil over the charcoal layer, around an inch or so.

Step Four: The Plant

This is my favorite part! You can find a pre-grown succulent at any greenhouse or garden supplies store for around $4.00. Make sure it's small enough to fit into your candle container! Gently remove the plant from its original pot, making sure to leave the roots intact. Place it on the soil layer of your container, and then add soil around the plant until it is snugly embraced by dirt.

Step Five: The Toppings

After your little succulent is fixed into its new home, I like to add some sheet moss (again, inexpensive and easy to find at any garden store) over the top to give it a more natural feel. The moss can peek over the edge of the candle. You can decorate the top with tiny glass ladybugs or butterflies to make it extra beautiful!

To Care for Your Plant:

Follow the instructions that came with the original succulent, but keep in mind that generally speaking, succulents don't need a lot of watering! They actually live longer with under-watering than with over-watering, especially since your little ecosystem is perfect at holding moisture! And remember, don't stop at old candle holders! I have made terrariums out of mason jars and used sauce jars, and they always turn out adorable!

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Advice on Shading and Ventilating a Greenhouse

Greenhouse Shading and Ventilation Tips

Having a greenhouse allows you to start your garden seedlings early in the season. Large greenhouses can also be used to prolong the life of potted plants, or even allow you to maintain plants all year. Your greenhouse may be a simple plastic-covered shelf or an elaborate heated walk-in model. No matter what type you use, your greenhouse does need some shade and adequate ventilation.

Shading advice While you do want your plants to receive sunlight and warmth, your need to protect them from too much heat. Your shading needs will depend on your geographic area, the location of the greenhouse on your property and the types of plants you wish to grow. If you are located in the south, plan to achieve a shade density of 70 to 80 percent. Northern areas only need 40 to 60 percent shade density.
A tarp or fiberglass shield can be used to create the desired amount of shade. You may find that covering a portion of the top and one side of your greenhouse will provide adequate protection. Shade materials will work up to 40 percent more effectively, if they are installed on the outside of your greenhouse.

In addition, check the amount of sunlight on your greenhouse when the sun is the strongest. You can arrange your plants so that ones that are more sensitive to sunlight are sheltered by more sun-loving varieties. Placing a small greenhouse near natural shade sources will eliminate the need for any extra shade materials.

Sunlight by plant type Chrysanthemums and snapdragons like a large amount of sunlight. Lilies, begonias, and orchids prefer moderate sunlight. Ferns, dracaena and philodendron need more shade. If you are unsure of the correct amount of light, consult with a local nursery for the best advice.

Ventilation tips and advice Without adequate ventilation, you could end up with too much humidity built up inside your greenhouse. Small greenhouses can be difficult to ventilate. You may need to open the cover for a few hours a day to allow air to circulate. Some models will have a roll-up cover over a screen material for appropriate airflow.

Large models should have vent openings. You may even choose to install a fan to pull fresh air through. If you install a fan, it should be placed high on one wall with one or more louvered vents low on the opposite wall.

Consider misting your plants on occasion, instead of just watering them. This will help maintain the humidity levels. When your greenhouse has the right balance of shade, humidity and ventilation, it will provide the best environment for your plant's growth.

 

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Can I Grow Moringa in Vermiculite

Moringa (Moringa oleifera ) grows well in warm regions. This tropical and subtropical, semi-deciduous tree is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10 and flowers and fruits freely. The tree is slender, grows about 25 feet tall with feathery foliage and drooping branches, and it often is used as an ornamental specimen. Moringa tree leaves and roots are edible, and the root is often used as a substitute for horseradish. It is propagated by seeds, cuttings and air layering. Moringa does not grow well in heavy soil, claylike soil or vermiculite . Moringa roots rot in soggy soil.

Vermiculite and Its Uses

Vermiculite is a soilless mix that can be added to a growing medium to improve drainage. When used for horticultural purposes, it is a clean, odorless, non-toxic and sterile natural mineral. It does not rot, deteriorate or mold. Vermiculite is often mixed with composted pine bark or peat to promote faster root growth and to help anchor developing roots. Although vermiculite increases water and fertilizer retention of potting mixes, it is not well-suited for a Moringa tree, which does not grow well in wet soil.

Soil for Moringa

The Moringa tree needs a somewhat moisture-retentive growing medium that is not heavy. The tree will grow in poor soil, sandy soil and even depleted soil but does not tolerate wet roots. For that reason, loosen heavy soil by adding perlite, sand, peat moss or coconut coir. Amending the soil in this way allows the tree's roots to penetrate deeply in the soil and the soil to drain well.

Moringa's Taproots

Moringa tree has a single taproot that grows straight downward, like a carrot. The tree also develops small feeder roots , but does not develop branching roots. Plant a Moringa tree where its root has room to grow straight downward. If planting the tree in a container, use the deepest container you can find to allow plenty of room for the taproot.

Moringa Seed

Moringa seeds can be started in small pots with a loose, organic potting mix as the growing medium. Place the seeds about 1 inch deep in the soil, and cover them loosely with the soil; don't compact the soil. Water the pots' growing medium, and place the pots in a warm place with plenty of sunlight. The seeds sprout in about two weeks when their soil temperature is 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Water the soil daily to every other day, keeping it moist. After the trees reach 8 inches tall, transplant them into the ground or into larger pots.

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Plant Your Garden Earlier With These 4 Ideas

The standard planting advice that I give to my gardening clients is to wait until all danger of frost has passed before doing any spring planting. My clients find this advice hard to follow and so do I after the spring seed catalogs arrive and our green thumbs begin itching to dig in the dirt and grow something. The good news is there are a few ways to trick mother nature and plant our gardens earlier than the last predicted frost date so by the time spring arrives, we'll have a good 4-6 weeks of growing time already under our green thumbnail. Use these 4 ideas and plant your garden earlier.

Cloches

Cloches cover individual plants that are set out in the garden, raising the air temperature around the plant and protecting it from frost. Clear plastic gallon milk jugs make great recycled garden cloches; cut the bottom off the jugs and set them over plants. Mound a little soil around the bottoms to keep the jugs in place. On days with bright sun and temperatures above 50 degrees, remove the milk jug lid to ventilate the DIY cloche and prevent the garden plants from cooking. Cloches can also be purchased at most garden supply centers.

Containers

Plant seeds in containers, either temporarily or permanently, so you can harvest fresh garden vegetables early. Use containers than are easy to move so they can moved as needed for optimum sun exposure or when a late cold snap threatens their tender, green lives. Containers can be placed outside or indoors, depending on climate and how early you want to plant your garden. In some growing zones (like my southern 7b) it's possible to plant as early as January and begin harvesting fresh produce in late February.

Row Covers

Use a DIY or store bought row cover to get your garden off to an early start. Plant cool season vegetable seeds in garden soil and cover with row cover fabric that lays directly on the soil and warms it so seeds germinate quicker or create a row 'tent' with semi-circular pieces of wire and stretch the row cover fabric over the wire.

Cold Frame

Build or buy a cold frame and use it to house containers of seeds for quick germination and growth. A cold frame raises the soil and air temperature by several degrees and will get your garden growing early. A small, bottomless cold frame is portable and can be used on the back porch, garden or other sunny location.

Cool Season Vegetables

Grow a fresh salad by planting cool season vegetables like loose-leaf lettuce, spinach, chard, carrots, radishes, onions and garlic. Get a jump start on other cool season vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, peas and cabbage by planting them even earlier than usual.

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5 Tips for Planning a Low Water Vegetable Garden

Vegetable Gardening During a Drought

If you live in the western part of the United States like I do, drought conditions mean scaling back the amount of water we use, including what's used for our vegetable gardens. Conserving water in a vegetable garden is easy to do but does take a bit of advance planning. Here are some of the planning tips I'll be using to lower the water use in my gardens this year. 

Careful plant selection

Some vegetables require a lot more water than others which is why conserving water starts with selecting the right plants. I know from my own experience that food crops such as sweet corn, peas, winter squashes, broccoli, cauliflower, watermelons and certain tomato varieties use up a lot of water which is why I won't be planting them again. Herbs along with veggies such as Swiss Chard, peppers, legumes, Roma tomatoes, pear tomatoes, Cumshaw squash, summer squashes and bush beans have lower water needs and do well in my region.

Plant early

Even though the summer growing season begins June 1 in my neck of the woods, I always plant an early spring crop to take advantage of the moisture in the ground and the spring rains. Veggies such as spinach, lettuce, radishes and green onions can go into the ground as soon as the earth is thawed and will yield edible produce in 30-45 days. Heat loving veggies are started indoors as early as March 1 and are transplanted after the last spring frost. This early start means that they will have a well established root system by August and September when the drought conditions are the worst.

Plant flat and water wise

Furrow irrigation is something I learned to do on the farm and have always watered my veggies this way since it's the easiest. This type of irrigation system doesn't work when the water supply is low. Instead of a mix of furrows and mounds, I'll be planting flat and using a drip line system to bring water directly to the roots.

Closer rows

Last year, I started experimenting with denser plantings by planting veggies much closer than what's listed on the back of the packet. Closer rows makes better use of the water and provides shade which lowers evaporation.

Mulch

Mulch does more than keep down the weeds. It also reduces ground moisture evaporation and speeds up plant germination, especially in the northern climates where our growing season is short. Black plastic mulch works best for heat loving plants such as peppers and tomatoes. As far as the rest of the garden, I use organic mulches such as grass clippings and straw from the hen house once the soil temperatures have warmed up.

For families like ours who rely on vegetable gardens, drought conditions will limit the food we can grow. Planning ahead with careful vegetable selections and how the garden will be planted will make gardening possible even in a low water year.

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Windowsill Aquafarm

Growing a Simple Garden Year Round with Aqua Farming Techniques

Each year, the first crops to sprout from my garden are my lettuces. Red leaf, Romaine, Boston, and Butter Crunch begin to fill out and bring a sense of life to the patches of soil that laid fallow during the Winter. My girls sow their seeds, and we begin the tender warm-up to the full on production in the moths ahead. Yet once the warmer weather arrives, the lettuces tend to wilt back and bolt, and our attentions turn to the beans and emerging tomatoes. As we are unable to preserve our leafy veggies, we began looking for ways to keep our lettuce harvest viable throughout the season. This year, we found the solution with a windowsill aquafarm setup.

Basics of a Windowsill Aquafarm

Hydroponics and aquafarming are not a new concepts, but in the past these systems have relied on space-swallowing equipment that wouldn't properly fit into our home. However, a few years ago my sister was constructing miniature biospheres for her Beta fish, using water plants to both feed and clean up the organic waste. Nitrogen from fish waste is drawn up through the plant's roots, and the roots in turn produce food for the fish. We began talking, and after a time, discovered it would be just as viable to use garden vegetables and herbs as the plant material. The fish remains healthy without the addition of commercially produced fish food, and the plants can continue indoors without the harshness of a Summer heat. For a household use, we determined a three-gallon tank would be the perfect size.

Composition of the Aquafarm

We started with a three gallon tank with a plastic slip-on lid. I drilled a series of holes in the top of the lid to fit our recycled plastic planters, each of them quart-sized. In the middle of the arrangement, I placed a small water pump that drained right back into the tank after filtering through the growing medium. For this, we use coffee grounds - renewable, easily changed, and completely absent of chemicals. Each pot was a dedicated planting area, and for our first time out, my girls chose red leaf and butter crunch lettuces. Their smaller sizes, coupled with steady growth rate made them the perfect choice. In the tank itself, we adopted a single Beta fish, and added a few underwater features to provide structure and hiding places for when it felt stressed.

Aquafarm Harvesting

Lettuces should be trimmed from the outside in, meaning the leaves are taken from the exterior of the plant. It is possible to cut free the whole head and realize new growth, but this will stress the lettuce and eventually prompt it to stop producing. A few leaves at a time is much more manageable, and the plant will keep growing as long as you let it. Herbs act the same way, and a little trim here and there actually promotes growth. As a note, be wary of the amount of sunlight entering the tank, as an excess will promote algae growth. If this begins to happen, simply move your miniature farm tank until it stabilizes once more. Enjoy your December salad!

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Grow an Herb Garden in Ordinary Household Sponges

If you love fresh herbs but simply can't handle the mess of potting soil on your counters - or even worse, under your fingernails - you'll love this project. Growing herbs in ordinary household sponges - clean ones, of course - eliminates the need to for soil and provides you with fresh herbs all winter.

If you are struggling with the concept, don't feel bad. I'm an avid gardener and I didn't believe it either - until I saw the pictures of lush green herbs springing from an ordinary sponge. The trick of course it to keep the sponge wet, but you've probably figured that out on your own.

Sponges Some sources recommend that you use recycled sponges, but somehow this just doesn't set right to me. New sponges are inexpensive and you can be reasonably sure they are free of bacteria or contaminants that recycled sponges can hold. I personally prefer sea sponges, mainly because I like the natural look. You could, of course, choose brightly-colored kitchen sponges to brighten the décor. If that's your style - go ahead - I promise, I won't tell a soul.

Containers

Select a container for your herb garden. Plant pots, window trays or shallow serving dishes make good choices, but here again; it's totally up to you. If you want to grow herbs in grandma's old teapot - go ahead. As long as the container is waterproof and holds the sponge, there are no rules.

Preparations

Rinse the sponge thoroughly for several minutes to remove any residue in may contain. If you are using recycled sponges, soak them in boiling water for 15 minutes to kill any bacteria.

Place the sponge in your container. A snug fit works best and prevents accidental spilling. If necessary, cut your sponge to the shape of the container to get a good fit.

Water to saturate the sponge. A little water on the bottom of the container is fine, but more that one half inch of water should be poured off before planting your herb seeds.

Planting

Sprinkle your favorite herb seeds over the top of the sponge and press them into the sponge with your fingers. Most herbs have tiny seeds and easily penetrate the surface of the sponge. For larger seeds - like chives - push the seeds into the holes of the sponge until they are secure.

Cover the top of the container with plastic food wrap. Punch several holes in the plastic with the tip of a pencil to allow air to circulate and prevent excessive moisture buildup. Place the herb garden in a warm location until the seeds germinate.

Growing

Remove the cover once seedlings have emerged and place the herb garden in a sunny window. If light is limited, place them under a plant light or a fluorescent light. Herbs prefer bright light and suffer in shaded areas.

Keep the sponge moist at all times to prevent injury to your herb plants.

Harvesting

Begin harvesting fresh herbs when the plants are three to four inches tall. Harvesting leaves from the growing tip forces new foliage to form along the stem and creates a bushy plant.

So, go ahead. Enjoy the flavor of fresh herbs all winter without the mess and fuss of potting soil by growing your favorite herbs in sponges.

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20 Amazing and Unusual Uses for Fireplace Ash

Now that the weather is cold and my fireplace has been working overtime to heat up the house, we've been clearing away a gallon of ash from the firebox every morning. Instead of tossing all that great material into the garbage bin however, I've been using the wood ash around my home and gardens.

Back in the old days, wood ash had many practical uses around the farm. It was spread over fields as fertilizer, used in the making of soap, and help repel pests from vegetable gardens and fruit trees. These old fashioned uses for wood ash still make sense today and can help frugal families like ours save money. Here's just a few of the amazing household uses I've found for fireplace ash. Because wood ash can be harmful to the skin, always wear gloves when tackling one of these DIY projects.

Gardening. Tossing ash in the vegetable garden is one of the more common uses for wood ash. Since large quantities of ash can increase alkali levels in your garden beds, it's recommended to test the soil pH levels before dumping buckets of ash in your yard.

Some of the ways I've used ash in my yard:

--1/4 cup of ash planted with each tomato plant to boost production

--Spread around the vegetable beds to repel slugs and other pests

--Sprinkled around my fruit trees to keep bore worms at bay

--To control algae growth in ponds (1 tablespoon ash per 1000 gallons of water)

--Sprinkled in the chicken nesting boxes to prevent mites

Winter traction. Instead of buying commercial salts or sand to throw on icy sidewalks, try ash instead. Wood ash can also be thrown in front of and behind the tires in the winter to increase traction.

Removes baked-on food and grease. When mixed with water to form a paste, wood ash has a gritty texture that works like scouring powder. This gritty compound works great for removing baked on grease, burned on food, and tough stains.

--Removes brown, baked on grease from casserole dishes and glass bakeware

--Cleans the blackened undersides of pots and pans

--Breaks through the grease on the outside of a Weber grill

--Can be used to remove soot buildup from fireplace doors

--Cleans grease splatters found on the glass door of your oven

--Gently removes baked-on grease from a glass cook top stove

--Brings back the shine to stainless pots and pans

--Removes burned food from the inside of kettles

--Cuts through the grease found between the slots of a toaster.

Cleans up sticky label residual. Instead of reaching for mineral spirits or rubber cement thinner to remove glue from glass, try some wood ash instead. The grit quickly removes gummy residual from bottles, window glass, and old parking stickers from the windshields of the car.

White rings on furniture disappear. Most of us have heard the old trick of using toothpaste to remove white heat or water rings from furniture. What you might not know is that wood ash works just as well.

Removes lime scale. In areas with hard water, lime scale builds up quickly on exterior windows. Instead of using a lime solvent to remove the scale, reach for the wood ash instead. Wood ash applied with a damp rag cuts through the scale and will bring back the shine to your windows.

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How to Extend Your Garden Season Throughout Winter

While I am thankful to live in Georgia where winter comes late in the year and the minimum average temperature still is reasonable, there are many that don't have that luxury. Getting a longer growing season can be possible with just a few adjustments. In addition, it is a nice way to have your garden plot pulling double duty, with a spring bloom and a winter crop as well. Following these easy steps can have your garden working overtime for you. Tips will be included for both food crop gardens and flower gardens.

• Mark the Calendar - Whenever you go to plant your winter garden, keep in mind when your city's first hard frost is. You will need to pick plants and vegetables that reach their maturity date before this frost date. For example, for areas that have an October first freeze, crops that take 90 days to mature like the globe onion will need to be planted by July 15. With a 60 day maturity, turnips need to be in the ground by August 15.
• Make a Windbreak - According to Ed Hume Seeds, windbreaks can add 10 to 15 degrees F of heat to your garden. One way to do this is by cloches. They are portable greenhouses, using items like glass panes or plastic to keep the heat in.
• Mulch - The benefits of mulching your crop or garden are immeasurable. Mulching can insulate the plants and help the growth of the plant by masking weeds. If you live in an area like I do where the majority of the rain comes in the coldest part of the year, mulch will help keep your soil loss from erosion at a minimum. Mulches that will break down in the garden and help the soil include sawdust, bark, peat moss, and shredded newspaper.
• Rotate, Rotate, Rotate - Make sure that all your winter crops are not planted in the same spots as they were the year before. This keeps the nutrients from being continually drained on the site. It also keeps disease and insects down.
• Garden Journal - Keep track of what plants you tried and where you tried them. That way you know the following year, what worked and what didn't.

The winter season does not have to be time spent looking out the window, you can get out there and garden still. You can be working on improving the soil and location for the spring season, or be working on fine vegetable garden to feed your family through the cold months.

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Why You Need a Homemade Gardening Diary and How to Make One

It Can Help You Keep Track of Your Gardening Successes and Failures

Since you're reading this article, you're probably one of the many vegetable or flower gardeners across the United States. Many people enjoy gardening as a means of getting sunshine and exercise. But the bottom line is, how well your flowers or vegetables grow. Above all, the results are what counts when you're gardening.

If you could remember what specific methods you used, what products you used to combat weeds and diseases, or what fertilizers you used that made your flowers or vegetables grow beautifully, these facts can help you make your gardening experience just as successful next year. Or, maybe you want to remember some "Don't Do" things from this year's gardening experience. The best way to remember these facts is to record them in a homemade Gardening Diary.

A Homemade Gardening Diary can provide you with daily notes on many items that pertain to your flower or vegetable garden. Afterall, successful gardening

is more than just plopping some seeds or plants into the soil and expecting them grow. It involves proper location of the garden, fertilization, weed control, a watering schedule, and much more. Once those notes are recorded, you can look back on them later and reuse this helpful information.

A Homemade Gardening Diary can also be used to plan your gardens for the upcoming planting season as well. You can refer to your past daily notes and take them into consideration when you plan your flower or vegetable gardens.

So, now that you know WHY you need a diary to record daily notes from your growing activities in, how do you make a homemade one? The answer depends on your personal preference. Whether you prefer to use your personal computer to keep a diary on, or whether you prefer the traditional pen-and-paper way. Actually, carrying a small notebook and a pen with you to your flower or vegetable garden would be the handiest way to record notes on the spot. A spiral notebook or a ringed binder to keep the pages from your day's gardening activities would work well.

But, if you prefer to use your personal computer instead, a laptop is handy because it's portable and it can be used anywhere.

Basically, you'll need to mark the date and your notes for the day in your homemade Gardening Diary. An example of a day's page could be:

"May 16: The frost danger is finally over for our neck of the woods. So today I planted Peas and Leaf Lettuce in the south corner of the vegetable garden. I partially covered the lettuce up with a tarp to protect it from too much sun."

You can also write down the weather for that day, the phase the moon is in, (this can be especially helpful if you plant by the phases of the moon), the temperature, and the humidity, if you prefer details that relate to your flower or vegetable garden.

You can even add maps, graphs, and photos to your homemade Gardening Diary to make it even more detailed and personal.

Here are some more suggestions for other information you may want to include in your diary:

1. Which Flowers or Vegetables Grew Well, and Their Locations

2. Which Flowers or Vegetables Grew Poorly, and Their Locations

3. The Types of Soil In Your Yard

4. Problems You Had With Pests And Diseases

5. Methods Used for Eradicating Pests and Diseases, and The Results

6. Watering Schedules

7. Locations of Flower and Vegetable Gardens

8. Types of Fertilizers You Used

9. Best Methods For Tilling the Soil, Planting, Et Cetera

10. Worst Methods For Tilling the Soil, Planting, Et Cetera

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